FL 500s FL820s FL 1A

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Saw these at WM today.
Are they interchangable ?
The gaskets seem to match up.
820S seems like a nice compromise.
 
No. The FL-1A has SAE threads. The other two have matching metric threads and can be interchanged depending on clearance.

For example the 3.7L V6 in my wife's car is only able to accomodate the FL-500S can diameter. My truck is able to accommodate either the FL-820S diameter or the FL-500S diameter.

Lots of threads & pics here of torn FL-820S and some FL-500S. I don't use Motorcraft filters.
 
I love the FL1A filter. I used them often on Toyotas that would accept the big ole filter.
It uses 3/4-16 threads, right? Yeah, the FL820 is thread incompatible. You can even see in the photo how it has much larger threads.
 
I'd avoid the 820s and use the recommended filter because the 820s will be more problematic from many experiences here
than the 500s. More prone to tears in longer OCI's.
 
The quick change shops are stocking the "FL-500S size" more and more, Lots of folks run them on their trucks with no issues. It's spec'd for the Coyote 5.0, so I SERIOUSLY doubt there's any issues with it's size being inadequate.


I have never had a Motorcraft filter fail in any way.
I haven't cut them ALL open, but the ones I have have never had any issues.

My local walmart is clearancing all of their Bosch Distance plus filters for $3.00

I got the last three "FL-820s" equivalents - that'll keep me the next 60,000 miles.
 
As an aside, that FL-1A filter looks pretty dated. I thought they got rid of the "Long Life" wording ages ago. Or, did they bring it back inexplicably? The "regular" version, for which the FL-1A was the upsell, was the CFL1, and that was discontinued decades ago.
 
Yes I only see very old stock with the " Long Life" notations

Originally Posted By: Garak
As an aside, that FL-1A filter looks pretty dated. I thought they got rid of the "Long Life" wording ages ago. Or, did they bring it back inexplicably? The "regular" version, for which the FL-1A was the upsell, was the CFL1, and that was discontinued decades ago.
 
I guess WM carries some rather old stock.
I will check the date onit when i visit next. Dont know if it has one.

820S never let me down.
500S be easy to replace though thru that tight space on the expe.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Long life meaning can go how many miles ?

I'm not sure what Ford's marketing was, exactly. My 1983 Ford LTD's owner's manual listed the CFL1 as the prescribed filter, with the FL-1A as the premium, long life option, along with a marketing picture of the filter, much like shown in the thread. OCIs were obviously shorter then. The draw for me was the FL-1A had the ADBV, the CFL1 did not.
 




Ran donught magnet thru it. Picked up nothing
smile.gif

That 820s has seen qsud 10w30 and pp 10w30.
Maybe has seen some blends of m1 i did before.

Few 820s filters in the past have been left on the expe for few years at a time when i was a busybody
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Long life meaning can go how many miles ?


I ran a single FL-1A on a "beater" 400M in a '78 F250 for 30,000 miles (3x OCI's every ~10k miles, 15W-40)

The reason I did that was because I had previously run another FL-1A for 10K on the same engine, and after cutting it open I found nothing of consequence. Just some small bits of carbon.

After 30,000 miles of use, I found NO failures inside - no media tears, no sludge, mo metal shavings... just lots & lots of fine bits of carbon. The pleats were wavy, but I just assumed they all did that.
 
Wow not good thanks.

What causes that during driving or is it a defect already present from the factory.

Who makes champ ph820?
 
Originally Posted By: merconvvv

What causes that during driving or is it a defect already present from the factory.

Tears are mostly likely to occur during cold starts when the oil viscosity is at it's highest. This is why the user would want to keep the RPMs low until the engine warms up. When tears occur, they most likely will be on the pleats on either side of the seam. In my view the media is weak, there is not enough media in the filter element and the pleat spacing is not even.

Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Who makes champ ph820?

The Champ ph820 is made by Champion Labs
http://www.champlabs.com/

The PH820 is an eCore design with a combo valve made of nitrile rubber. This rubber degrades with time and temperature so the ADBV function goes away relatively quickly (less than 2000 miles on the Ranger). I would not recommend the PH820 for OCI greater than 6 months / 5000 miles. I would not recommend the filter for use on an engine that demonstrates startup rattle. I bought 5-6 of them for short OCI cleanup tasks and they all looked great when dissected. They don't tear and I have not had any issues with the filter elements. I am on the last one and do not plan to purchase any more because I want something a bit better.

I have used the WIX 51372, Fram PH2, Fram TG2 and the ACDELCO 1250 (eCore again) without issues.
 
hummm i have lots of new fl820s
frown.gif


I do baby the expe.
Almost never sees rpm over 2k.

Oil pressure is probably far from max at any given time. I dont know if that is enough to use up my stash or dump it and start researching oil filters.
Researching oil gave me and few others spikes in bp
smile.gif
 
In a single pass does all the oil go thru the filter or there is a fraction that bypasses the oil filter. I guess i am wondering if there was a tear as shown above some oil that goes thru the filter will go unfiltered but some will get filtered as normally. The oil filtering efficiency will go down but not to zero ?
 
If the bypass valve is closed with no media tears all the oil flow goes through the media in a full flow filter.

A good way to yhink about a media tear is to think about running a traditional style vacuum cleaner with hole in the bag vs. one with an intact bag. The pressure drop will redistribute but the resistance of the tear hole is much less than the resistance of the media.
 
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