2006 Buick CX Lacrosse 3.8l - Preventive Maintenan

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We bought this car a week or two ago . 37,000 + miles on the clock . in nice shape , as far as I can tell .

So , I am attempting some DIY PM .

Considering it is 11 years old , rubber and plastic tend to go bad with age & heat . I am replacing the 2 radiator hoses . The lower hose was a real bear . Ended up removing the battery & tray to gain better access to the 2 spring hose clamps . Has to cut the OEM hose in the middle so I could treat this hose as 2 separate pieces . This enabled me to twist / wiggle the hose ends to position the 2 " tabs " on the spring clamps to be more accessible to pliers .

I do not like spring hose clamps ! Replace the ones on the lower hose with screw / worm gear type clamps .

While the battery tray is out , I wire brushed it and painted it with Duplicolor black " Rust Remedy " spray paint . Hope this will forstall further corrosion ( it really was not in very bad shape ) .

Plan to replace the serpentine belt . Replaced the 2 plastic " heater elbows " with metal elbows .

Plan to replace the thermostat / gasket . When all the coolant related items are finished , will refill with fresh / new coolant .

Used 2 different Walmart $ 2 turkey basters . One to remove Power Steering fluid & the other to remove brake fluid . Then refill with clean / new fluid . ( By the way , the PS pump is located kind of under the alternator area of the firewall side of the passenger side of the engine compartment . Very big pain to get to . :-(

Replace the hood assist " struts " .

Purchased a transmission filter & gasket . Ordered full synthetic Dexron VI & hope to do a spill & fill before the weather turns cold , this winter . Thinking about adding a Dorman steel transmission pan with a drain plug .

Tires look to be 50% or better . Dealer said they changed oil before I took delivery . Bought 5 of the $ 10 - 5 quart dino oil on sale at Home Depot . One oil filter at Wally World . Plan to order sever ( stretch out the freight cost ) filters from RockAuto.com .

Does any one know if the suspension has grease zerts ? I have a grease gun .

Thanks for listening .

Need to order a dash mat .
 
Ive read that the turkey baster method does not work with brake fluid. I do use the same method for PS fluid though.

How about a inline transmission filter or cooler?
 
I change ALL fluids as soon as I get the car home,before ever driving it again. The weekend I brought my Accord home,I changed the oil,transmission fluid,coolant,brake fluid,and power steering fluid.
 
Turkey baster does not remove anywhere near all of the fluid . Need to drive it a while & repeat .

Do not know why it has a problem with brake fluid ? Seems to work for me ?

Thought about an external ATF cooler in front of the radiator .

Also thought of the in line filter . Less familiar with it than the external cooler . The question of pressure drop comes to my mind . How often is it recommended to be changed out ?

Thanks ,
 
Brake fluid doesn't circulate .The master cylinder pushes fluid to the wheel cylinders when the brake pedal is pushed . when the brake pedal is released the pressure drops and the brakes release. Like a syringe connected by a hose to another syringe. Noooooooooooo dash mat.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I change ALL fluids as soon as I get the car home,before ever driving it again. The weekend I brought my Accord home,I changed the oil,transmission fluid,coolant,brake fluid,and power steering fluid.


Not a bad idea .

Being an old fat man , I kind of have to pace myself . Have not driven it very much since taking delivery . I mostly drive a company pick up & wife drives our little red Chevy Sonic .

Will drive it more after I retire & loose the company truck .

Thanks , :)
 
It is nice having a company vehicle . I cry for 2 hours before starting any project
 
Yes , you are correct , yet it would seem there must be a little migration of fluid ?

The turkey baster should be better than nothing . However , I can see the best thing would be to jack each wheel up , one at a time & bleed the wheel cylinder / caliper via the bleed screw .

The old fat man does not move along like he once die .

Thanks , :)
 
The company truck cost me zero & I drive it as I wish .

Can not get much better than that ! :)

I too am subject to procrastination before I start a project . :-(
 
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Yes , you are correct , yet it would seem there must be a little migration of fluid ?

The turkey baster should be better than nothing . However , I can see the best thing would be to jack each wheel up , one at a time & bleed the wheel cylinder / caliper via the bleed screw .

The old fat man does not move along like he once die .

Thanks , :)


The water is absorbed into the brake fluid and distributed throughout the fluid. So eventually you can get most of the water out, but that would take a long time and countless gallons of fluid.
Think of simple diffusion.
 
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Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
I do not like spring hose clamps !


