Permatex Rust Treatment...

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I haven't had success, even with mildly rusty hand tools that were put back in a drawer. OTOH I haven't tried topcoating it.
 
I did something similar just the other day to my 2012 Nissan Pathfinder I had very little rust but wanted to keep it that way. The whole key is in the prep if the coating will stick or not did you prep the serfice at all? With my frame I washed it with a rag and CRC brake clean to remove any oil or dirt before spraying with a high grade Ruberized undercoating.

Some say not to use Ruberized undercoating and others say that is what you should use? So we will see how it holds up I really think it's all in the prep. What is the Permatex coating? Is it a paint or Ruberized undercoating?
 
The key to it in the rust belt is to keep up with it you should check it every year hear in Massachusetts the brine they use on the roads is 12 times more corrosive then rock salt cars and trucks show rust so quickly after purchase it's crazy!
 
But did/can you get the stuff inside the frame? That's the key.

I need to redo mines too. Been using Fluid Film because I can get it sprayed inside the little holes of the frame.
 
Originally Posted By: ZebRuaj
But did/can you get the stuff inside the frame? That's the key.

I need to redo mines too. Been using Fluid Film because I can get it sprayed inside the little holes of the frame.


Yes getting it inside the frame is the key! One of the best products to use inside and outside the frame is Cosmoline you can buy it in cans or larger quantities and you don't have to reapply it every year just touch up some areas. My next new car or truck I will give it a complete Cosmoline treatment.
 
Originally Posted By: ZebRuaj
But did/can you get the stuff inside the frame? That's the key.

I need to redo mines too. Been using Fluid Film because I can get it sprayed inside the little holes of the frame.


Yep! They rust from the inside out
 
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Guys. This is a rust converter, not an undercoat...


Correct and a good primer and top coat over it is a very good idea. A top coat alone is OK, a primer and top coat is even better.
 
can somebody explain what am I supposed to learn from the 4 pictures posted? is there some previous context such as one side got rust treatment 2 years ago etc?
 
it's some sort of acid that coverts rust to a protective blob of whatever..looks like black burnt plastic..the most important parts to protect are in the wheel wells especially suspension mounts..here's a linky


Permatex Rust Treatment
 
I just knocked the loose flakes off with a small chisel the compressed air to clean it up..it converts the rust so probably requires some to activate.
 
The Permatex stuff is like Loctite Extend. It acts as a primer but needs a top coat.

This will make your frame look better but is not a substitute for having the entire vehicle treated with Krown/FF/CarWell.
 
ITW says 'Tough coating serves as an excellent protective primer that you can paint over'.... so I read a topcoat is optional but not required.
 
all the four pictures taken on the same day? then what does it prove? come back in few years and then show us if it is going to do any good.
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
ITW says 'Tough coating serves as an excellent protective primer that you can paint over'.... so I read a topcoat is optional but not required.


I've used and tested these products, if you want it to last a primer and top coat is the way to go. Leaving it as it will result in rust, especially in the rust belt, painting over it will result in rust, only it takes longer. Priming over it and painting it yield the best results.
 
working the mid frame today..I'll have about $50 of Permatex applied, half aerosol to brush on. This frame has many years to go with or without, but any applied impediment must be beneficial toward the end.




 
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