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Fasteners on exhaust systems #4458129
07/13/17 10:57 AM
07/13/17 10:57 AM
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 212
NY
greasegunn Offline OP
greasegunn  Offline OP

Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 212
NY
I've search the internet but I can't seem to find a good answer so I've turned to the wisdom of the Forum.

A stud has broken off on the flange between the muffler and the exhaust pipe. I plan to simply drill out the stud and replace with a nut and bolt. What I'm not clear on is if a special grade or alloy of fastener is preferred or required. This is on the stock exhaust of a 2012 Mazda 6. Thanks for your help.

Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: greasegunn] #4458145
07/13/17 11:09 AM
07/13/17 11:09 AM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
ohio
jjw6455 Offline
jjw6455  Offline

Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
ohio
Something non rusting (stainless ?).

ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING : EXHAUST SYSTEM
Number 10097841
NHTSA Item Number 01-025-12-2699
Date 2017-04-25
Summary Some vehicles may exhibit an exhaust leaking noise from the rear of the vehicle. The noise may be caused by a gap between the exhaust hanger bracket and flange, which allows moisture to enter and cause the exhaust studs to rust and possibly

Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: greasegunn] #4458168
07/13/17 11:34 AM
07/13/17 11:34 AM
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 9,560
Boston, MA
HerrStig Offline
HerrStig  Offline

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 9,560
Boston, MA
The shops often blow the stud out with a torch. Makes an ugly hole but it works.

Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: greasegunn] #4458189
07/13/17 11:50 AM
07/13/17 11:50 AM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 21,229
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Trav Offline
Trav  Offline

Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 21,229
MA, Mittelfranken.de
If you drill right through use a high grade bolt, stainless doesn't have as much shear strength but you can use a stainless or copper nut and stainless washer. Next time just blow the nut off with a torch if you cant get it off.

Last edited by Trav; 07/13/17 11:51 AM.

ASE L1, Master. Deutsch Meisterbrief.
Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: greasegunn] #4458193
07/13/17 11:53 AM
07/13/17 11:53 AM
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,169
Saskatchewan, Canada
Johnny2Bad Offline
Johnny2Bad  Offline

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,169
Saskatchewan, Canada
Because the muffler is reasonably far from the highest heat areas, you have some options. Distance from the catalytic converter is key ... it's the last high heat component of the exhaust. Three or more feet and you should be OK with a wider choice of fastener.

You can try a regular steel bolt and nut, use anti-sieze on it but don't expect that to last long with the temps experienced. Grade 5 should be good and many systems use plain grade 3 at the back of the exhaust.

If appearance is important use stainless but they are not as strong as a high grade steel fastener. Brass is an option but be careful, they fail at a relatively low torque. However brass is least affected by corrosion.


'57 FL Straight 50 wt
'90 Miata 1.8L w/Rotrex Supercharger [Mobil1 0W-40]
'96 Ram 1500 [3.7L Mobil1 0W-20 / 1L 15W-50]
'01 PT Cruiser [Mobil1 0W-40]
Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: greasegunn] #4458230
07/13/17 12:35 PM
07/13/17 12:35 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 506
Utah, USA
28oz Offline
28oz  Offline

Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 506
Utah, USA
Right or wrong, I've always used grade 8 hardware when replacing anything exhaust-wise. Never had an issue with it.


-----------------
1990 Nissan 300zx VG30DE - PP Euro 0W-40
2004 Nissan Quest VQ35DE - PP Euro 0W-40
2003 Ford Excursion 7.3 PSD - Rotella T6 5W-40
2005 Ford Taurus 3.0 Vulcan - Havoline HM 5W-20
Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: 28oz] #4458242
07/13/17 12:49 PM
07/13/17 12:49 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,937
N.Ohio
Lubener Offline
Lubener  Offline

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,937
N.Ohio
Originally Posted By: 28oz
Right or wrong, I've always used grade 8 hardware when replacing anything exhaust-wise. Never had an issue with it.


Most shops use grade 2. I never heard anyone having issues with exhaust fasteners breaking on their own.Maybe after many years.

Last edited by Lubener; 07/13/17 12:51 PM.

The "thinking" man's friend.
Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: greasegunn] #4458248
07/13/17 12:58 PM
07/13/17 12:58 PM
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 7,991
Waco, TX
Linctex Offline
Linctex  Offline

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 7,991
Waco, TX
Any steel bolt will work, and should last nearly 10 years. You must have a LOT of salt!

No need to go exotic.

Last edited by Linctex; 07/13/17 12:58 PM.

