M1 AFE 0w20, 4634mi OCI, 14762mi 2017 Mazda 6

[SF0059]

First UOA from my Mazda 6 and the 2.5 doesn't fail to impress. The engine is mostly driven on highways and open back roads. I could extend the OCI to 7500mi and the warranty would be fine. However, I am rotating the OEM tires every 5k to make them last as long as possible, so it is just easier to do everything at 5k. Here is the report.

 

[tig1]

Is the SkActive a turbo? Looks good but I certainly would not use the Moly additive. M1 uses Tri Nuclear Moly and the additive may create more problems than the cure. M1 0-20 AFE is plenty capable of protecting your engine for hundreds of Ks of miles. Thanks for posting.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Just playing devils advocate:

Looks like M1 EP and 10K OCI would be better here. Or just rotate at 7500 Miles.

there is waste in this plan given the "mostly highway miles" which are easy on the OCI.

 

[oil_film_movies]

I'm wondering if the Ceratec did anything at all for wear, since you just equaled the Universal Average (per 1k miles) for iron. It could have reduced friction in non-hydrodynamic regions of the engine for all anybody knows.
A well formulated oil like the ones you're using don't need it.

Insolubles was low. Was that a Fram Ultra oil filter you used, like in your Odyssey?

 

[SF0059]

Hey Guys, thanks for the feedback.

@tig1 The 2.5 is NA. The moly was to more closely duplicate Mazda's OEM Syn w/moly. I will say this about it... since I changed the oil and didn't put Ceratec in I am down 1.5mpg on the highway. Anecdotal at best, but I'll be interest to see what happens when I put it back. Also, because my OCI is so short, I'm running whatever name-brand 0w20 is on rollback at Walmart. Over the first 3 changes it has received PP, M1 and now Castrol. I'm not too concerned by tri-nuc moly issues, especially since I will only be running M1 sporadically.

@ARCOGraphite, I would absolutely run a 10k OCI if I could under warranty. I was pushing up to 14k on M1EP on my RAV4 when I sold it. The maximum allowable interval according to Mazda is 7500. I agree it is a bit of a waste to change it at 5k, but when I find the time to rotate the tires I just do the oil as well. Alternating service schedules is for guys who have more time than I have right now. However, you better believe I will be extending the OCI when the warranty is up!

@oil_film_movies, I am using the OEM 1WPE-14-302 filter, presumably made by Denso. I have a dissection of it and I was impressed with its construction. here.

 

[tig1]

Perhaps the loss in MPG is more because you switched from M1 0-20AFE to Castrol. M1 touts that 0-20AFE will produce .5-2.5 MPG gain. Real numbers or not that seems to fall into the ballpark for your 1.5 MPG loss. Also I would only do UOAs after two OCs in a row with the same oil.

 

[bigt61]

Nice post - I too would just extend the OCI & rotation to 7500 miles. Highway miles are easy on tires too. Skip the Ceratec IMO - it's a new car, you don't need to "engineer" a special oil.

 

[BrewCityR]

7.11 cSt .... you should be getting 45 mpg

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Perhaps the loss in MPG is more because you switched from M1 0-20AFE to Castrol. M1 touts that 0-20AFE will produce .5-2.5 MPG gain. Real numbers or not that seems to fall into the ballpark for your 1.5 MPG loss. Also I would only do UOAs after two OCs in a row with the same oil.

No, you misunderstand that the claimed 0.2% to 2.3% MPG advantage with the AFE oils are compared to a higher viscosity oil. That means comparing a 0w20 to a 5w30 with naturally greater hydrodynamic drag. The friction modifiers in the 0w20 and 0w30 oils are nothing special. It does help during warmup to have the "0w" rating, but many other oils have 0w.

Mobil probably sells a lot of the AFE flavor by confusing people exactly as you are. I think its intentional, since most people won't understand or read the fine print, & Mobil marketers know that.

Mobil's statement: "Low viscosity, advanced full synthetic formula
Helps increase engine efficiency and improve fuel economy, based on 0.2-2.3 percent potential fuel economy improvement obtained by switching from higher viscosity oils to a 0W-20 or 0W-30 grade. Actual savings are dependent upon vehicle/engine type, outside temperature, driving conditions and your current motor oil viscosity."

 

[Eddie]

Impressive low fuel in oil for the DI SkyActiv engine. Mazda seems to have solved the fuel dilution issue. Agree with moving to 7,500 mile OCE & rotation. Ed

 

[LotI]

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Originally Posted By: tig1
Perhaps the loss in MPG is more because you switched from M1 0-20AFE to Castrol. M1 touts that 0-20AFE will produce .5-2.5 MPG gain. Real numbers or not that seems to fall into the ballpark for your 1.5 MPG loss. Also I would only do UOAs after two OCs in a row with the same oil.

No, you misunderstand that the claimed 0.2% to 2.3% MPG advantage with the AFE oils are compared to a higher viscosity oil. That means comparing a 0w20 to a 5w30 with naturally greater hydrodynamic drag. The friction modifiers in the 0w20 and 0w30 oils are nothing special. It does help during warmup to have the "0w" rating, but many other oils have 0w.

