New roof dilema and home insurance prices

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Had a bad hail storm and now getting a new roof. State Farm came out and agreed and will be getting that done shortly. But, I've learned about the different classes of shingles...Class 1 to 4. They will only pay for a Class 1, which is a 30 year shingle. If I could go to a Class 4, a 50 year shingle, and pay the difference. From what all I've gathered, I have about 33.6 squares, the difference out of pocket would be around 1500 dollars. State Farm would also give me a 20% discount on the premium. Currently paying 2500 a year for insurance, so 500 a year in annual savings from that 20%, would pay for itself in 3 years. But, around here, we get hail storms a lot. Wondering if it's worth the cost while assuming that the chances of having roof damage again within 3-5 years is highly probable. One more issue, I freaked when I saw the premiums as I've been use to paying 12-1500 a year in homeowners. What are ya'll paying? Mine is a normal lot, good neighborhood, 100K liability, 5K medical, I do have earthquake clause with it.....180K dwelling and 170K on personal property. House is about 1800 sq ft with garage and central heat/air. Just seems really high insurance wise. This is my first claim. Rood is about 11 years old. I've also read that if your roof gets to about 75% of life expectancy and then file a claim, then you probably won't get anything from the insurance company because of depreciation, so maybe going to a 50 year shingle is not a bad idea.
 
Is your house actually worth $180K? What could you sell it for? $180k house and only $100k liability leaves you homeless in a lawsuit.

I would go with the premium shingle if you plan on staying there and if you have a lot of wind.

I switched insurance companies two years ago and they told me the assessed value was way high and so therefore the insurance was high. They were right. I assumed a larger assessed value meant I was worth more but it's really only a liability unless you are a temporary owner.
 
I'd definitely get the top-end shingle; I had them on my home in Denton, and they hold up much better to high-wind and med-size hail, and insurance discount pays for the difference. neighbors had to get theirs replaced TWICE (used standard shingles), and mine were still nice when I sold the home.
 
Are you going to be in that house for 50 years? Do you need 170K on personal property. If you have your vehicles insured with them, consider getting a 2 million umbrella policy.

I have state farm and their prices are low. But y ou need to shop around every 4 or 5 years.
 
You are paying way too much.
I have figured out that I go with a new insurance company every 1 to 2 years. Why?
They give you a big discount to sign up initially and then upcharge you if you stay with them. So I float my insurances back and forth. I pay what you pay now for a $700K dwelling and that is with the top policy. That said I do go for a $2500 deductible on all properties as anything devastating will be a fortune and the small stuff I'll handle myself.

On roofs- I always go for the best. Why risk the whole house on inferior roofing?
 
To help you make your decision:

http://www.integrityroofingandpainting.com/invest-class-4-shingle-system.html

Is the premium discount allowed for the entire 50-year shingle lifetime?

Older class 4 roof systems can sustain damage from 2-1/2” stones. As asphalt ages it becomes less pliable and more brittle. As a result, it no longer has the ability to transfer impact energy and the mat is damaged and/or punctures occur to this system. Most insurance companies recognize this and only recognize a class 4 shingle to provide a measure of protection for only a decade or less. Class 4 shingles are great, but again they are not hail proof and their serviceability diminishes over time.
 
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If you get the high dollar better shingles, and they get damaged, will insurance replace those, or will they only cover the cost of the lower quality shingles?
 
$100-130 a square for top end premium shingls, $70-80 for mid to lower end shingles is what I usually see for pricing on materials. I've been a big fan of the Timberline HD series for the price.
 
My next roof will be Metal.
My insurance company requires I insure the value of the house which I think is crazy due to the lot won't burn down and the location is worth more than the structure.
My insurance is around $1200-1300 a year with a upcharge Hurricane deductable.
I live 2 miles inland from the beach though so that's probably a good factor in the high insurance. I get free sinkhole coverage which assures me it will never be a issue.
 
For that little bit more $$$, I'd go for the better quality shingles, but there's a lot of variables at play that determines how they'll hold up.

Homeowner's insurance rates vary big time based on where you live. I'm at $1000/yr through Allstate for my 2900sq/ft two story with partially finished basement. I think they have my replacement cost at well over $300K. My home might be worth $250K in today's market.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
If you get the high dollar better shingles, and they get damaged, will insurance replace those, or will they only cover the cost of the lower quality shingles?

Never thought of that. Dang good point....I'd suspect not. I will ask them though. Thanks for that.
 
I would think if you have replacement insurance they would. My house is 60 years old and I just put on some 50 year shingles. I'd rather have a quality product as the last one started to come apart almost from the beginning one tab at a time due to spring winds.

Got a quote of $15k for a steel roof. It's a ranch house with no valleys, about 18 square. I had the 50 year shingles put on for $7k with a two layer tear off.
 
ArticDriver....thanks...really good read. I actually came across that last week and read it again. Good points. HOA will not let me go metal. Planning on staying in that house until I'm dead. Uggghhhh....hate shopping around for insurance, but dang, I sure don't like getting ripped off. Wonder what USAA would do if I bunched up my 3 cars/boat and house. Are all State Farm offices the same? The reason I ask is that this particular agent is about 40 miles from me. There are two that live within my town. May give them a chance if it's worth it. Had Farm Bureau for a long time, but for some reason, the changed corporate policies and would almost double your premiums if you did not let them insure your vehicles, and their vehicle policies were crazy, stupid high. But, my contractor said State Farm was the best to work with in our area.
 
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You don't have a basement but people forget the clean up costs associated with a disaster.
I understand but cleanup fees could approach or exceed the lot value- of course not a waterfront lot but a basic lot.

Originally Posted By: Panzerman
My next roof will be Metal.
My insurance company requires I insure the value of the house which I think is crazy due to the lot won't burn down and the location is worth more than the structure.
My insurance is around $1200-1300 a year with a upcharge Hurricane deductable.
I live 2 miles inland from the beach though so that's probably a good factor in the high insurance. I get free sinkhole coverage which assures me it will never be a issue.
 
Schmoe, I also live in OK and our numbers are almost identical across the board.

The norm in central OK seems to be high ins premiums and frequent hail. Since large enough hail can damage more than just shingles, I'd go with regular shingles and count on replacing the roof every 10-15 years.

Also check if your policy does REPLACEMENT cost. This means the insurance won't devalue your roof based on age, which means you wouldnt have to make up the difference each time you make a claim.
 
Reddy....I'm in Chickasha...we didn't get hammered like Moore had been, but enough I guess. You're thinking like I am....I've been averaging a new roof about every 10 years. If I go with Class 4, then let's say my roof wouldn't get replaced with the others that had a Class 1. Now, move along to 25 or so years, now I do have enough damage to get my roof replaced. But adding depreciation, is it still worth it? Or just stick with Class 1 and play the averages. My roofing contractor even has class 1 on his roof and is ensured with State Farm as well. Really surprised to hear you're paying about the same. I got friends down here in Lawton with similar sized that paying about 1K less a year in premiums. The only reason I went with State Farm was that they had full replacement. Turns out they didn't. After some research, I don't think anybody does full replacement anymore around here.
 
It pays to check around for insurance rates every year or so. This was mentioned earlier.
Cost to replace 250k home is about 400k i was told because of demolition and cleanup etc.
After a few claims wind related state farm cancelled my insurance for next year
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Schmoe, yup I know folks in Lawton who pay less. They don't seem to get bad hail as often so that might explain the rate difference.

One roofer I spoke with told me that the insurance premiums go up any time a major storm passes through the state.
 
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