6500 watt portable generators:

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How do the cheaper models like Generac hold up with occasional once a year use for power failures, if maintained in the anal BITOG fashion?
 
The oil will last ten years with "occasional emergency" use, I know this to be a fact from experience.

The fuel system needs the most attention. Use E-0 gas if you can find it, and always use Sta-Bil or Pri-G in the fuel if it's going to be stored for long periods of time.
 
Of all the "old" generators I have (20+ years old), only the Briggs engined ones are still alive. The ones with Honda engines are absolutely OUTSTANDING.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
The oil will last ten years with "occasional emergency" use, I know this to be a fact from experience.

The fuel system needs the most attention. Use E-0 gas if you can find it, and always use Sta-Bil or Pri-G in the fuel if it's going to be stored for long periods of time.

Don't forget to shut the fuel off and run the carb dry also.
 
Most should be fine for 10 yrs. Test them 2x year and I always used stabilized E0. I have since gone to propane.

Before buying figure out the critical circuits and the peak and running load. A clamp-on ammeter will help.

And plan a way to use it to power the critical circuits without back feeding.
 
*I'm an electrician.
Thanks though, you don't want to toast a lineman or your home wiring for people reading this.
 
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Originally Posted By: Oil_Flunky
How do the cheaper models like Generac hold up with occasional once a year use for power failures, if maintained in the anal BITOG fashion?




It will be fine for that kind of use.

If you've taken care of your fuel and fuel system appropriately as was posted earlier.

Note: It will be noisy, thirsty power outage however this unit roars at a fixed constant RPM and swigs fuel like a drunken sailor.

You can get an idea of the relative quality of any given unit by looking the valve lash inspection interval it carries.

Yahamhas, Hondas, and Subarus typically have the longest intervals. - no surprise.

Typically its a 3X spread between the cheapie and the good ones.

UD
 
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Also depending upon the neighborhood you want 1/2" chain and a quality padlock along with a Rottweiler. And a CO detector.

If the place where you live is known as a "hood" then up it to 3/4" chain and two Rottweilers.
 
You should have an electrician install a manual transfer switch. Alternately have a power plug to your furnace, instead of having it hard wired. You can run extension cords for the remainder of your devices. Also make sure that the generator has voltage regulation if your don't want to burn out your motors and refrigerator compressors.
 
You should be more than fine with that unit, but if you don't mind me asking, why so large? Electric water heat perhaps? Hoping to start a window air conditioner?

I use a Champion 3500 watt unit to power all of my essential circuits, but then I have gas on the stove and hot water heater. Both of those items are still on essential circuits, because both rely upon electric ingnitors. My gas furnace is also considered an essential circuit, and I have run the heat with a power outage. I've also run the dishwasher with heated dry cycle during a power outage.

The outlet in the bathroom where the Misses plugs in her hair dryer is also considered an essential circuit. Some of you will get that; the rest of you probably aren't married!
 
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If you have a wife and several kids, 6500 watts provides for a lot of comfort and amenities.

3500 watts is still very usable, if you "manage your loads" and are very good about shedding a large load before bringing on another one
 
I have a 2500 watt/3250 surge "chonda" that's been around since a month after Hurricane Irene. (Sold my old B&S clunker during the hype.)

The little rubber fuel hose is starting to decompose. No other problems. 11 month old E10 gas with a bunch of sta bil, still starts right up.

I wiggle the little fuel line off the carb to drain the tank and put fresh fuel in occasionally. The chinese rubber doesn't like doing this all that much.

I have a 4-position transfer switch that wires in after the main breaker box, for the essential loads. This way I didn't have to have the PoCo pull the meter for a full-house switch.

IMO 6500 watts is overkill and will guzzle gas, which is another hassle. Aside from the hassle it's 8-10x as expensive to make your own than to buy.
 
I'm not so sure about the "gas guzzling". Sure, small generators are fuel conserving, but generators only use fuel based on load. No load, little fuel consumption; full load ... well, if you sized it right, you probably need the capacity.
 
Yah, I have a 35 yr old Coleman 5KW with a Tecumseh hm100 10 hp. If I can get it started, it has recoil, and keep it running. It will manage everything essential. The unit has less than 80 hrs on it. I have to fish or cut bait with it. Fix or replace.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
I'm not so sure about the "gas guzzling". Sure, small generators are fuel conserving, but generators only use fuel based on load. No load, little fuel consumption; full load ... well, if you sized it right, you probably need the capacity.


volumetric efficiency and all that... ideally one would be at 60-80% of max load with your typical gas engine. The "crude" ones run at 3600 RPM to make 60 cycle power so you have the drag of the fan and whatnot.

Kill-a-Watt meters are telling, particularly about duty cycles of refrigerators. My fridge does way more than turn on and off-- it has a sub-200 watt consumption mode that I'm not sure how it works.
 
I run a HF Predator 6500/5500 for back up power. I purchased it three years ago and now have approximately 140 hours on it. When I had no shop power, I used it for lighting and everything else. Worked just fine running my welders also. Lost power for three days two winters ago. Ran the fridge, deep freezer, Furnace and all the lights and other stuff we needed. Very happy with the $450 purchase.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil_Flunky
A/C motor start current in rush is 30 amps a leg, that's why a 6500 watt is needed.

6500 Watts should handle a locked rotor amperage (LRA) of 30 amps with ease. Some available advice indicates that you can get by with 70% or 21 amps due to the voltage drop associated with starting an inductive load.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil_Flunky
How do the cheaper models like Generac hold up with occasional once a year use for power failures, if maintained in the anal BITOG fashion?






They will hold up as good as any if maintained as you say and you can deal with rubber/soft part failures.

They will not be as quiet, smooth, fuel efficient or likely last as long as a true Honda, Yamaha, etc. Then again, they're only ~25% of the cost of one.
 
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Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Originally Posted By: Oil_Flunky
A/C motor start current in rush is 30 amps a leg, that's why a 6500 watt is needed.

6500 Watts should handle a locked rotor amperage (LRA) of 30 amps with ease. Some available advice indicates that you can get by with 70% or 21 amps due to the voltage drop associated with starting an inductive load.


I was using generator manufacturer spec for the load that needed serving. http://gens.generac.com/generaccorporate...00.pdf?ext=.pdf YMMV
 
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