Mobil probably sells a lot of the AFE flavor by confusing people exactly as you are. I think its intentional, since most people won't understand or read the fine print, & Mobil marketers know that.

Mobil's statement: "Low viscosity, advanced full synthetic formula
Helps increase engine efficiency and improve fuel economy, based on 0.2-2.3 percent potential fuel economy improvement obtained by switching from higher viscosity oils to a 0W-20 or 0W-30 grade. Actual savings are dependent upon vehicle/engine type, outside temperature, driving conditions and your current motor oil viscosity."

Remember that tig1 works for Mobil, which he will deny.

 

[LotI]

Originally Posted By: BrewCityR
7.11 cSt .... you should be getting 45 mpg

He's close to 35. SF0059 Fuelly

I'm doing a little better. Ti Flash

The tires are notorious for getting noisy with uneven wear so keeping them rotated regularly will keep the [censored] Dunlops happy for a while longer. I'm planning on doing the same.

 

[SF0059]

Originally Posted By: LotI
Originally Posted By: BrewCityR
7.11 cSt .... you should be getting 45 mpg

He's close to 35. SF0059 Fuelly

I'm doing a little better. Ti Flash

The tires are notorious for getting noisy with uneven wear so keeping them rotated regularly will keep the [censored] Dunlops happy for a while longer. I'm planning on doing the same.


Wow, dude, you are crushing the mpg game! Are you driving mostly highway?

I am at a little bit of a disadvantage being a manual transmission. Also, my whole commute is hills. If anyone is familiar with Route 29 from Lynchburg to Charlottesville, you know what I am talking about.

Mazda really didn't think through the MT mapping as well as the AT. The fuel consumption goes up significantly if you drive above 64-65 mph. I'm talking a 3-4 mpg hit if you drive 68-69. Eventually I'm going to have Orange Virus remap the ECU to be more conservative cruising in overdrive. According to OV, the ECU runs super aggressive during cruising.

Lastly, the tires. Those Dunlops have a BAD reputation. So far they have been wearing OK, but you really need to keep them at a 5k rotation or they will get all kinds of wonky. However, at 5k I'm getting really good, even wear.

 

[SF0059]

I really find it amusing that near perfect wear numbers become a springboard for advising against additives. Only on BITOG!

I will stir the pot some more... I kept the factory fill for 5k miles and also purposely drove it pretty aggressively during that break-in period. Flame suit on

...

That being said, great discussion, guys. I appreciate everyone weighing in!

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Perhaps the loss in MPG is more because you switched from M1 0-20AFE to Castrol. M1 touts that 0-20AFE will produce .5-2.5 MPG gain.


No they don't....
Quote:
Savings would be based on 0.2-2.3 percent potential fuel economy improvement obtained by switching from higher viscosity oils to a 0W-20 or 0W-30 grade.


BTW, how do you KNOW that M1 uses trinuclear ?

Yes, they have a patent, but a patent isn't a recipe.

And in order for Trinuclear to work, ot breaks down to MoS2, which is embedded in the phosphate glass layer produced by the ZDDP breakdown...

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: tig1
Perhaps the loss in MPG is more because you switched from M1 0-20AFE to Castrol. M1 touts that 0-20AFE will produce .5-2.5 MPG gain.


No they don't....
Quote:
Savings would be based on 0.2-2.3 percent potential fuel economy improvement obtained by switching from higher viscosity oils to a 0W-20 or 0W-30 grade.


BTW, how do you KNOW that M1 uses trinuclear ?

Yes, they have a patent, but a patent isn't a recipe.

And in order for Trinuclear to work, ot breaks down to MoS2, which is embedded in the phosphate glass layer produced by the ZDDP breakdown...


Because.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: LotI
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Originally Posted By: tig1
Perhaps the loss in MPG is more because you switched from M1 0-20AFE to Castrol. M1 touts that 0-20AFE will produce .5-2.5 MPG gain. Real numbers or not that seems to fall into the ballpark for your 1.5 MPG loss. Also I would only do UOAs after two OCs in a row with the same oil.

No, you misunderstand that the claimed 0.2% to 2.3% MPG advantage with the AFE oils are compared to a higher viscosity oil. That means comparing a 0w20 to a 5w30 with naturally greater hydrodynamic drag. The friction modifiers in the 0w20 and 0w30 oils are nothing special. It does help during warmup to have the "0w" rating, but many other oils have 0w.

Mobil probably sells a lot of the AFE flavor by confusing people exactly as you are. I think its intentional, since most people won't understand or read the fine print, & Mobil marketers know that.

Mobil's statement: "Low viscosity, advanced full synthetic formula
Helps increase engine efficiency and improve fuel economy, based on 0.2-2.3 percent potential fuel economy improvement obtained by switching from higher viscosity oils to a 0W-20 or 0W-30 grade. Actual savings are dependent upon vehicle/engine type, outside temperature, driving conditions and your current motor oil viscosity."

Remember that tig1 works for Mobil, which he will deny.


How did you find out? Shannow?