Amsoil ATF, 60K, 04 Duramax TCase

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First OCI since installing the transfer case pump upgrade kit from Merchant.

Make/Model: GM Transfer Case
Vehicle: 2004 Chevy 2500HD

Code:


OIL Ams ATF Ams ATF Maxlife

MILES IN USE 60,000 48,337 49.981

MILES 208,629 148,629 99,996

SAMPLE TAKEN 7/12/17 8/14/13 7/19/11



ALUMINUM 21 12 23

CHROMIUM 1 0 0

IRON 138 57 89

COPPER 39 38 50

LEAD 67 39 84

TIN 1 0 0

MOLYBDENUM 0 0 1

NICKEL 7 3 9

MANGANESE 14 28 37

SILVER 0 1 0

TITANIUM 0 0 0

POTASSIUM 2 3 2

BORON 230 261 109

SILICON 76 8 14

SODIUM 6 8 10

CALCIUM 231 260 271

MAGNESIUM 303 131 246

PHOSPHORUS 542 614 328

ZINC 8 6 21

BARIUM 0 0 1



SUS @ 210 52.4 49.8 44.9

cSt @ 100 7.99 7.21 5.68

FLASHPOINT 460 455 385

WATER % 0.0 0.0 0.0

INSOLUBLES % TR 0.1 0.2

TAN 2.8 1.9


Blackstone Comments:
We think this is about the longest you'll want to run between changes with this transfer case. Iron isn't high compared to averages, but the wear rate is showing a substantial increase in this report relative to the previous sample. The viscosity also tested a little thick, which can happen during extended oil runs. Insolubles are better though at just a trace, so oxidized solids aren't excessive this time. The TAN shows more acidity at 2.8, but that is not overly acidic in our opinion. Stay around 60K miles for the next interval for a good comparison to this report.
 
How many miles is the recommended interval for the T-case? How long does Amsoil say to run the fluid?
 
I'm not sure on the manufacturer recommendation for service interval, I'll take a look and see what I can find. I've done 30K on past vehicles before I started doing UOA with samples.

The product line is coded as ATF from Amsoil, it's their multi-vehicle transmission line (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/tr.../?code=ATFQT-EA).

SERVICE LIFE
Normal Service: Follow the vehicle manufacturer's normal-service drain interval.

Severe Service: Double the vehicle manufacturer's severe-service drain interval.

Change at the vehicle manufacturer's recommended drain interval outside U.S. and Canada.
 
Ok just found it in the manual. 50K is the OEM recommendation for transfer case fluid change.
 
I don't have enough data on this piece of equipment to comment about ranges and trends. Too few people take UOAs on these. Wish I could help you more, especially since I also have one in my barn! I am debating on when to change lube; approaching 50k miles total vehicle, but only 40k since I did my pump-rub elimination kit at 10k. I'm running Mobil 1 ATF in mine.

The only thing I can say about this UOA you've posted is that the wear rate just about doubled. How much of that is due to the extra 10k miles we don't know. I suspect some of it is due to the rework maybe? I've not done the M/A piece, but I've done two others using the "plate" style upgrade. But it's an easy remove/replace; I don't know why that would make Fe jump up as it has here.





On a completely unrelated note, dhellman12, have you ever had to deal with an oil leak at the rear of the engine block, suspected to be from the turbo oil drain return line? It looks like a nightmare to get to. Either pull the cab or pull the tranny to make it "easier" (as if doing either of those could be called easy in the first place .....)
 
I was thinking the same thing regarding the kit and the 2x wear, not sure why/how that could be related. Guess I'll know more after another 60K run.

So far I have not had to deal with an oil leak on the Duramax, so can't really help you on that one. Pulling the cab or tranny sure doesn't sound like fun to me. I know Merchant usually has some good how-to videos on some of the more common dmax issues, not sure they have anything to help with this one though. Good luck with it.

Did mean to ask if you've done any after market tuning on yours? I have just the standard Hypertech tune on my truck today, but was wondering if it would be worth trying to find someone who could do a more customized tune for my truck and bolt-ons. Even if I did go that route, finding someone I could trust would be another challenge...
 
No sir, my truck is bone stock in terms of performance enhancements.
I don't begrudge anyone who wants more power or economy; some of the tuners are very decent.
But I've been plenty happy with the torque and economy my truck has from stock, so I've never been interested in getting any power upgrades.

I have what I consider to be reliability enhancements:
pump rub eliminator kit (plate style)
power steering fluid cooler
rear diff cover fins for cooling
tranny cooler inverted
PCV reroute
EGT gauge (with no tuner, I didn't "need" it; it was a toy I wanted).



Regarding the EGT gauge - there was a lot of debate several years ago about how much heat the stock Dmax was putting out, and how that might affect the pistons, etc. GM's official statement at the time was that the Dmax (the LBZ, which is what I have) can take 1350 degF as a pre-turbo temp, as a sustained heat cycle. IOW - it can run at that temp all day long and not melt things. But guys with tuners are obviously getting above that. So as a baseline, I wanted to know what the "real" stock tune cycles would do. Pulling our RV out west in summer, we went over the Rockies in CO and all the valleys and canyons of UT and AZ and back up. There were times when I had the throttle pinned to the floor for minutes on end. I will pulling the RV uphill and passing big-rigs like they were standing still. And yet, the pyrometer never showed anything greater than 1320F at WOT. I guess the GM engineers did a good job of controlling the fuel flow and heat management after all! Now, because I've convinced myself the stock tune will never exceed the temp limits, I just ignore the gauge; it's a device that has no real value any longer for me, but taking it out really doesn't make things any better, so I just leave it there. If you are going to run a tuner, it is an absolutely necessity if you ask me. Some tuner brands (Banks is one I can think of) will assure you that their tunes don't exceed safe limits, but I think you have to use a pyro gauge in-line so that their programming can "track" the EGT and know when to back off? I cannot assure you of that; it's just something that I would be VERY cautious about prior to running a tune. The number one concern about any tuner I have is EGTs and melting pistons. As long as you can assure it's not happening, that's great! I've just never been unhappy with the stock tune; the torque and economy are more than enough for me.


Another side note -
Check under your truck for corrosion! My truck has been absolutely ravaged by the salt/water of the mid-west. So bad that I've had to replace my brake lines, tranny lines, fuel lines, fuel cooler and hydroboost pressure lines. Also, the cast iron metal of my AAM rear axle has rusted and flaked off so badly that about 50% of the material is gone in some areas! I am not exaggerating; I have pictures to prove it! YIKES!
 
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