Hyundai GDI

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This is totally going to be beating a dead horse and I apologize for that. I just cannot make up my mind!

Recently purchased a 2017 Sonata to replace the woefully uncomfortable 2017 Elantra I purchased in January.

Recommended oil is Quaker State in 5w20 (though 5w30 is acceptable). This engine is GDI and the first one I've owned. I had never given a thought to worrying about valve cleanliness because I exclusively run Top Tier gas and that handled the matter in the non-GDI engines I've owned. I still run TT, obviously. Though as we all know around here doesn't really matter what the gas is when it never touches the valves.

Will dropping the FF today and can't decide on an oil. I have SCOURED the web and the general consensus I seem to be able to find is that NOACK is the most important aspect for a GDI engine oil.

Historically I have always run M1 AFE but I can't decide if that's still the right choice for this engine.

I'm trying to decide between:

M1 AFE
M1 EP
QSUD
PPPurePlus (no access to PUPPurePlus in my area)

And now I also have to take into account fuel dilution and the thinning out thus should I run a 5w30 or an 0w20.

**I don't run 5w20 since I live in a colder region.
 
Personally, I would run a 5w-30 synthetic. All the oils you have listed are good. The M1 AFE is very good. What will be your oil change interval?
 
I haven’t decided on an OCI interval as of yet. I for once would like to run the recommended 7,500 interval. If I run a 30 weight I’ll for sure go the 7500. If I run an 0w20 I am leaning towards 6,000 to be on the safe side.
 
Who is saying NOACK is the most important aspect? Is it being repeated like the General RT43 is the best tire since the Goodyear Tiempo was discontinued?

Heres the deal folks, some oil is going to get on the valve stems and get baked on since there is no fuel to wash it away. The NOACK number doesn't matter
all that much. What oil you use doesn't matter all that much within the same class. Your either using a low, mid or full saps oil. If anything matters
and who knows if it actually does, look for something with a lower ash content.

And if you have a four cylinder, it's not that difficult to remove the intake and clean the valves. Not fun, but not impossible.
 
Most modern cars with direct injection have carbon build up issues on the intake valves. Just Google "GDI valve horoscope" and you will see what I mean. On a new car I would not worry but I might try and force the dealer into cleaning them right before the warranty ends if you keep the car that long.

I have owned a direct injected turbo car (mazdaspeed) and none of the products claiming to clean intake valve did anything. You just have to pull the intake manifold and media blast the valves ever 60k to keep them looking good and not all gunned up. Or you can block off the EGR but that's another can of worms.
 
You are lucky that hyndai accepts both 5w20 and 5w30.
From what i know u want low noack and low viscosity modifiers.
My recommendation wud be
Blend of pp 5w20 and 5w30 for warranty
Blend of pp5w20 and 10w30 outside warranty.
 
I have a 2008 GDI engine, 175,000miles and I use cheap synthetic oil and cheap gas. 6,000 mile OCI. Not one problem with the engine. Recently I had the intake manifold off to change the plugs and the valves looked fine.

I'm just saying I wouldn't worry about build up on the intake valves. Greatly exaggerated. I don't see many people showing up on this site with pictures and stories of their messed up GDI engines.
 
Since you sound like you care for the car you should look into seasonal oil changes to reduce gdi stress
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
I have a 2008 GDI engine, 175,000miles and I use cheap synthetic oil and cheap gas. 6,000 mile OCI. Not one problem with the engine. Recently I had the intake manifold off to change the plugs and the valves looked fine.

I'm just saying I wouldn't worry about build up on the intake valves. Greatly exaggerated. I don't see many people showing up on this site with pictures and stories of their messed up GDI engines.


Good to hear. My sis with chevy gdi will be happy to know this.
 
Just use 5w20. I dont understand why you say you dont use 5w20 since you live in a colder region, yet you are considering 5w30...what does that change? If they say 5w20 not sure what benefit would be obtained by using 5w30. I suppose 0w20 would work fine but since 5w20 is easily obtainable, id just use that. Im not sure the NOACK will be much of a difference between those oils, nor do I think it will make much difference.
 
I think heavier weight helps against fuel dilution.
So you got to weigh that in with cold weather.
Seasonal oil changes gives better choice selection.
 
