5w20 vs 10w30 Pennzoil UP in Ford 5.4L

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Guys a couple of oil changes ago I started using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W20
in my 2006 F250 with 5.4L gas burner.

It's time for an oil change again and I typically use Amazon to shop because it's
cheaper / more convenient and I live in the DFW Metroplex so I get the product either same
day or the next.

Anyway, this morning I noticed that I can purchase a 5 qt. jug of the Ultra Platinum 10W30
for approx. $16.50 per jug cheaper than I can purchase the Ultra Platinum 5W20.

I'd like to do this because it would save me approx. $20 per oil change by switching to the
heavier weight oil.

So my question would be, would I be doing any harm by going with a heavier weight oil versus
the spec'd oil? My truck's engine currently has 165,000 miles on it and because of traffic / idling
on construction sites / Texas heat, etc. I have to add an extra quart between changes
(generally around the 5,000 mile mark of a 7,500 mile OCI).

I'd like to save the money but it wouldn't hurt me financially if I had to spend the extra, I just like
to be frugal where possible. I appreciate any input / thoughts you guys have.
 
10W30 won't hurt that engine at all. Go for it!

Pull the trigger on that cheap Ultra Platinum 10W30. It's not always $25 for 5 quarts. Although I did notice the 5W20 Ultra Platinum was at that price a few days ago (didn't last long though).
 
I just put 10w40 in my daughter's 2007 F-150 with the 5.4. She said it makes no difference. Thought I d try it and see. I have run 5w20/ 5w30 and now 10w40 in it with no change in performance or gas mileage. Runs fine.
 
10w30 wont hurt but 5w20 goes on sale on amazon sometimes too. I just got 6 jugs at 21 a piece off amazon a few days ago. Also right now if you have prime you can get the 0w20 in 1qt bottle for 4.66 as a add on item, so order 6 of those and it ships free.
 
In other than our northern winters I've run 10W-30 in our 2005 4.6 and noticed no negative effects compared to 5W-20. As said previously it might help with your slight oil consumption in your hot climate.

Whimsey
 
Personally, I would not.
With all the phaser and VCT solenoid issues these engines have, I would not use anything but xw-20 (and is what I put in my brother in laws '04 with the 5.4).
I know in his truck it makes all kinds noises (the horrible diesel rattle) when he has it changed at lube places that used bulk 5w-30 instead of 5w-20. The first time I drove it I turned it off because I thought something was wrong with it. Checked the oil, and it was fine. Went in and talked to him and he said "Yeah, it does that sometimes after they change the oil". This was before I knew about the issues with the 5.4 3v. I went ahead and used it with it rattling away. I saw on the windshield sticker it had 5w-30 in it (and this was in the summer).
After I found out about the issues, I told him to make sure that the oil change place uses 5w-20, and he said since then, it is not as noisy. He said one time as he drove out it starting making noise so he went back, and sure enough, they had used 5w-30.
Every time I change it I also use 5w-20, and it makes non of the horrible racket that it used to (although his oil filter does have lots of metal in it).

I know a lot of people use 5w/10w-30 in the 5.4 3v and don't have any issues, but again, I personally would not and had a negative experience doing so in that motor.
 
Originally Posted By: TreyB

because of traffic / idling
on construction sites / Texas heat, etc. I have to add an extra quart between changes
(generally around the 5,000 mile mark of a 7,500 mile OCI).


Why would idling cause oil consumption? Maybe it's because you're using 5W20. In Texas heat you should be using at least 10W30.
 
Using a 5w30 won't cause VCT issues in a modular. That's pure sci-fi.

The 3V VCT system is junk and the phasers are poorly designed to begin with.

That, along with chain tensioner seals that blow out are all a perfect recipe for rattles, ticks and low oil pressure.

It's a big job to fix, but not too horrible. Unfortunately most shops look at a ticking or knocking 3V and say it's junk, put another engine in. Which is not the case.

FWIW Fordtechmakuloco recommends 5W30 in all 3V engines. I run 5W30 in my 3V 4.6 and it's a very, very quiet 3V.
 
In blazin' hot Fort Worth, your 10w-30 will still be thinner than 5w-20 used in the cold north!

I would CHOOSE 10w-30 regardless of the price. The discount is gravy!
 
Those "in the know" have stated using a XW-30 grade has show less issue with those 5.4's in both timing chain and CAM Phaser issues and was all I ran in my 2005 F250 with a 5.4L. Sold with close to 250K miles and none of the issues compared to others that had run 20 weight oils.

