1st brake job on my 2012 Honda Accord

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My 2012 Accord has 70,000 miles on it and the rotors are wraped badly. The pads have lots of meat left but I cant stand the car shaking when I hit the breaks so I'm going to replace everything. A good friend of mine can get me parts at NAPA at a pretty good discount so I'd like to take him up on that offer. What would you say is the best parts for this job that I can get at NAPA? The factory rotors started warping between 40,000 and 50,000 miles and slowly got worse till now at 70.000 miles. I'd like to get a rotor that would resist warping and pads that last and bite well too. Are Ultra Premium rotors and adaptive One pads a good combo? Thanks for any recommendation!!!
 
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That's two times in a row tonight that you misspelled "brake" in a thread title.
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
That's two times in a row tonight that you misspelled "brake" in a thread title.
grin2.gif



Oh dang! It is 3am and I'm dead tired but that is no excuse haha!
 
The scenario you described sounds very normal for most imports that use ceramic pads from the factory.

You can either have the rotors machined using an on-car-lathe (not bench lathe) or you can remove the old rotors, clean off the rust on the hub very well and install new premium rotors (Napa Ultra prem should be ok). Make sure you measure the runout and confirm that it is under 0.002." Sand the old pads lightly and re-use them.

Be sure to check your rear brakes. At your mileage, the rear pads should be due soon.
 
My neighbor's 2010 Accord had near bone dry, STICKY pins in the rear brakes.

One pad cocked so it wore crookedly, hit the warning tang and I got a phone call.

ERGO address cleaning and lubing the pins.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Are Ultra Premium rotors and adaptive One pads a good combo? Thanks for any recommendation!!!


I tried the adaptive one pads on a 2009 Malibu, as you probably know the theory behind them are different friction material between the inside and outside pad. I found in my scenario they quickly lead to a pulsating pedal and had less bite than the factory pads. I switched to Akebono Pro Act pads and was much happier. It looks like NAPA has an Akebono pad for your Accord that may be worth a try.

I liked the adaptive one Pads enough at first to recommend them and install a set in my mom's 2007 Camry. In her car, the pulsating pedal isn't an issue but they are noisy while backing up and when cold, and offer significantly less bite than the factory pads to the point she noticed and complains about it.

New rotors were installed on both brake jobs.

Just my experience... different cars, different environment etc.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
That's two times in a row tonight that you misspelled "brake" in a thread title.
grin2.gif



He was sleepy and just needed to take a brake,um,I mean break haha
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Have your NAPA contact have the rotors turned. They'll probably last until the pads are actually worn out. I have a buddy who did my Buick rotors for (free) a few cold ones. The pads still are not worn out.
 
If the rotors are actually warped, it is most likely caused by improper wheel nut torque. Quality of rotor has nothing to do with it.

This is assuming the brakes (NOT breaks GAH!) are properly serviced at least once a year.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
That's two times in a row tonight that you misspelled "brake" in a thread title.
grin2.gif



That seems to be a rampant error on this site, almost as bad as the misuse of there, they're, and their, or your and you're.
 
There are several TSB's for Accords having brake shudder. It could be warped rotors or material transfer to the rotor. You could have them turned if there is enough material. If you go new, be diligent about removing any rust from the hub. Make sure your wheel surfaces are cleaned up too.
 
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
If the rotors are actually warped, it is most likely caused by improper wheel nut torque. Quality of rotor has nothing to do with it.

This is assuming the brakes (NOT breaks GAH!) are properly serviced at least once a year.


I second this opinion. You will be surprised how over torqued the lug nuts can be when they use those powerful impact drivers. Even my Mercedes dealer had mine way way over specs. Discount tire is one of the few that is careful about this and uses torque sticks.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
My 2012 Accord has 70,000 miles on it and the rotors are wraped badly. The pads have lots of meat left but I cant stand the car shaking when I hit the breaks so I'm going to replace everything. A good friend of mine can get me parts at NAPA at a pretty good discount so I'd like to take him up on that offer. What would you say is the best parts for this job that I can get at NAPA? The factory rotors started warping between 40,000 and 50,000 miles and slowly got worse till now at 70.000 miles. I'd like to get a rotor that would resist warping and pads that last and bite well too. Are Ultra Premium rotors and adaptive One pads a good combo? Thanks for any recommendation!!!

I am running Ultra Premiums and Adaptive One's on my Honda Pilot for the last 10K miles and are very happy with them. My AO's are made in Canada and rated GG, both make me happy. They have plenty of bite. My buddy has had AO's on his Volvo's for several years now. No pulsating problems.

The "best parts" may include SilGlyde as well, but other brake-qualified greases will do.

The rotors pulsating or "warping" may happen again unless you check parallelism, rotor runout, and properly bed the brakes (not breaks). These are simple things to do, but many people would rather trust random chance and claim "these things are set at the factory" or other nonsense.

I have the instruments, I've had to correct for runout by re-indexing the rotors. Yet some people would rather be blind and trust to luck. My cheap C-Tek rotors on the Toyota have 58K with zero "warping" feeling when braking. I've lubed the brakes once since I put them on and that's it. But I did check parallelism and corrected for runout when I installed them 3 years ago.
 
Originally Posted By: Stevie
Even my Mercedes dealer had mine way way over specs. Discount tire is one of the few that is careful about this and uses torque sticks.


You just contradicted yourself. You said they're careful, and use torque sticks.

Careful would mean using a torque wrench.
 
My 08 Accord: The Brakes Life
At 16,800 miles the dealer refinish the front brake discs, and install new brake pads with V-springs.
At 29,000 miles, install new WagnerThermoQuiet® Brake Pads - Rear Part No PD1336. Slide pins was stuck.
At 75,200 miles, install new Wagner PD1336 Brake Pad - Rear Part No PD1336
At 83,325 miles, install new Carquest Wearever Brake Rotor - Front Part No. YH145287 and Wagner ThermoQuiet QC787 Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set
Current miles 95,625 miles. Cost $113.72 total.
Wearever rotors are doing good so far. Rear rotors and pads will be replaced next. Will use Centric rotors and maybe Wagner pads.
 
Originally Posted By: Tundragod
My 08 Accord: The Brakes Life
At 16,800 miles the dealer refinish the front brake discs, and install new brake pads with V-springs.
At 29,000 miles, install new WagnerThermoQuiet® Brake Pads - Rear Part No PD1336. Slide pins was stuck.
At 75,200 miles, install new Wagner PD1336 Brake Pad - Rear Part No PD1336
At 83,325 miles, install new Carquest Wearever Brake Rotor - Front Part No. YH145287 and Wagner ThermoQuiet QC787 Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set
Current miles 95,625 miles. Cost $113.72 total.
Wearever rotors are doing good so far. Rear rotors and pads will be replaced next. Will use Centric rotors and maybe Wagner pads.



Is it the climate there or the driving type?.....I am in New Mexico and my CR-V is at 133,000 miles with no brake service and I have about 55% left on the original pads.
 
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
If the rotors are actually warped, it is most likely caused by improper wheel nut torque. Quality of rotor has nothing to do with it.

This is assuming the brakes (NOT breaks GAH!) are properly serviced at least once a year.


Yes, proper wheel nut torque is so important.
 
Honda's gotten into hot water with the Accords eating through rear brakes faster than the fronts. I suspect it's because of how the ABS/ESP(VSA in Honda-speak) will work the rear brakes more to help distribute braking force.
 
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