Constant speeds and the break in period

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I've got a new Toyota Tundra and I hate to admit, but out of habit, I used my cruise control during several 30-50 mile highway trips during the break in period. I see the manual recommends not to drive constant speeds for extended periods. I've got about 400 miles on the clock now, and I'll pay extra close attention to my speeds over the next 600 miles. Should I be concerned about any potential issues due to my ignorance? Any advice or opinions are appreciated.
 
No, just drive it. Every once in a while let it run up through the gears when safe to do.
 
I bet you just voided your warranty. The techs will know what you did when they hook their computer to your truck.
 
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thanks AVB!
 
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The main point to remember during the break in process is to drive sensibly. Don't push it for the first 500-1000 miles. Other parts of the vehicle are breaking in as well like the transmission, brakes, diffs, etc.
 
I have yet to have an issue with engine break in. However, I had an Isuzu engine that blew its piston rings, a Subaru engine that blew head gaskets and a Honda engine that had major fuel dilution issues. None of that was break in related. I just don't go bunkers on it and that works for me.

Almost the first drive with my 2016 Golf was a 500 mile freeway trip, much of it at constant speeds, and it consumes no oil at 13,000 miles, and I get 40mpg on the freeway.

Lose no sleep over it.
 
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lol. I have witnessed a brand new Cadillac CTS-V do 148 with 4 techs riding in it. I have seen brand new vehicles drag race other brand new vehicles during the PDI. You don't know how it was treated prior to you. It is kind of a double edged sword, if something is going to break you want it to happen while it is under warranty.
 
For the life of me I cannot understand the break in routines. Other than not stomping on it (resulting in high cylinder pressures), how and why would variable rpm matter. The piston still goes up and down in the bore.
 
You want to increase cylinder pressure because that is what forces the rings against the cylinder wall and let's them wear into a good seal. Varying speeds is just lawyer speak for give it some gas and don't cruise at light throttle. Google mototune USA and read.
 
Most new trucks at Ford get torture tested doing 80+mph right out the gate in their large parking lots. Lots of tire squealing everywhere at the plant for F250 - F450. Seems like the Stock Michelins burn more than the Goodyear's on similar trucks. just an observation though no real testing.

On the other hand I have own a Kawasaki ninja and a buddy bought the same. He took it easy broke it in gently and his is a dog compared with mine. I easily take him off the start and leave him in all gears at any speed. He is so PO'd about it and wonders why he followed break in rules and I hammered mine from the start. No issues yet with mine in any way at 14,000 miles. His is fine too but just doggier. Not sure if it's related to the break in method but again an observation without data to support.
 
You got to make sure the stickers are burned off of the exhaust before you can put it on the lot.
 
We put sticker or "catchword" tape on some exhaust components but not all of them.

people writing those manual are technical writers hired for that purpose and they generally have no idea just take someone else words and translate into a manual.
 
I just finished for the most part, breaking-in an Audi 2.0 GDiT---800 miles of purposeful driving with much varying rpm. As of today, with a max speed of 57 mph so far and a total of 700 miles, I felt it was time to wring it out a bit. Using about 1/3 throttle I manually shifted at 4K rpm thru first second third and into 4th gear--felt real sweet, even though it was 95 degrees this afternoon. That is about the most wicked I would ever get during the first 2K miles of break in.
Steve
 
Drove every new vehicle off the lot like I drove the traded in vehicle. Never an issue in 35yrs of getting new vehicles.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
You want to increase cylinder pressure because that is what forces the rings against the cylinder wall and let's them wear into a good seal. Varying speeds is just lawyer speak for give it some gas and don't cruise at light throttle. Google mototune USA and read.


by your logic then, I should stomp on the gas...and that is not what they say.
 
The idea is to get a good load on the rings like silver fusion said. don't flog the [censored] out of it red lining it, but a good load up to 3500 rpm, also don't go running around at 90 mph for the first 1000 miles or so for the gear train.

I have a Honda generator, that sucker doesn't burn a drop, I purposefully alternated loads light loads at first, all the way up to about a 5,000 watt constant load for 30 minutes. You should have seen the muffler, lol glowing red, the back to a light load to let things cool off.
 
Originally Posted By: spk2000
We put sticker or "catchword" tape on some exhaust components but not all of them.

people writing those manual are technical writers hired for that purpose and they generally have no idea just take someone else words and translate into a manual.


The Chryslers and GM's that I have PDIed have nearly all had some sort of parts label on the exhaust. I have brought some in the shop that smelled so strong of burning paper that I took them back out on the road again to finish burning it off.
 
Drive normally for30-45 minutes do get the oil to the operating temp and then hammer on. Most automatic transmissions barely let the engine touch the redline before shifting, and at over 400 miles, the engine is well overdue for some hard work. I would also do some compression braking, by manually downshifting the tranny.

Vehicles are not babies.
 
Originally Posted By: philipp10
For the life of me I cannot understand the break in routines. Other than not stomping on it (resulting in high cylinder pressures), how and why would variable rpm matter. The piston still goes up and down in the bore.


Supposedly high revs stretch the con-rods a little bit and the rings ram into a ridge at the top of the liners. But I could see this only being a problem if you run it slow for a long time (years) then give 'er the beans.

I wouldn't drive it up Mt Washington but a little blip up into the fun zone, all warmed up, seems useful and harmless.
 
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