They're actually very manageable with the right tool. They also keep a constant tension on the hose even if the hose shrinks.
 
I am sure you are correct .

I never have the right tools . Bought 2 new long needle nose pliers for the task . One with " bent " nose & the other with straight nose .

Also used vice-grips and channel locks .

Please tell me , what should I use ? Hopefully , that is available locally ( not have to special order ? ) .

Of course , I hope I will not need them again for a whilr .

But our little red Sonic uses spring clamps , also . :-(

Thanks , :)
 
If you feel the brake fluid needs attention, why not do it right and bleed the system? The new fluid will just stay in the M/C and will not find its way down to where it's needed most, downstream.
 
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I change ALL fluids as soon as I get the car home,before ever driving it again. The weekend I brought my Accord home,I changed the oil,transmission fluid,coolant,brake fluid,and power steering fluid.


Not a bad idea .



Yes it is/I don't.

New-to-me used car is an unknown quantity and a potential gotcha. I wait and see if I've made a terrible mistake before I spend any more money on it.

Of course if you never make terrible mistakes, then this tactic won't be relevant, but I have, and do.
 
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Originally Posted By: Lubener
If you feel the brake fluid needs attention, why not do it right and bleed the system? The new fluid will just stay in the M/C and will not find its way down to where it's needed most, downstream.


Lazy .
 
On the coolant elbows use black rtv on the new metal ones for a permanent solution. The old plastic ones will probably break when you try and remove them.
 
My friend has the same car. So far it has undergone practically no maintenance for a lot more miles. The only breakdown has been a coolant elbow.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
I do not like spring hose clamps !


They're actually very manageable with the right tool. They also keep a constant tension on the hose even if the hose shrinks.


Here is the "right tool" for spring type hose clamps in "hard to get to" locations: http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-Reach-Cable-type-Flexible-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-for-Fuel-Water-Oil-Auto-Tools-/281908939989?hash=item41a3150cd5:g:6asAAOSwHaBWl2KX

I agree; the "spring type" hose clamps keep a constant tension on the hose even WHEN the hose shrinks due to constant pressure. And these pliers make removal of the most difficult to get to clamps a 10 second removal breeze and save slipped pliers, knuckles and cursing.

Congratulations on your purchase of a venerable GM 3800! I own 3 of these and I am definitely a fan of this engine! Change your oil and maintain your fluids and these engines are bulletproof! These engines have an all steel timing chain and gear set up and excellent oil pressure; I've run three of them well over 200K prior to other bad things happening which removed them from the road. I have many parts from ZZPerformance on mine. https://zzperformance.com/3800/engine/thermostats.html

Here is what I use to bleed GM brakes; with all 4 wheels removed and the car jacked up on level ground, pressurize the master cylinder and start bleeding with the back passenger (furthest from the master cyllinder). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motive-Products-Late-Model-GM-Power-Bleeder-w-Adapter-PN-0108/271321494090?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I bleed the brakes, rotate the tires and check for brake pad wear (and grease suspension) all at the same time. It is against my religion to pay someone more money per hour to do simple tasks I can do myself. Additionally, I sleep better at night knowing it was done right.

Edit: yeah, the plastic coolant elbows suck. Use the metal ones and replace the Chinese red O-rings with US made black ones.
 
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Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
I do not like spring hose clamps ! Replace the ones on the lower hose with screw / worm gear type clamps .

You just downgraded your clamps to non-compensating clamps that do not expand and contract with the varying temperatures of the system. If your have a plastic radiator barbs, you stand a good chance of cracking them when things get hot. The industry did not switch from worm to spring clamps because of cost or ease of production. They switched because they have fewer in-warranty failures with spring clamps.

If you don't like OEM, try Belleville/Constant-Tension/Constant-Torque type clamps. Some have a limited range of size so you have to order exactly the right ones, but will expand and contract with your system like the OEM clamps. Example brands include Breeze, Trident and Dixon and Gates. Just search your favorite vendor for " constant hose clamp".
 
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
On the coolant elbows use black rtv on the new metal ones for a permanent solution. The old plastic ones will probably break when you try and remove them.



With 37,000 + miles , I guess the elbows have not been exposed to enough heat / cool cycles . They were in pretty good shape .

Rightly or wrongly , I jusr lubed the o-rings with coolant to make things go together better / easier .

Have not filled the coolant system , yet .

Right now I am working on reinstalling the battwery and tray .

Thanks , :)
 
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