Oil Temperature and moisture

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with all this talk about engine temp and whether to run a hot thermostat or not. What does everyone think the min temp for engine oil to reach to get rid of condensation and water. Im not talking about going on short rides. I mean an hour drive, at what temp should the oil/coolant be to safely burn off the water.
 
Interesting question. The answer of "30 minutes at normal operating temp" is a standard answer, but what is "normal"?
195°F coolant temp does not always equal "normal" oil temp.
 
Don't quote me, but I seem to recall a sustained 160F measured in the sump is good for cooking off moisture. Obviously the hotter the better, so maybe that isn't such a good answer, but it's the one in my head. Oil is pretty happy at around 220F, but ideally not much higher.

Plus there is the issue of where, exactly, you are measuring the oil temperature. There will be a wide variation, even in the same motor, depending on where you are picking up the temp.

That's why they say to watch your oil temperature when it goes higher than the typical number for your vehicle, rather than giving a specific temperature to watch for.

If I were concerned about it (I'm not) and wanted more info, I'd be looking at the higher reputation oil cooler manufacturers for guidance, so that's where I would be pointing my Google search terms.

Moroso
Derale
Setrab
Canton
... and some of the Hot Rod people.
 
My oil runs 20-40F hotter than the 180F coolant on my Gen Coupe 2L turbo. But water evaporates at about any temperature, especially when the PCV system is pulling fresh air into the motor.
 
I have a 2.3l quad 4. so thermal cycling and high heat were killers of these motors. But I'm just hoping the 160 degree thermostat will keep the car warm enough without creating increased engine wear.
 
There's a MSc thesis on oil-life monitoring algorithms (2nd one down in the "interesting papers" forum) that I thought would answer this question, but from a quick look it doesn't, though I might have missed it.

Tests on short-tripping are discussed in terms of ambient temperatures, rather than actual oil temperatures. (25C ambient is said to prevent water accumulation).

The algorithm implemented assumes an optimum temperature of 80C, though water accumulation is only one of the factors mentioned.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
The algorithm implemented assumes an optimum temperature of 80C, though water accumulation is only one of the factors mentioned.


The range of 80 deg C (176 deg F) to 140 deg C (284 deg F) works the best.
Backup_199901_Graphics_GM2.gif

From Noria http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/77/gm's-oil-life-system-improves-timing-of-oil-change
 
I think I'm going to get a oil temp gauge and stick it in the oil pan next oil change, and keep an eye on the temps. The oil gets changed at 3,000 miles no matter what anyways, its not a daily driver. So I'm thinking even at a 160 thermostat the oil is reaching 176. Unless its mostly highway driving then I'm not sure.
 
actually it looks like I may not do that. It seems to be a PITA to get one adapted to the drain plug, ill have to do some more looking around.
 
Originally Posted By: LZ1989
actually it looks like I may not do that. It seems to be a PITA to get one adapted to the drain plug, ill have to do some more looking around.


Get a multimeter with a type K thermocouple....do your thing, pull over, and drop the thermocouple down the dipstick hole which is into the area of drainback from the reciprocating/rotating assembly...cheap enough, and you'll be surprised.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: LZ1989
actually it looks like I may not do that. It seems to be a PITA to get one adapted to the drain plug, ill have to do some more looking around.


Get a multimeter with a type K thermocouple....do your thing, pull over, and drop the thermocouple down the dipstick hole which is into the area of drainback from the reciprocating/rotating assembly...cheap enough, and you'll be surprised.



Wow that is a good idea actually, Ill have to do that!
 
It's not so much about oil temperature as length of run. 80 C (176 F) is more than enough to get rid of condensation as long as the engine is not used only on short runs.
 
Originally Posted By: LZ1989
I have a 2.3l quad 4. so thermal cycling and high heat were killers of these motors. But I'm just hoping the 160 degree thermostat will keep the car warm enough without creating increased engine wear.


FWIW I think it depends on how far 'upstate' you are--equal to, or north of Albany, I doubt the 160 will be enough to get you sufficient heat inside the car
Steve
 
My X5 has an oil cooler with thermostat from the factory. The oil stays in a very narrow window of 210-220 F. I would trust that BMW knew what they were doing with setting the temperature. FWIW, the engine coolant stays in a range of 190-205 F.
 
Replace your dipstick with a meat thermometer?

Here's a fancy electrickery one that gives a choice of
square-1427828098-cuisinart-digital-meat-thermometer-ctg-00-dtm.jpg
those F-ing units so popular hereabouts.



I've seen a wireless =-enabled one somewhere which would give you real-time remote monitoring.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
My X5 has an oil cooler with thermostat from the factory. The oil stays in a very narrow window of 210-220 F. I would trust that BMW knew what they were doing with setting the temperature. FWIW, the engine coolant stays in a range of 190-205 F.


Even on a track?
laugh.gif
 
Lol a meet thermometer wouldn't be long enough. well actually there are turkey ones with a long wire i never thought of using that.... But i ordered a multimeter with a temp probe on it. 160 could be fine for some environments, I'm just hoping its ok for mine with the humidity the way it is and what not.
 
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