2eha and toyota

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I have put SuperTech's "universal" coolant in two of my Toyota vehicles. I read on the label of the ST bottle that it contains 2-EHA. From what I understand, 2-EHA eats at silicone seals. I also read that Honda hates 2-EHA, and Toyota avoids it.

1) How screwed am I? I'm looking to keep both of the cars for about another 50k miles or so (both are 150k and over 10 yrs old).

2) Has anyone else used 2-EHA containing coolant in their car?

3) How can ST advertise a "universal" coolant when it's technically not?
 
If you don't mind flushing it out then I would get some Zerex red coolant which is supposed to be exactly like toyota red and just put that in. Otherwise I wouldnt worry too much.....but if I was looking at buying your used vehicle I would walk away if it didnt have red coolant in it...
 
Thousands of Toyota owners have used Dexclones without any problems.
I wouldn't worry about it.
ST Universal used to be made by Old World Industries (makers of PEAK) although I'm not sure if that is still the case....at any rate I'm sure it's a quality product.
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
ST Universal used to be made by Old World Industries (makers of PEAK) although I'm not sure if that is still the case....at any rate I'm sure it's a quality product.

According to the SDSs, looks like it's made by Prestone nowadays.
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According to known information about 2eha and universal AFs your basic premises listed are correct.

1) Might be or maybe even likely fine for the ~50k you state. As you already did it unless you want to do a complete flush/exchange, might as well go with it.

2) Personally have avoided and avoid universal AF containing 2eha in non Dex spec'd vehicles. I'm sure others have used universal AFs in Toyotas, can't speak to their results. I am currently running Peak Global Lifetime Universal OAT (no 2eha) in an 01 Tacoma three plus years, original radiator, doing fine.

3) ST advertising as 'Universal' breaks no law. In fact the greatest amount of AP store private label and other 'universal' labeled AFs are the same as ST, ie., an OAT AF containing 2eha. Peak Long Life is an example of a non store brand that would be the same or similar to ST. "Iirc", seems Old World owner of Peak brand makes ST, seems the MDSD sheet might make reference to that.

EDIT. Saw comment above. Perhaps ST has changed makers/suppliers, but doesn't change main point about containing 2eha.
 
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When I had my Pontiac Vibe (same as the Toyota Matrix), I flushed the old coolant and used dexcool. It worked perfect. I wouldn't worry about using ST coolant. U should be good to go
 
I used peak/prestone in a Honda Accord I used to have and had a hose eat itself and various leaks started. It was high mileage though, and it might have happened regardless.
The Corolla in my signature has original WP, radiator, hoses in fact it's all pretty much original except serpentine belt tensioner, intake gasket and wear items. I used Zerex Asian drain and fill every 3 years starting at the 6th year.
 
In the same AF section as ST, WM now sells Valvoline Asian Vehicle AF for ~$12/gal, it's the same as Zerex Asian Formula. Asian PHOAT AF perfect for Toyotas. Like the Asian OEM AFs comes as a premix.

Likely doesn't help with your question. Just pointing out there are many reasonably priced same as OEM 'type' aftermarket AFs that generally now can be easily found.
 
So I'm really confused now, and I don't know whether I should not worry about it or flush it out soon and replace it all with some Zerex Asian or equivalent.

I think I might flush it out with Zerex in the next few weeks just for some peace of mind. Just wish that there was a definitive answer. Is there a Toyota or Honda rep on the forums somewhere?
 
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It doesn't matter. BMW uses 2-eha, millions of cars are not running OEM coolant. If you are going to worry, flush it and move on. You will never rest easy while it is in there it sounds like.
 
The more I think about it, the more I might just leave the Super Tech in there. Because I've looked high and low or any official statement from Honda and Toyota about 2-EHA, and despite what people have said on forums like BITOG, neither of them have actually issued any official statement regarding 2-EHA.

The 2-EHA controversy seemed to have started with a few lawyers representing clients who claimed their cars were damaged by DexCool. And as we all know, lawyers tend to stretch the truth sometimes.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Switch over to Prestone Dexcool. I've never had any problems with it. Mix it 50/50 with distilled water.


Worst advice. Dexcool will gel and kill your cooling.
My brother had a Honda with 168K miles and he took it to Sears Auto for his tires and they told him the coolant was in bad condition.
So they dumped Dexcool and 5K miles later the engine was in flames on 101.

OEM is the only way in the cooling department.
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
Thousands of Toyota owners have used Dexclones without any problems.
I wouldn't worry about it.
ST Universal used to be made by Old World Industries (makers of PEAK) although I'm not sure if that is still the case....at any rate I'm sure it's a quality product.
I've got close to 400 K on a Camry using Prestone. Only cooling system problem I've had was a crack in the plastic radiator tank. patched it with JB, but found a new unit at such a good price I replaced it about a month later. Last water pump change with timing belt replacement indicated the pump wasn't leaking and could have remained.
 