There is quite a few county and state fleets that run even 15W-40 with no uptick in issues in those engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Canadastang
Using a 5w30 won't cause VCT issues in a modular. That's pure sci-fi.

The 3V VCT system is junk and the phasers are poorly designed to begin with.

That, along with chain tensioner seals that blow out are all a perfect recipe for rattles, ticks and low oil pressure.

It's a big job to fix, but not too horrible. Unfortunately most shops look at a ticking or knocking 3V and say it's junk, put another engine in. Which is not the case.

FWIW Fordtechmakuloco recommends 5W30 in all 3V engines. I run 5W30 in my 3V 4.6 and it's a very, very quiet 3V.


THIS 100000000000%
I run 5w30 and have 0 phaser/vct issues. 116k, all original timing components. No noise.
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher

Every time I change it I also use 5w-20, and it makes non of the horrible racket that it used to (although his oil filter does have lots of metal in it).


It is not the VCT system making the noise.... he needs to get his timing chain guides replaced RIGHT NOW!!!

NOW!!
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher

Every time I change it I also use 5w-20, and it makes non of the horrible racket that it used to (although his oil filter does have lots of metal in it).


 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: blupupher

Every time I change it I also use 5w-20, and it makes non of the horrible racket that it used to (although his oil filter does have lots of metal in it).





Yikes, that guide was gonna drop into the pan any day now...

I'll also add that timing chain/valvetrain noise on the 3v's is commonly from blown out seals on the back of the tensioners. Some of the early roller rockers failed premature, and a lot of high mileage lash adjusters stick too.

IMO if you're gonna open up a 3V, just do it all, guides, tensioners, phasers, chains, tone ring on the crank, and check all the rockers and lash adjusters while you're at it!

Edit: Also, did you manage to remove the front cover without removing the valve covers??? Are you a wizard?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: igs
Originally Posted By: TreyB

because of traffic / idling
on construction sites / Texas heat, etc. I have to add an extra quart between changes
(generally around the 5,000 mile mark of a 7,500 mile OCI).


Why would idling cause oil consumption? Maybe it's because you're using 5W20. In Texas heat you should be using at least 10W30.


I don't really know that it would, I just assumed that the engine runs a bit hotter whilst idling versus cruising down the road thus causing consumption.
I haven't researched it so I really don't know if that's the case or not.
 
Originally Posted By: TreyB
Originally Posted By: igs
Originally Posted By: TreyB

because of traffic / idling
on construction sites / Texas heat, etc. I have to add an extra quart between changes
(generally around the 5,000 mile mark of a 7,500 mile OCI).


Why would idling cause oil consumption? Maybe it's because you're using 5W20. In Texas heat you should be using at least 10W30.


I don't really know that it would, I just assumed that the engine runs a bit hotter whilst idling versus cruising down the road thus causing consumption.
I haven't researched it so I really don't know if that's the case or not.


I don't think excessive idling leads to more consumption, but I do know for a fact that a modular engine runs hotter oil temps at idle than highway cruising.

On mine, it's running about 190-200F sump temp idling, and cruising along the freeway at 2500RPM (3.73 gears) I'm seeing about 185F.

On the racetrack however...sometimes as high as 240F.

The oil filter adapter which is supposed to kinda cool the oil acts as an oil 'heater' at the worst of times.
 
Originally Posted By: Canadastang
Originally Posted By: TreyB
Originally Posted By: igs
Originally Posted By: TreyB

because of traffic / idling
on construction sites / Texas heat, etc. I have to add an extra quart between changes
(generally around the 5,000 mile mark of a 7,500 mile OCI).


Why would idling cause oil consumption? Maybe it's because you're using 5W20. In Texas heat you should be using at least 10W30.


I don't really know that it would, I just assumed that the engine runs a bit hotter whilst idling versus cruising down the road thus causing consumption.
I haven't researched it so I really don't know if that's the case or not.


I don't think excessive idling leads to more consumption, but I do know for a fact that a modular engine runs hotter oil temps at idle than highway cruising.

On mine, it's running about 190-200F sump temp idling, and cruising along the freeway at 2500RPM (3.73 gears) I'm seeing about 185F.

On the racetrack however...sometimes as high as 240F.

The oil filter adapter which is supposed to kinda cool the oil acts as an oil 'heater' at the worst of times.

I had some consumption issues. Everything cleared up after switching to 5w30. The heat is the killer of oil in these engines. Especially in TX.
 
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