About to Try Mobil 1 Annual Protection

[CrackyWainwright]

My son is off at college, so I don't have as much maintenance access to the 2012 KIA Sportage 2.4L he drives. This vehicle has 91,000 miles, and I'm about to change the oil with a fill of M1 AP in the suggested 5W-20 along with the M1 AP filter. WM has the oil for $40 now and the filter for $13.

We'll see if I have the nerve to let that go one full year. For a few years I've been using Castrol Edge EP in our vehicles along with a Fram Ultra 15,000 mile filter, but I get nervous at about the 10,000 mile mark when the oil gets awfully dark and dirty looking.

 

[4WD]

Lots of folks run 10k oil 5k. Lots of folks run 15k oil 5k to 10k. But there is little interest here wrt running 20k oil 10k to 15k ... and mention the other 5k gained for so much more money. (And are not even long OCI users)
I'm waiting on price like others - and will follow OLM when it is cheap enough ... probably one vehicle only ...

 

[DuckRyder]

The UOA’s may be interesting. There doesn’t appear to be anything magical in it detected by a consumer level VOA.

I have a Jug of 0/20 for the Civic, with 10.00 off / gift cards it is cheap enough to try. I’ll sample it along to way to see if I run it 20,000.

I think the price point at which this will sell is low $30.00 range. The average mileage has been creeping up, last I looked it was around 18,000 miles a year.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Does the kia eat any oil? Will he top off?

 

[JustN89]

This is just personal opinion here but with the issues that Hyundai/Kia have had with that 2.4L engine, I wouldn't try to do any extended OCI especially considering that they have upped the warranty (on certain components) to 120K miles. You won't want to exceed the manufacturer's suggested OCI. His Optima falls right in the sweet spot of that recall (2011-2013 for the Optimas). My suggestion would be to just supply him with the 30 dollars or whatever it costs for his local Hyundai/Kia dealership to do the oil change and schedule the appointment for him if needed. Again, just my two cents.

 

[Ddubya]

Originally Posted By: JustN89
This is just personal opinion here but with the issues that Hyundai/Kia have had with that 2.4L engine, I wouldn't try to do any extended OCI especially considering that they have upped the warranty (on certain components) to 120K miles. You won't want to exceed the manufacturer's suggested OCI. His Optima falls right in the sweet spot of that recall (2011-2013 for the Optimas). My suggestion would be to just supply him with the 30 dollars or whatever it costs for his local Hyundai/Kia dealership to do the oil change and schedule the appointment for him if needed. Again, just my two cents.


Assuming the vehicle is still covered under the extended or original warranty, I think this is very sound advice. Philosophically, (with a different vehicle) I think there is nothing wrong with your logic. Under similar circumstances, I am about to do the same thing with our Cadillac DTS, except with Castrol Edge EP and a Fram Ultra filter. It has a 7.5qt sump and I'll also run 1 can of Liqui Moly Oil Saver as it has shown a definite benefit in quelling an oil leak that some Northstars get and are famously expensive to repair correctly. I plan to run it out to 18 months or 10-12K miles, whichever comes first.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: CrackyWainwright
My son is off at college, so I don't have as much maintenance access to the 2012 KIA Sportage 2.4L he drives. This vehicle has 91,000 miles, and I'm about to change the oil with a fill of M1 AP in the suggested 5W-20 along with the M1 AP filter. WM has the oil for $40 now and the filter for $13.

We'll see if I have the nerve to let that go one full year. For a few years I've been using Castrol Edge EP in our vehicles along with a Fram Ultra 15,000 mile filter, but I get nervous at about the 10,000 mile mark when the oil gets awfully dark and dirty looking.

My daughter drives the Accord out on the east coast for grad school, so I have a similar situation. I always use M1 EP which is also good for one year (and 15,000 miles). Your son drives over 15,000 miles in that year to make AP worth the money?

