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Hyundai GDI #4486357
08/12/17 07:22 AM
08/12/17 07:22 AM
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,002
Canton, Ohio
Throt Offline OP
Throt  Offline OP
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,002
Canton, Ohio
This is totally going to be beating a dead horse and I apologize for that. I just cannot make up my mind!

Recently purchased a 2017 Sonata to replace the woefully uncomfortable 2017 Elantra I purchased in January.

Recommended oil is Quaker State in 5w20 (though 5w30 is acceptable). This engine is GDI and the first one I've owned. I had never given a thought to worrying about valve cleanliness because I exclusively run Top Tier gas and that handled the matter in the non-GDI engines I've owned. I still run TT, obviously. Though as we all know around here doesn't really matter what the gas is when it never touches the valves.

Will dropping the FF today and can't decide on an oil. I have SCOURED the web and the general consensus I seem to be able to find is that NOACK is the most important aspect for a GDI engine oil.

Historically I have always run M1 AFE but I can't decide if that's still the right choice for this engine.

I'm trying to decide between:

M1 AFE
M1 EP
QSUD
PPPurePlus (no access to PUPPurePlus in my area)

And now I also have to take into account fuel dilution and the thinning out thus should I run a 5w30 or an 0w20.

**I don't run 5w20 since I live in a colder region.


'18 Honda Accord Touring, 1.5T, Factory Fill/Filter
'17 Elantra, 2.0L, 22,500, QS Ult. 0w20 w/ FU, hers (lease)
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486368
08/12/17 07:32 AM
08/12/17 07:32 AM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 6,506
...
PimTac Offline
PimTac  Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 6,506
...
Personally, I would run a 5w-30 synthetic. All the oils you have listed are good. The M1 AFE is very good. What will be your oil change interval?


Cannot see signatures any longer so it doesn’t matter.
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486381
08/12/17 07:47 AM
08/12/17 07:47 AM
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,002
Canton, Ohio
Throt Offline OP
Throt  Offline OP
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,002
Canton, Ohio
I haven’t decided on an OCI interval as of yet. I for once would like to run the recommended 7,500 interval. If I run a 30 weight I’ll for sure go the 7500. If I run an 0w20 I am leaning towards 6,000 to be on the safe side.


'18 Honda Accord Touring, 1.5T, Factory Fill/Filter
'17 Elantra, 2.0L, 22,500, QS Ult. 0w20 w/ FU, hers (lease)
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486386
08/12/17 07:56 AM
08/12/17 07:56 AM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,034
The Midwest
skyactiv Offline
skyactiv  Offline
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,034
The Midwest
Who is saying NOACK is the most important aspect? Is it being repeated like the General RT43 is the best tire since the Goodyear Tiempo was discontinued?

Heres the deal folks, some oil is going to get on the valve stems and get baked on since there is no fuel to wash it away. The NOACK number doesn't matter
all that much. What oil you use doesn't matter all that much within the same class. Your either using a low, mid or full saps oil. If anything matters
and who knows if it actually does, look for something with a lower ash content.

And if you have a four cylinder, it's not that difficult to remove the intake and clean the valves. Not fun, but not impossible.


Wife: 15' Audi A4 quattro 6 speed manual
Me: 13' VW GTI 3 door 6 speed manual
Wanted: 2019 Ford Ranger
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486388
08/12/17 07:58 AM
08/12/17 07:58 AM
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 524
Fairfax, VA
TinyVoices Offline
TinyVoices  Offline
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 524
Fairfax, VA
Most modern cars with direct injection have carbon build up issues on the intake valves. Just Google "GDI valve horoscope" and you will see what I mean. On a new car I would not worry but I might try and force the dealer into cleaning them right before the warranty ends if you keep the car that long.

I have owned a direct injected turbo car (mazdaspeed) and none of the products claiming to clean intake valve did anything. You just have to pull the intake manifold and media blast the valves ever 60k to keep them looking good and not all gunned up. Or you can block off the EGR but that's another can of worms.


2010 Mazda RX8 Sport - 37k miles - ????
2006 Toyota Matrix XR AWD (Wife) - 130k miles - Valvoline Max Life 5w30
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486400
08/12/17 08:18 AM
08/12/17 08:18 AM
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 682
il usa
merconvvv Offline
merconvvv  Offline
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 682
il usa
You are lucky that hyndai accepts both 5w20 and 5w30.
From what i know u want low noack and low viscosity modifiers.
My recommendation wud be
Blend of pp 5w20 and 5w30 for warranty
Blend of pp5w20 and 10w30 outside warranty.


1988 Mazda RX7 na PP 10w30 Noack 4.7
1994 Chrysler Concorde 3.3
1999 Ford Expedition 4.6 QSUD 10W30 NOACK 5.0
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486404
08/12/17 08:29 AM
08/12/17 08:29 AM
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,489
Toronto Canada
WobblyElvis Offline
WobblyElvis  Offline
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,489
Toronto Canada
I have a 2008 GDI engine, 175,000miles and I use cheap synthetic oil and cheap gas. 6,000 mile OCI. Not one problem with the engine. Recently I had the intake manifold off to change the plugs and the valves looked fine.

