AWD tire issue

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So I drive an Acura TL with the SH-AWD system, and have always been careful to keep all four tires the same condition. This system is most of the time operating in FWD, except when the computer tells it to apply torque to the back wheels, and then apportions the torque to the outer tire on curves.

I got an unrepairable puncture right at the shoulder and my current set of tires has about 20k on them, so there is still a lot of life left in them. They are Continental DWS-06 tires, which aren't cheap--around $170 at tire rack and around $200 at a local guy. So I bought one new tire as an emergency replacement so I could get to work.
So now I have three tires that are at half life and a brand new tire. Should I get a second to match the replacement tire so at least both tires on the same "Axle" are the identical diameter and state of wear. Buying three new tires is a no go, I am a married man and the Mrs. would not understand.

Is it necessary to buy tires in pairs or a foursome with this AWD system, I think 99% of the time the front and rear wheels are not locked together while driving, so I doubt there would be much damage to the AWD system by having two newer tires.

Am I over thinking this whole thing and should I just stay with three old and 1 new.
 
From your owner's manual:
"It is best to replace all four tires at the same time. If that is not possible or necessary, replace the two front tires or two rear tires as a pair. Replacing just one tire can seriously affect your vehicle's handling."

On Audi and Subaru vehicles, there are additional warnings about mixing tires with different degrees of treadwear that could damage the power train.

The Acura doesn't state that.
 
Originally Posted By: Curtis Newton
From your owner's manual:
"It is best to replace all four tires at the same time. If that is not possible or necessary, replace the two front tires or two rear tires as a pair. Replacing just one tire can seriously affect your vehicle's handling."

On Audi and Subaru vehicles, there are additional warnings about mixing tires with different degrees of treadwear that could damage the power train.

The Acura doesn't state that.


One option not mentioned in the owner's manual is that you can have the new tire shaved to the same tread depth as the other three...which is what I'd do, considering the option is to buy at least one more tire.
 
I have no idea at what it cost but it is my understanding you could have the new tire shaved to match the other three.
 
I've seen plenty of AWDs with the fronts worn much more than the rears, but we're talking pairs. It almost makes sense to keep one used half worn tire around in the event you have an non-repairable tire.
 
Which tire was it? Usally the front, passenger side one takes the most abuse from weight and more potholes being on that side. If you do buy another tire then you can save the current one as a spare or sell it on CL.
 
I always consider buying a new spare at the same time as new tires as a calculated risk. One I don't always follow and then I read of an experience like yours and...

Thank you for sharing this.

IMO, I would change out 2 tires at a minimum.

I have no experience with the tire shaving cost factor...perhaps someone could chime in?

I suppose some of the equation would depend on whether you are happy with your current tire brand and model and intend to stay with it next time.
 
If it were me with this situation with all the options laid out in the previous posts, my top desire would be to replace all four tires if at all possible. Best case would be to replace with exactly what I want or what is on it. However you state that is rather cost prohibitive for you. So, given the costs of 2 or 4 new ones, or a new one and shaving one down, I think I would look for a lower priced quality tire that would would be close to the replacement value of just 2 of the pricey ones I already have (in this case the Conti DWS-06's). However,

My solution then would be 4 new Sumitomo HTR A/S P02 which goes for 97 bucks and some change on Tire Rack. However, buying one tire and shaving it down would be the cost of the tire, mounting, etc. plus around 40 bucks to shave it.
 
TireRack will shave a tire to your specs and sent it to you. That may be a good option- save the new, full tread tire for the for the next replacement cycle.
 
Originally Posted By: Danh
TireRack will shave a tire to your specs and sent it to you. That may be a good option- save the new, full tread tire for the for the next replacement cycle.


Good idea or call around for tire shops in the area that can shave it.
 
Originally Posted By: ejes
My solution then would be 4 new Sumitomo HTR A/S P02 which goes for 97 bucks and some change on Tire Rack. However, buying one tire and shaving it down would be the cost of the tire, mounting, etc. plus around 40 bucks to shave it.


Looks like a nice tire. Plus about $60 or so for shipping. Amazon has some Nokian zLine A/S tires for $105 and free shipping. Here is a review of them:

http://tirereviewsandmore.com/nokian-zline-as-reviews/
 
What happens is the wheel speed sensor tells the computer that it's running at a different speed than the others causing brakes to be applied to prevent the (apparent) skid. Not good for your brakes and the poor computer is having conniptions.
 
Tires on the same axle should be at the same wear level for AWD. This keeps the differential for that axle from working too hard due to a massive difference in grip, rolling diameter, etc.

Front to rear it's less of a problem, but obviously it is a safety risk on any car to run two tires that are almost bald.
 
Originally Posted By: Curtis Newton
From your owner's manual:
"It is best to replace all four tires at the same time. If that is not possible then replace the wife


crackmeup2.gif
 
Something I have given thought to for shaving a tire round, or take off some tread is to use a 2 wheel drive vehicle with an open diff, and tie it off securely to something solid like a big tree. Then taking other precautions, use a floor jack, and load one tire lightly on concrete flooded with water, and shave it down? Or just bolt in on to something with an open diff, and go have some fun with burnouts! If you didn't screw up, it would be much cheaper than paying to have it shaved. From the shaved tires I've seen, even from the Tirerack look like they had been shaved with a giant cheese grater.
 
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Just curious, have you measured the difference in tread depth?

20k doesn't seem like a huge amount of wear, so maybe you can measure your current 3 tires and find the one with the thickest depth, and pair them up. I think the front passenger side tire gets the most wear? Put the new tire there. Or just get it shaved down a little to match the deepest tread depth tire.
 
It is called truing a tire, about 20 or 30 bucks, find an old school,
alignment shop / semi truck front end shop, even call an independent tire shop they can tell you who to call in your area.
The machine has a razor blade that spins in circles that is about 2 in in diameter they do it on the car the machine has a roller that spins the wheel and they put the disc up to the tire and go from the middle to each side .my dad owner a truck repair shop ,that was where my childhood was spent....oh the memories!
 
This is the reason that many Subaru dealer shops are equipped to shave tires.
Nobody replaces three good tires just because one of four is unrepairable.
 
Originally Posted By: pkunk
What happens is the wheel speed sensor tells the computer that it's running at a different speed than the others causing brakes to be applied to prevent the (apparent) skid. Not good for your brakes and the poor computer is having conniptions.


Perhaps in some AWD vehicles but if that were true then the brakes would automatically be applied every single time you round a corner or even a bend in the road because the inside wheel is traveling less distance and spinning slower...in reality the differentials are mechanically removing that. It depends on the particular AWD system how it resolves actual wheel spin-out and applying a variation of braking action and transferring power to a different wheel.

And the difference is wheel rotation is much greater with in a wheel rounding a corner than it is with a few 1/32" of tire depth.

But perhaps on the newer vehicles with very sophisticated programming is where you might have read that?
 
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