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Switch over to Prestone Dexcool. I've never had any problems with it. Mix it 50/50 with distilled water.


Worst advice. Dexcool will gel and kill your cooling.
My brother had a Honda with 168K miles and he took it to Sears Auto for his tires and they told him the coolant was in bad condition.
So they dumped Dexcool and 5K miles later the engine was in flames on 101.

OEM is the only way in the cooling department.


Sorry, but Dexcool does not "gel" in and of itself within 5K miles and cause engines to blow up. Something else was at play here and was either they did not flush and fill properly and had a compatibility mix issue, or it just was your brother's car time to give up the ghost.
 
Well I've decided now after reading that guy's horror stories to purchase 5 bottles of Zerex Asian and am currently completing a coolant flush of both cars.
 
Originally Posted By: Deontologist
Well I've decided now after reading that guy's horror stories to purchase 5 bottles of Zerex Asian and am currently completing a coolant flush of both cars.


Personally I think that sounds wise. But maybe hold on about how to do the flush a minute, sounds like you bought too much.

We got a Lexus a few years ago that had green in it. I converted it to Red. I studied this and computed concentrations down to the ounce and this is what worked best for me based on science, math, and economics:

a) open radiator tap, and both of the block drain plugs (on a V).
b) refill with $.89/gallon distilled water from your supermarket. To full.
c) run until hot and t-stat opens and mixes with heater.
d) let cool, then dump it per a)
e) repeat b-d)
f) You should NOW be down to having only 2 ounces of the old in your system, and it cost you $5 of distilled water. Good enough. If you wanna get manic, add some citric acid and really clean things in this process. Cheap and super effective. Google it.
g) Now that you are clean, add 60% of this (see link below) to your system total volume. Average system volume on a V6 is 9.7 qts, so that is 5.9 qts. Check what it is for yours. So two of these containers delivered to your door for $25. Then top up with dH2O. You add the concetrate in first to compensate for the fact there is 1.5 to 2 quarts of pure water in your heater core you can't drain out.

This is the stuff to buy:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Concentrate-...M-/161475752394

h) you are now at 60% af/dH20 mix, which maximizes your position on the eutectic graph of bp/elevation-fp/depression. So you are protected down to like -60F and not the marginal -30F 50/50 gives and isnt' adequate in the severe northern US tier or Canada. and you have more anti-corrosion and other additives.

And, with the two quarts left over from what you bought, you can also do your 1st drain/fill in 30k miles. Also, with 2 qts of water in your heater core, you can't get anywhere near 50/50 if you use pre-mix. So check the eutectic graph of running 40/60, etc. and decide if you are happy. I would not be.

So take the $50 bucks of diluted Zerex back and do the job right! For less, too.

BTW, the Lexus I converted from green to red, the radiator rotted out 50k later; the plastic/polymer upper reservoir was so weakened from heat and the chemical it did not like, the upper radiator inlet pipe just collapsed.

Previously, a Lexus GS we had did the same with the heater valve; it just disintegrated after being run with non Asian coolant for a while. I understand in the past when you had to pay $30/gallon for concentrate, some people would cheap out and run non-Asian coolant. They won't fail right away, but eventually they will. Now that there are uber cheap and available compatible fluids, it's stupid to run something else.

DexCool might work. BUT - dexcool is more sensitive to oxidation and the expansion tanks on GM vehicles (my parents have two I service) are different than the fully vented expansion tanks on ToyoLex vehicles. I would not run dexcool in a more permissively ventilated Toyota coolant system.

In my parents' GM cars, I check the expansion tank and hoses annually (they are both now 10 years old) to ward this off. There are plenty of horror stories of older GM vehicles where the system wearks, lets in air, and the coolant goes to [censored] in a handbasket. I think dexcool is fine you are under warranty, but it isn't friendly as it ages and systems wear. It's a "just get it out of warranty" kinda product. Just like Toyota WS transmission fluid - might get you to 100k miles and out of warranty (often does not), but it's not a long term fluid like they advertise. -So I'm not picking on GM. toyota and everyone cheaps the [censored] out wherever they can and screws the 2nd or long-term original owner. None of these guys have the long-term owner or 2nd buyer's interest at heart.

Don't screw around. Flush the system twice at least, three is better. Then put it 60/40 with Asian red or pink fluid. Then drain/fill the rad. every 30k. It then might last a half million miles or more.
 
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