I'm just saying I wouldn't worry about build up on the intake valves. Greatly exaggerated. I don't see many people showing up on this site with pictures and stories of their messed up GDI engines.

Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486407
08/12/17 08:31 AM
08/12/17 08:31 AM
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 682
il usa
merconvvv Offline
merconvvv  Offline
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 682
il usa
Since you sound like you care for the car you should look into seasonal oil changes to reduce gdi stress smile


1988 Mazda RX7 na PP 10w30 Noack 4.7
1994 Chrysler Concorde 3.3
1999 Ford Expedition 4.6 QSUD 10W30 NOACK 5.0
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: WobblyElvis] #4486408
08/12/17 08:33 AM
08/12/17 08:33 AM
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 682
il usa
merconvvv Offline
merconvvv  Offline
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 682
il usa
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
I have a 2008 GDI engine, 175,000miles and I use cheap synthetic oil and cheap gas. 6,000 mile OCI. Not one problem with the engine. Recently I had the intake manifold off to change the plugs and the valves looked fine.

I'm just saying I wouldn't worry about build up on the intake valves. Greatly exaggerated. I don't see many people showing up on this site with pictures and stories of their messed up GDI engines.


Good to hear. My sis with chevy gdi will be happy to know this.


1988 Mazda RX7 na PP 10w30 Noack 4.7
1994 Chrysler Concorde 3.3
1999 Ford Expedition 4.6 QSUD 10W30 NOACK 5.0
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486443
08/12/17 08:59 AM
08/12/17 08:59 AM
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,970
MTL, CANADA
Rolla07 Offline
Rolla07  Offline
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,970
MTL, CANADA
Just use 5w20. I dont understand why you say you dont use 5w20 since you live in a colder region, yet you are considering 5w30...what does that change? If they say 5w20 not sure what benefit would be obtained by using 5w30. I suppose 0w20 would work fine but since 5w20 is easily obtainable, id just use that. Im not sure the NOACK will be much of a difference between those oils, nor do I think it will make much difference.


2007 Corolla Red Pearl 155k miles
PP 0w20 & ST 4967

Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486450
08/12/17 09:09 AM
08/12/17 09:09 AM
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 682
il usa
merconvvv Offline
merconvvv  Offline
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 682
il usa
I think heavier weight helps against fuel dilution.
So you got to weigh that in with cold weather.
Seasonal oil changes gives better choice selection.


1988 Mazda RX7 na PP 10w30 Noack 4.7
1994 Chrysler Concorde 3.3
1999 Ford Expedition 4.6 QSUD 10W30 NOACK 5.0
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486473
08/12/17 10:20 AM
08/12/17 10:20 AM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
St. Louis
MONKEYMAN Offline
MONKEYMAN  Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
St. Louis
For GDI Performance my dealership recommends Techron every 7,500 and MOA/EPR air induction every 30k (for $19.95 and $189.00). Not sure if that is really needed or is more for the dealership's bottom line.


Truth alone triumphs, not untruth.

2017 Elantra SE
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486479
08/12/17 10:36 AM
08/12/17 10:36 AM
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,359
Slovenia EU
Kamele0N Offline
Kamele0N  Offline
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,359
Slovenia EU
Sae40 oil to be safe because of fuel dilution...

Acea A3/B4 if your region doesnt have sulphur free gasoline

Acea C3 if you can get it...

OCI 10.000kms....15.000kms MAX


2008 Toyota Yaris 1ND-TV 1.4 D4-D Elf FullTech FE 5w30
1997 Toyota Landcruiser KZJ95 3.0 TD Shell Rimula R6M 10w40
Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486484
08/12/17 10:44 AM
08/12/17 10:44 AM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 526
Chatham, Ontario, Canada
cb450sc Offline
cb450sc  Offline
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 526
Chatham, Ontario, Canada
I have a 2011 Kia Optima with that same 2.4 l GDI engine. I use both 5W20 and 5W30 in it. It has 120000 km on it and is running strong. I installed a catch can when I first purchased the vehicle. Has it helped? I would like to think so as I get about a quarter liter of crud at the end of my 10,000 km oil changes.

Re: Hyundai GDI [Re: Throt] #4486498
08/12/17 11:13 AM
08/12/17 11:13 AM
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,296
California
Vuflanovsky Offline
Vuflanovsky  Offline
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,296
California
I know too many people that have DI cars with significant mileage on them to buy into the blanket statements made about valve coking, walnut blasting, massive fuel dilution and similar. Not to say it doesn't happen...but that hasn't been their experience or mine.

I own a five year old Hyundai GDI vehicle where I use TT gas, Techron about every 10K miles ( PEA DOES work to some extent in DI applications ), and either 5w-20 or 5w-30 PP or QSUD. I typically change the oil at or around 5-6K miles. The people who whine about wasting good oil at 5K miles would probably be the same people to whine about fuel dilution at 7-8K miles, so take it for what it's worth. Things like your application, climate, and driving habits might give you something else...the point being that DI is not a monolithic block of technology where everyone will experience the same thing.

My car exhibits the same performance and mileage it had when new and I'm not anticipating having to blast the valves any time soon. I know two people with DI cars with well over 100K miles that have had zero valve issues and no significant fuel dilution - both had UOAs done. Anecdotal to be sure, but nonetheless likely representative of a wider reality.

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