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Torquing Rear Control Arms #4462049
07/17/17 04:50 PM
07/17/17 04:50 PM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,181
West Chester, PA
artbuc Offline OP
artbuc  Offline OP
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,181
West Chester, PA
Re: 1999Toyota Avalon

I am replacing the rear control arm assemblies (the ones that adjust toe). I saw or read somewhere that the car weight must be resting on the wheels before you torque to make sure bushings are in correct position. I can not find the reference and wonder if anyone can tell me. It is much easier to torque with car jacked up on stands and tires hanging free but I want to do it the right way. Thanks.

Oh, the arms are 48730 and 48740 on the diagram:

https://parts.toyota.com/a/63045254__6709454/REAR-SPRING--SHOCK-ABSORBER/361410-4804.html

Last edited by artbuc; 07/17/17 04:51 PM.
Re: Torquing Rear Control Arms [Re: artbuc] #4462071
07/17/17 05:20 PM
07/17/17 05:20 PM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 696
California's Wine Country
SLO_Town Offline
SLO_Town  Offline
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 696
California's Wine Country
For all rubber suspension "bushings" you must tighten the attachment bolts with the suspension at it's normal ride height. Do not tighten the attachment bolts with the suspension at full droop, as it is when on jack stands. To do so will twist the rubber bushing relative to the metal sleeve(s) when the vehicle is back at normal ride height. This will lead to premature failure of the bushing.

In the diagram you reference, it appears that bolts 48703E should be tightened with the suspension at its normal right height.

The exception to this rule is when the bushing is an actual "bearing", one where the center sleeve can rotate freely when it's installed on the suspension control arm.

Scott


03 BMW 330Ci (Euro Castrol 0W-30)
10 Honda Element (Kendall GT1 Max 5W-30)
11 BMW 328i (Euro Castrol 0W-30)
15 Ford Focus (Redline 5W-20)
Re: Torquing Rear Control Arms [Re: SLO_Town] #4462106
07/17/17 05:42 PM
07/17/17 05:42 PM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,181
West Chester, PA
artbuc Offline OP
artbuc  Offline OP
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,181
West Chester, PA
Originally Posted By: SLO_Town
For all rubber suspension "bushings" you must tighten the attachment bolts with the suspension at it's normal ride height. Do not tighten the attachment bolts with the suspension at full droop, as it is when on jack stands. To do so will twist the rubber bushing relative to the metal sleeve(s) when the vehicle is back at normal ride height. This will lead to premature failure of the bushing.

In the diagram you reference, it appears that bolts 48703E should be tightened with the suspension at its normal right height.

The exception to this rule is when the bushing is an actual "bearing", one where the center sleeve can rotate freely when it's installed on the suspension control arm.

Scott


Thanks. I found the reference which confirms your advice. I will have to check but I think the design of these arms is the bearing type you call out as an exception.

Re: Torquing Rear Control Arms [Re: artbuc] #4462188
07/17/17 06:59 PM
07/17/17 06:59 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17,501
Clovis, CA
Merkava_4 Offline
Merkava_4  Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17,501
Clovis, CA
It's got rubber bushings for the control arms; I can see them in the drawing. You need to back the car up on Rhino ramps (or something similar) before you do the final tightening. If you're thin enough to get under their while the car is on the floor, that's even better. A four post lift is the easiest way if you got one of those in your garage.

Re: Torquing Rear Control Arms [Re: artbuc] #4462215
07/17/17 07:27 PM
07/17/17 07:27 PM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,798
Central Washington
Colt45ws Offline
Colt45ws  Offline
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,798
Central Washington
I like to get the weight of the car down on the ground, and bounce the suspension a few times to make sure its settled before reefing on the bolts.


-Colton
2002 Ford Crown Vic PI 207k, Ex-Kootenai County, ID Unit #42
Down for engine swap
2003 Ford Crown Vic PI 75k
Castrol EDGE HM 5W30, Fram XG2
Re: Torquing Rear Control Arms [Re: Merkava_4] #4462447
07/18/17 03:05 AM
07/18/17 03:05 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,181
West Chester, PA
artbuc Offline OP
artbuc  Offline OP
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,181
West Chester, PA
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It's got rubber bushings for the control arms; I can see them in the drawing. You need to back the car up on Rhino ramps (or something similar) before you do the final tightening. If you're thin enough to get under their while the car is on the floor, that's even better. A four post lift is the easiest way if you got one of those in your garage.


The ones I am replacing definitely have bearing bushings instead of fixed bushings. I don't know if the companion control arms 48710 and 48720 also have bearing bushings. Both arms are torqued with the same bolt so I have to determine that.

Last edited by artbuc; 07/18/17 03:09 AM.
Re: Torquing Rear Control Arms [Re: artbuc] #4462599
07/18/17 08:42 AM
07/18/17 08:42 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,181
West Chester, PA
artbuc Offline OP
artbuc  Offline OP
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,181
West Chester, PA
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It's got rubber bushings for the control arms; I can see them in the drawing. You need to back the car up on Rhino ramps (or something similar) before you do the final tightening. If you're thin enough to get under their while the car is on the floor, that's even better. A four post lift is the easiest way if you got one of those in your garage.


The ones I am replacing definitely have bearing bushings instead of fixed bushings. I don't know if the companion control arms 48710 and 48720 also have bearing bushings. Both arms are torqued with the same bolt so I have to determine that.


Ok, both control arms rotate freely as you would expect considering how much movement they see. Thanks to all for your input.


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