"The evidence demands a verdict".
(Re:VOA)"it's nearly impossible to actually know the particular additives that are in there at what concentrations."
Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: greasegunn] #4458293
07/13/17 01:55 PM
07/13/17 01:55 PM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,007
Marshfield , MA
andyd Offline
andyd  Offline

Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,007
Marshfield , MA
I use grade 2 hardware. I replace the U Clamps and hope they shear after a few yanks


'16 Camry LE STP synth 0w20 and STP filter. the Fridge

1994 Ranger ,the Rat, 5w30 dino, STP filter

'16 Camry SE, Valvoline HM 0w20 and OEM filter
Thick oil is better grin2
Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: Lubener] #4458296
07/13/17 01:59 PM
07/13/17 01:59 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 506
Utah, USA
28oz Offline
28oz  Offline

Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 506
Utah, USA
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Originally Posted By: 28oz
Right or wrong, I've always used grade 8 hardware when replacing anything exhaust-wise. Never had an issue with it.


Most shops use grade 2. I never heard anyone having issues with exhaust fasteners breaking on their own.Maybe after many years.


Grade 2? Might as well use zip ties! Joking..... I use grade 8 'cause if it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing. laugh


-----------------
1990 Nissan 300zx VG30DE - PP Euro 0W-40
2004 Nissan Quest VQ35DE - PP Euro 0W-40
2003 Ford Excursion 7.3 PSD - Rotella T6 5W-40
2005 Ford Taurus 3.0 Vulcan - Havoline HM 5W-20
Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: greasegunn] #4458312
07/13/17 02:12 PM
07/13/17 02:12 PM
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 12,873
The Motor City
Kestas Offline
Global Moderator
Kestas  Offline
Global Moderator

Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 12,873
The Motor City
I wouldn't use anything over Grade 2. Strength is not the issue. Getting it apart when it's rusted solid is the main concern. It's easier to cut or drill soft fasteners.

What is the benefit of using Grade 8?

Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: Kestas] #4458327
07/13/17 02:21 PM
07/13/17 02:21 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 506
Utah, USA
28oz Offline
28oz  Offline

Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 506
Utah, USA
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I wouldn't use anything over Grade 2. Strength is not the issue. Getting it apart when it's rusted solid is the main concern. It's easier to cut or drill soft fasteners.

What is the benefit of using Grade 8?


Talked to a muffler shop about it once and that is what they used and recommended. I'm no metallurgist, but there might be more corrosion resistance perhaps? Lower grades would definitely be easier to cut or drill, but if a stronger bolt/nut doesn't break, you wouldn't need to cut or drill to begin with. I could be completely wrong, but it's worked for me.


-----------------
1990 Nissan 300zx VG30DE - PP Euro 0W-40
2004 Nissan Quest VQ35DE - PP Euro 0W-40
2003 Ford Excursion 7.3 PSD - Rotella T6 5W-40
2005 Ford Taurus 3.0 Vulcan - Havoline HM 5W-20
Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: 28oz] #4458337
07/13/17 02:32 PM
07/13/17 02:32 PM
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 12,873
The Motor City
Kestas Offline
Global Moderator
Kestas  Offline
Global Moderator

Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 12,873
The Motor City
Originally Posted By: 28oz
I'm no metallurgist, but there might be more corrosion resistance perhaps? Lower grades would definitely be easier to cut or drill, but if a stronger bolt/nut doesn't break, you wouldn't need to cut or drill to begin with. I could be completely wrong, but it's worked for me.

I am a metallurgist. Grade 8 offers no more corrosion resistance than a Grade 2. In fact it may even be worse.

You don't cut and drill because an exhaust system bolt breaks, you do it because it is rusted solid.

Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: Kestas] #4458352
07/13/17 02:51 PM
07/13/17 02:51 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 506
Utah, USA
28oz Offline
28oz  Offline

Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 506
Utah, USA
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Originally Posted By: 28oz
I'm no metallurgist, but there might be more corrosion resistance perhaps? Lower grades would definitely be easier to cut or drill, but if a stronger bolt/nut doesn't break, you wouldn't need to cut or drill to begin with. I could be completely wrong, but it's worked for me.

I am a metallurgist. Grade 8 offers no more corrosion resistance than a Grade 2. In fact it may even be worse.

You don't cut and drill because an exhaust system bolt breaks, you do it because it is rusted solid.


I've drilled out plenty of broken studs. Anyways, fair enough. You're a metallurgist, so I will defer to your opinion. I'm completely open to being told I'm wrong, lol. That's how you learn, right? The grade 8 hardware I've replaced still looks brand new after a couple years whereas others have rust very shortly. shrug


-----------------
1990 Nissan 300zx VG30DE - PP Euro 0W-40
2004 Nissan Quest VQ35DE - PP Euro 0W-40
2003 Ford Excursion 7.3 PSD - Rotella T6 5W-40
2005 Ford Taurus 3.0 Vulcan - Havoline HM 5W-20
Re: Fasteners on exhaust systems [Re: greasegunn] #4458364
07/13/17 03:03 PM
07/13/17 03:03 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 642
USA
E365 Online content
E365  Online Content

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 642
USA
What's the take on nickel based anti-seize compounds on exhaust hardware? The super high temp stuff. I've used it lately, but not long enough to know if it really helps long-term.


Whatever’s on sale...
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