New Shop Oil

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Federated Auto Parts Heavy Duty 30. Made by Amalie out of Tampa, Florida. Interestingly, Amalie uses the old Witco Kendall/Amalie part numbering system. I'm probably going to start using this oil in the Roadmaster and keep my old spec GT-1 as a keepsake.
 
The old Amalie/Kendall numbering system was 527-xxxx for quarts,539-**** for gallons,608-xxxx for 5 gallons.Not the 160-xxxxx numbering system used today.
 
The numbering system on the case is 527-xxxx.
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Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Shop oil? For what, mowers? I would be leery of a shop that used that in a modern auto engine.


+1000

10w30 or 5w30 would be BETTER choice
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You would be leary of a shop that uses an API SN SAE 30 oil in classic cars, beaters, and work vehicles that get run dry between oil changes?

I have multigrades available in semi and full synthetic for newer stuff.
 
I'm sure in the summertime in the South that straight 30 would be fine in cars spec'd for 5w30 or 10w30.

"Cold" starts in the morning usually around 75-80 F. Afternoon 90-105F. The engine is warm even before you start it.
 
Originally Posted By: Red91
You would be leary of a shop that uses an API SN SAE 30 oil in classic cars, beaters, and work vehicles that get run dry between oil changes?

I have multigrades available in semi and full synthetic for newer stuff.


Alabama gets significantly colder than where I live in the winter (seriously). SAE30 is fine for summer. What if they dont drive much, and end up with that oil in the winter? Yes it has its applications, but they are few and far between. Like mowers, antique (parade) cars, etc. Beater work truck? 15W40 would be a better choice. Beater car? 10W30 or 10W40 would be a better choice. I LOVE me some beaters, and have owned plenty of them in my lifetime. In fact, at 34 years old, I have owned over 30 cars, many of them ultra beaters that cost $100. I would be EXTREMELY disappointed in a shop and calling it unprofessional if they installed SAE30 in any car I have ever driven. And this is coming from a guy that had his own small engine shop and did hundreds of oil changes per year. A professional shop uses what the auto manufacturer calls for, unless the customer requests otherwise. Yes, even in beaters. Classic cars are another thing.
 
You also have to consider that most modern monograde 30 oils pass cold flow test for 15W, without using VII's. So really by using a straight 30wt you are using a superior product to any 5W or 10W-30 conventional.

Monogrades have entered the 21st century just like their multigrade counterparts.
 
It wouldn't surprise me a bit that this SAE 30 is just 10w30 in an SAE 30 jug. Even if it's not I wouldn't be surprised if it still passed the w requirements for 15w anyway. What's not to like about an SAE 30/40/50? Shear stability is probably outstanding probably low NOACK as well. I currently have VWB SAE30 in my 4Runner and ran PYB SAE 30 in my Lexus ES330 for 5,515 miles. UOA for the Lexus was delivered to Blackstone today.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Shop oil? For what, mowers? I would be leery of a shop that used that in a modern auto engine.


Dude?!? *You* live in Florida.... he's in ALABAMA!

Why are you hatin' when it never gets cold in either location? (don't tell me 40*F is cold, either)

It's SN oil..... What more do you WANT?
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
It's SN oil..... What more do you WANT?


I want oil change shops to be professional. Part of that is running the viscosity oil that the manufacturer calls for, unless the owner request otherwise. Sure its Alabama. Does it not drop into the teens and twenties in Alabama? What if that customers car ends up in a North Dakota oil field a few months later? The customer in that case would have been let down by this shop, by installing an incorrect viscosity oil, probably without the customers consent.

I am WELL aware that SAE30 is fine for summer in Florida and Alabama. Cars have a tendency to travel. Can we be certain that it wont ever travel north? Or in winter?
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
let down by this shop, by installing an incorrect viscosity oil, probably without the customers consent.


I don't see anywhere that he says it's put in cars "without the customer's consent"?!?
 
I'm going to have to believe bubbatime on this one. If I was stupid enough to put SAE 30 in one of our 2500 Chevy trucks, I'd be fired on the spot. I have used 10w30 and continue to use 5w30 also in my car.
 
Originally Posted By: Red91
You also have to consider that most modern monograde 30 oils pass cold flow test for 15W, without using VII's. So really by using a straight 30wt you are using a superior product to any 5W or 10W-30 conventional.

Monogrades have entered the 21st century just like their multigrade counterparts.


I want some FACTS to back up this load of b.s.

That statement is so wrong on all levels as no cars I work on even "recommend"
 
Oh, BTW... A while back...
I had an unopened gallon jug of Rotella T1 straight 30 spring a leak, so I dumped it in my F-150 & then drove 380 miles to pick up a 24' 5th wheel travel trailer and brought it back the same miles, with the A/C on, in Texas July heat. My truck oil cap says 5W-20.

I absolutely guarantee you I didn't hurt that engine. I think I kept that oil in until November.
 
Originally Posted By: car51

I want some FACTS to back up this load of b.s.
That statement is so wrong on all levels as no cars I work on even "recommend"


Chill out, Adam.

There's a lot of GOOD things about straight 30 that 10W-30 can't touch, like resistance to shear.

I suggest you research it a little more before you blow your top.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: car51

I want some FACTS to back up this load of b.s.
That statement is so wrong on all levels as no cars I work on even "recommend"


Chill out, Adam.

There's a lot of GOOD things about straight 30 that 10W-30 can't touch, like resistance to shear.

I suggest you research it a little more before you blow your top.


I understand what my real dad mentioned that diesels used to always use SAE 40. I have contemplated using
Some DELO 400 SAE 30 in my 96' Bonneville for mild weather.

Do you mean it resists shear better in summer weather or cold weather sir?

Thanks in advance
 
Superior wear resistance on top of shear stability, lower NOACK, lower VII content, etc.
I think Shannow posted the chart a gazillion times here.

From a practical standpoint, I have used it in a Ford CVPI (calls for 5W-20) on one of those lengthy WA-FL roadtrips we make every year. A little over 7,400 miles - I just had to use a stash then...
 
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