First UOA for my 2013 F350 6.7l Powerstroke

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So my OLM went off on me this past week, and at first I got a bit concerned, since I am extending for the first time my oil change intervals. After chatting with members in the Bypass Filter section of the forum and how it relates to my OLM, I determined that my plan going forward will be to send an oil sample from my truck to my local laboratory ( AGAT ) and begin the process of managing my oil changes.

Which brings us to my first UOA:

2013 Ford F350 6.7l diesel with 4500kms on the oil. 5w40 Amsoil Signature Series Max-Duty Synthetic Diesel oil.

4500KM New OIl

Al . . 2 . . . 0
Cr . . 0 . . . 0
Cu . . 1 . . . 0
Fe . .11 . . . 0
Sn . . 0 . . . 0
Pb . . 0 . . . 0
Si . . 6 . . . 6
Mo . 39 . . 46
Ni . . 0 . . . 0
Ag . . 0 . . . 0
K . . .1 . . . 0
Na . . 5 . . . 6
B . . 46 . . .72
Ba . . 0 . . . 0
Ca .1490 . . 890
Mg . 941 . .1163
Mn . . 0 . . . 0
P . 1200 . .1174
Zn .1470 . .1383

Glycol (N). . .0
H2O . .(N). . .0
Viscosity
@ 100C 13.4 . 14.3
Soot . . 0 . . .0
OXD . . .0 . . .0
NOX . . .7 . . .0
COX . . .0 . . .0
SO4 . . .3 . . .0
ZDDP . . 0 . . .0
TBN . . 10.2 ~ 10.9


I have the FS2500 bypass filter installed on my truck running for the past 4 months or so.. and I was questioning its actual effectiveness but it actually seems to be not too bad! I still don't like that my oil is pitch black.
 
I am a bypass fan on diesels, but with my mid level knowledge on emissions systems I'm a little skeptical on extended drains what is your goal for the bypass?
On a lot of diesels with with emissions fuel dilution is a big issue but on that particular engine I'm not sure what say you?
 
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I neglected to mention that my truck has been fully deleted, which is a big help on its own. My intention is to prolong my oil changes as long as possible, keep wear metals low and protect my TBN. I could likely prolong my oil changes without the bypass filter, and manage them with regular testing, but it has been paid for and installed, so I may as well let it do its job. It can do nothing but help.

Every couple of weeks I get out after driving across town and reach under my side step to feel the canister and ensure it's getting nice and hot. Not only will the FS2500 help to keep wear metals down and prolong my oil changes, but I find that it keeps my oil about 10 deg Celsius lower than the temp of my radiator fluid. Hopefully reducing oxidation of my oil. If I do more towing than normal I may consider plumbing a cooler into the same line.

I have a Parker Racor 3micron bypass filter as well that I bought new/used for cheap that I've been debating bolting in along side the FS2500 to double the filtration on my oil but.. that may be a bit much. It may have a better use filtering my transmission fluid.

I think my next project will be to plumb in a coolant filter in the line I'm no longer using for my EGR.

I've invested about $500 so far into my bypass system, and comparing the costs I've projected for my first year compared to blindly changing my engine oil every 5000km (according to Lubex), managing my oil change intervals should pay for everything in the first year. Oil change time has been costing me about $250 per change. About once every 3 months. Yes I could prolong the changes without the bypass but I haven't been. As far as I'm concerned it's all part of the new system. I'll change my full flow filter yearly and my bypass filter when she seems to take longer to heat up.
 
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Sorry to tell you but a bypass filter will not help at all with slowing additive depletion which lowers your TBN. Not at all. But you started with an oil which has a high TBN.

Your bypass filter will remove some of the wear metals.

You can look at my recent post and see that there was not significant change in the UOA with a bypass filter and without. There was a slight change, more UOAs needed to see if the change was a real change or an abnormally.
 
I hear what you are saying, but there are other benefits other than fine filtration. And it's worth noting I have no idea what I'm talking about
grin.gif


I've read that the bypass filter slows the depletion of additives by removing wear metals, soot, and potential water or fuel that may get in the oil. Less acidity bringing down the TBN, less contamination by dirt and solvents.

I have experienced lower oil temperatures since I installed the bypass filter, and that ought to reduce oxidation.


Donald, i was reading your post earlier in the week. What a nice truck. I noticed you had a calcium spike as well.
 
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Originally Posted By: WallyMaven


I've read that the bypass filter slows the depletion of additives by removing wear metals, soot, and potential water or fuel that may get in the oil. Less acidity bringing down the TBN, less contamination by dirt and solvents.



Yup, my results definitely showed that. I installed the FS-2500 on a couple of big Cats and I saw much better TBN retention. I was using the same oil before and after the bypass installation and I worked my way from 30k mile oci up to 60k miles with amazing TBN. The bypass made a huge difference in soot removal and TBN retention.
 
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10-4 I was reading your other post the other day I remember you saying it was deleted now I didn't put two-and-two together.

My 1,072,000 Mile Detroit I just sent out a sample to two Labs on Thursday it is now at 30,000 miles on the bypass running Donaldson blue full flows and Schaeffer's 9000 which I have had great results with late next week I will post whatever results I have
 
I'm a bit confused here WallyMaven -

You're doing extended OCIs, but you've only got 4500kms (about 3k miles) on your lube? (I assume this is a sample only and not an OCI, then.) And the IOLM told you it was time to OCI?

You say the oil is "black", but the soot report is "0"?


Nothing alarming in the report. Soldier on with that extension!


Also, I would advise against any additional oil cooling; Alberta is not a favorable place to have more cooling in the winter! Oil needs to be up around 97-100C to do it's job well; to flow appropriately and such. Don't over-cool the lube. The engine cooling systems (coolant, oil, EGR, etc) all were made to work in harmony; don't upset the balance. Unless you've done something to greatly add heat (massive power increases used in sled pulling, drag racing, etc), your engine oil does not need "more" cooling.
 
I appreciate the advice DNewton. While driving during the summer, be it highway or in town, I rarely see my coolant temps exceed 80 deg Celsius and my oil temps sit at around 70 deg Celsius. I'm driving with my bullydog tuner set to "Performance tune" as recommended by the shop that did the work. Supposedly to improve my mileage more than out of a desire for extra power. I am currently averaging about 13l per 100km highway driving; I am seeing 14l / 100km overall.

And yes this is merely a sample brought on by my OLM.
 
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