lubegard heavy duty engine protectant 32 oz.

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question. will adding lubegard hd eng protectant. i thank its the bio formula? into a 2008 f-150, 7qt sump, calling for 5w20 oil.
will it raise the oil thickness or thin it down????
it has good reviews just dont know about the visc>

thanks any info is appreciated.
 
ok. you add it first... then tell me what happened.
smile.gif
 
TheKracken and I were both on this thread I started:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...es?#Post4472170

I was disappointed it did not develop more discussion, it seems a point of little interest now. That is in comparison to much more vigorous discussions I found on the subject back in '03 and '06 on esters as additives. I have done hours of research on this and I think he has too (TheKracken). Molakule weighed in with some science in the thread above (and the old ones years ago), and apparently as far as we (the sea monster and I) are concerned, it's worth checkin' out!

Based on that, I also ordered a quart last night. Heck, at $15/qt delivered vs. $60/24 ozs delivered for AutoRX, it was kinda a no-brainer to give it a try.

I also don't know the viscosity, but at the recommended dosages, it shouldn't matter. On my vehicle, I'm going to do (yet another) kerosene flush, then (yest another) piston soak with ATF and acetone overnight. Then a second round of the above. Then a another kerosene flush. Then an oil rinse and dump. New full synthetic filter (already running them a while), and M1 0W-40 and Lubegard bio/tech. I'm trying to clear stuck oil rings and drain holes.

I've done piston soaks and kerosene flushes in the past with measurable results. But they regress after a few thousand miles because of the bad ring and drain hole design on the engine. I'm willing to try this as a final effort before having to pull the engine fully out to drill more piston drain holes in the oil ring grooves.

Folks who say "a good oil has all you need in it" without fulling eliciting the situation clearly have no clue and don't understand that some people wrestle with engineering defects that even a great oil can't uniformly address. But it's a good litmus test of who to put on your "block" list to not see their puffy pontifications again! tig1 earned that in my book for his hit-and-run bloviating in the above linked thread.
 
Originally Posted By: Oro_O

Based on that, I also ordered a quart last night. Heck, at $15/qt delivered vs. $60/24 ozs delivered for AutoRX, it was kinda a no-brainer to give it a try.



I've used it on and off for a lot of years, and found it to be a good product. Where are you getting it for $15/ qt. delivered? Can you post it or PM me a link. We have a potential test mule for it. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
For al, the effort youve gone to it would have been just as easy to put new pistons in.


Parsing that discordant response, I'd say "No," the modest efforts I've taken and the measurable positive results have been WELL WORTH not pulling an engine. And nothing about this issue requires new pistons at all. I get the impression you really don't know the pain, expense, and effort that takes vs other approaches.
 
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