For GDI Performance my dealership recommends Techron every 7,500 and MOA/EPR air induction every 30k (for $19.95 and $189.00). Not sure if that is really needed or is more for the dealership's bottom line.
 
Sae40 oil to be safe because of fuel dilution...

Acea A3/B4 if your region doesnt have sulphur free gasoline

Acea C3 if you can get it...

OCI 10.000kms....15.000kms MAX
 
I have a 2011 Kia Optima with that same 2.4 l GDI engine. I use both 5W20 and 5W30 in it. It has 120000 km on it and is running strong. I installed a catch can when I first purchased the vehicle. Has it helped? I would like to think so as I get about a quarter liter of crud at the end of my 10,000 km oil changes.
 
I know too many people that have DI cars with significant mileage on them to buy into the blanket statements made about valve coking, walnut blasting, massive fuel dilution and similar. Not to say it doesn't happen...but that hasn't been their experience or mine.

I own a five year old Hyundai GDI vehicle where I use TT gas, Techron about every 10K miles ( PEA DOES work to some extent in DI applications ), and either 5w-20 or 5w-30 PP or QSUD. I typically change the oil at or around 5-6K miles. The people who whine about wasting good oil at 5K miles would probably be the same people to whine about fuel dilution at 7-8K miles, so take it for what it's worth. Things like your application, climate, and driving habits might give you something else...the point being that DI is not a monolithic block of technology where everyone will experience the same thing.

My car exhibits the same performance and mileage it had when new and I'm not anticipating having to blast the valves any time soon. I know two people with DI cars with well over 100K miles that have had zero valve issues and no significant fuel dilution - both had UOAs done. Anecdotal to be sure, but nonetheless likely representative of a wider reality.
 
Have a 2015 Kia Optima 2.4L GDI and I went PUP 5W-30 with 7500mi/1yr OCIs. Chose synthetic for extended (> 5Kmi) OCIs and 5W30 for fuel dilution sake.
 
I have 2 Hyundai Sonatas with a 2.0 Turbo GDI and 2.4 GDI. Have no issues with Fuel into the Oil. I run Top Tier Costco or Shell 93 Octane Premium. I use Gumout Regane with PEA every 5,000 Mile.

For Oil, I was using Castrol of Mobile 1 0W-40 in the Turbo & 5W-30 in the 2.4. I have switched to Penngrade Select 5W-30 as I can get it below cost. If it is just a 2.4 GDI, then run 5W-30 any good Synthetic and Premium Top Tier Gas with some sort of Fuel System Cleaner every 5K to 7K.

I have been changing the 2.0T & 2.4 every 5K to 6K. I may try to go the 7.5K for the 2.4 the next Oil Change. But these are really good engines and I think any good 5W-30 Full Synthetic will be just fine. The biggest thing I noticed is they both run much more smooth and better when I run a Top Tier Premium gas in them.
 
I only use 5w30 and 10w30 in my Sonata. 0w20 is not an acceptable weight according to the owner's manual.

I had to add 1/2 a quart at 3,000 miles on Pennzoil Ultra but now with Mobil 1 I haven't had to add anything. I'll do 7,500 miles on this OCI.

Here's a UOA for my Sonata:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4430498/Pennzoil_Ultra_5w30_6,377_15'_#Post4430498
 
Learning from what I know from a couple of hot rotary screw air compressors I run, I would be going with a group 5 Ester based oil (POE) and not a (PAO) group 4 that can't take the heat and leaves varnishing products behind. There are a couple but I use Redline for my ATF so I would start there myself. Not saying that is the answer, but that is the direction were I would go.

Back in 2014 I had that exact scenario or choice to make... 2013 1.8 liter Hyundai Elantra GT and save $$$ on a non-current or a 2014 2.0 GDI and the main deciding factor was the direct injected valve crud issue. I did not want to deal with it later. Luckily when I took my wife's GT and she got a lease return Rav4 is the Rav4 did not have a DI motor thank God. Toyota/Lexus has appeared (time will tell) solved the problem with a secondary injector up stream of the valve to wash it. Thay is only on the trucks a few Lexus motors as of this posting.

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