 

[Wolf359]

Don't forget the $10 Walmart gift card so it's really $30.

https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mobil-promotions/walmart-mobil-1-annual-protection-gift-card

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: CrackyWainwright
My son is off at college, so I don't have as much maintenance access to the 2012 KIA Sportage 2.4L he drives. This vehicle has 91,000 miles, and I'm about to change the oil with a fill of M1 AP in the suggested 5W-20 along with the M1 AP filter. WM has the oil for $40 now and the filter for $13.

We'll see if I have the nerve to let that go one full year. For a few years I've been using Castrol Edge EP in our vehicles along with a Fram Ultra 15,000 mile filter, but I get nervous at about the 10,000 mile mark when the oil gets awfully dark and dirty looking.


Fram Ultra is now a 20,000 mile oil filter, according to Fram.

Your past habit of using a Fram Ultra oil filter is the right one. The fact that you downgraded to a M1 AP oil filter for the Kia is unnecessary.

I wouldn't take any oil past 1 year, and will change in 6 months if short-tripping at least half the time.
M1 Ann Prot does look like it can easily do 1 year in most cases. Mobil never showed what the pistons looked like in their test of the 3 DI-turbo engines for 1 year, an omission that was suspect. I guess they still feel the ringlands are OK after a year and 20k miles.

 

[Brons2]

Did the 2012 Sportage use direct injection 2.4 or port injection 2.4? I know that there was a period when some Kia models had DI and some didn't. (now they're all DI but that's beside the point)

If it's the former, I would not extend OCI for a year, these things are spinning rod bearings left and right. I'm using 5w30 in mine and hoping that makes a difference.

The port injected 2.4s are more reliable. I have M1EP in the Rondo and sent it off with stepdaughter to college. I will change in June 2018.

 

[Brons2]

Yes, it has DI

http://www.kiamedia.com/us/en/models/sportage/2012

I don't recommend using M1 AP.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Use Mobil I AFE or perhaps EP. No senses on paying that much for an oil that isn't going to benefit you much better than those oils.

 

[blupupher]

How many miles are driven in the 1 year?
Your previous oil and filter were a great choice, and unless being driven more than 15000 miles in the year, you are probably wasting money on the AP oil, and are definitely downgrading your oil filter.

Plus if you get worried about the oil color, what are you going to do when the AP gets "dirty looking" as well.

 

[bigj_16]

One thing about the $10 e-gift card on the M1AP. It is for the first 30,000 customers. The offer runs out in September, the 8th, I believe.

 

[MobilinHyundia]

Both my 2009 Sonata's oci is 15 000 miles and no problems at all. I have done about 10 UOA and everything shown the engines are in excellant condition.
Before starting thses long oil drain intervals I first took many many pictures of the cylinder heads and cam to compare later to look for excessive wear...nothing.
My driving is about 70 % highway.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

You spent $40 on that?

 

[DavidJones]

Originally Posted By: CrackyWainwright
My son is off at college, so I don't have as much maintenance access to the 2012 KIA Sportage 2.4L he drives. This vehicle has 91,000 miles, and I'm about to change the oil with a fill of M1 AP in the suggested 5W-20 along with the M1 AP filter. WM has the oil for $40 now and the filter for $13.

We'll see if I have the nerve to let that go one full year. For a few years I've been using Castrol Edge EP in our vehicles along with a Fram Ultra 15,000 mile filter, but I get nervous at about the 10,000 mile mark when the oil gets awfully dark and dirty looking.


I'm not trying to be a smart [censored] here but soon after college I suspect your son will completely free of the nest and on his own. At that point he'll probably need to know how to take care of things on his own. Why not use this time to teach him how to take care of his own car, either through showing him how to change his own oil or writing down the mileage it'll need to be changed at and suggesting that he keep up with it himself.
My oldest has no desire to maintain his own vehicles but I've had him with me when I've changed his cars oil. After the first time he rolled out from under the car and said "Now I know what they've done when I pay somebody to change my oil". Fair enough. He graduated 2 years ago and works as a mechanical engineer. He does keep up with his car's oil needs by paying for a change every 5000 miles and checking it from time to time in between. My youngest changes his and his girl friends oil on his own and I've never worried about it. He is a senior in robotics engineering and lives off campus.

 

[CrackyWainwright]

Well you fellows have scared me off of doing the M1 AP and one year OCI in the 2.4 KIA. I hadn't purchased the oil and M1 filter when I first made the original post, so I guess I'll go back to my normal habit of Castrol EP and a Fram Ultra for ~12,000 miles.

Question: Can someone explain to me (I'm not a mechanic) what's DIRECT INJECTION and why it's hard on oil in an engine such as the KIA 2.4? Thanks.

 

[Danh]

Originally Posted By: CrackyWainwright
Well you fellows have scared me off of doing the M1 AP and one year OCI in the 2.4 KIA. I hadn't purchased the oil and M1 filter when I first made the original post, so I guess I'll go back to my normal habit of Castrol EP and a Fram Ultra for ~12,000 miles.

Question: Can someone explain to me (I'm not a mechanic) what's DIRECT INJECTION and why it's hard on oil in an engine such as the KIA 2.4? Thanks.


Traditional port fuel injection injects fuel into the intake manifold where it mixes with air and is inhaled into the combustion chamber. Direct injection injects the fuel directly into the combustion chamber.

The advantages of direct injection are improved fuel economy, more power and more manageable emissions because:

1) The fuel evaporates in the combustion chamber the associated cooling effect occurs there rather than in the intake manifold. This cooler charge allows a higher compression ratio that in turn has fuel economy and power benefits.

2) Direct injection allows more precise timing and metering of injected fuel (sometimes making multiple injections of fuel per stroke), also helping with power, fuel economy and emissions.

The disadvanatages of DI are:

1) Because the fuel/air mixture doesn't wash over the intake valves, carbon deposits can build up as PCV vapors hit the hot valve. This problem seems to have been largely addressed by OEMs, but the worry persists.

2) Despite the overall fuel economy improvement, DI allows largish droplets of fuel to remain unburied, part of which will make their way past the piston rings and wind up diluting the oil in the sump and reducing the oil's viscosity. This is the primary worry with your Kia, as Kia/Hyundai, Honda and some Ford EcoBoost engines seem to be chronic fuel dilution offenders.

3) While not a worry in the US yet, DI engines also have more particulates in their exhaust. Eventually, DI engines may be required to include a particulate filter like diesels.

Fuel dilution is hard to deal with. The only strategies that seem to work are:

1) More frequent oil changes
2) Heavier viscosity oil to compensate for expected dilution
3) Top-tier fuel, perhaps in a higher-than-required octane
4) Avoiding short-tripping, especially in cold weather

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

Originally Posted By: Ddubya
Originally Posted By: JustN89
This is just personal opinion here but with the issues that Hyundai/Kia have had with that 2.4L engine, I wouldn't try to do any extended OCI especially considering that they have upped the warranty (on certain components) to 120K miles. You won't want to exceed the manufacturer's suggested OCI. His Optima falls right in the sweet spot of that recall (2011-2013 for the Optimas). My suggestion would be to just supply him with the 30 dollars or whatever it costs for his local Hyundai/Kia dealership to do the oil change and schedule the appointment for him if needed. Again, just my two cents.


Assuming the vehicle is still covered under the extended or original warranty, I think this is very sound advice. Philosophically, (with a different vehicle) I think there is nothing wrong with your logic. Under similar circumstances, I am about to do the same thing with our Cadillac DTS, except with Castrol Edge EP and a Fram Ultra filter. It has a 7.5qt sump and I'll also run 1 can of Liqui Moly Oil Saver as it has shown a definite benefit in quelling an oil leak that some Northstars get and are famously expensive to repair correctly. I plan to run it out to 18 months or 10-12K miles, whichever comes first.

Your Northstar will keep the oil in it for that long. At 10-12k miles a lot of them will have 5-6 new quarts or more in that time.