R30

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Digging around for information on Castrol non detergent 20W-20 led me to stumble upon Castrol R30. What little I've learned about it tells me it isn't petroleum, rather castor/ester based, contains no detergents, and is extremely effective in the anti wear category as it's drawn to heat. It's a one time use oil for racing engines, and is recommended for four stroke motorcycle and racecar engines, and can also be blended 100:1 as a two stroke racing oil.

I also understand it to be non compatible with petroleum mineral or synthetic oils. So you could not jump from one of these to R30, then back to regular oil. I'm also unsure if it is available in the North Americas.

So.....FOR THE SAKE OF DISCUSSION....Could it be used for a 500 mile OCI in a regular car engine?
 
When my friend was into speedway...local club was using it for speedway motocycles...

One race and OCI after that...
 
A company called Morris also blends a castor/ester oil called MLR 30, which supposedly can last longer and keeps deposits low. From what I've read, castor oil is much better at lubrication and antiwear than petroleum oil, but doesn't last as long.
 
Why not get some Castrol Edge Extended Performance Gold bottle and use that. Can't get much better than that.

Or if you have O'reillys around get some Havoline Synthetic for $10/jug. Kind of boutique oils in that they aren't part of the big 3, Valvoline, Pennzoil or Mobil.

When I contacted Castrol about their oils they actually answered back and sent me two $10 coupons for their Edge products. I like companies that answer back like that.

Just found some PennGrade oil on a detailing site a few minutes ago:

http://www.autogeek.net/penngrade-1oil.html

I remember you talking about that in the past.
 
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I sell Penngrade 1 oil....

I'm just interested in this topic because I honestly knew nothing about it. It seems that castor/ester oil is the ultimate non detergent racing oil. I'm just curious if one could indeed run a short interval of it in a regular car. From what I've read, one would have to completely flush the castor out to put petroleum back in.
 
You probably could run it in a car...since it is recommend for vintage cars also...

But why would you like to complicate your life?
smile.gif
 
R30 is the bi-lingual of the castors. A747 is the 2 cycle shiznit.
You could run R30 for a short OCI, but no point unless you have something that requires it.
Lousy storage properties as well. Just too much work.
 
Originally Posted By: Red91


I'm just interested in this topic because I honestly knew nothing about it. It seems that castor/ester oil is the ultimate non detergent racing oil.


Sounds like ultimate gunoil to me :p Its heat resistent...it clings to hotspots (friction areas) it has superb cleaning capabilities...

P.S.: waiting for Astro14 to rant over my gunoil choices... 3 2 1
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Originally Posted By: Red91


I'm just interested in this topic because I honestly knew nothing about it. It seems that castor/ester oil is the ultimate non detergent racing oil.


Sounds like ultimate gunoil to me :p Its heat resistent...it clings to hotspots (friction areas) it has superb cleaning capabilities...

P.S.: waiting for Astro14 to rant over my gunoil choices... 3 2 1
grin.gif



I'd think it might go gummy in long term storage in thin films like you'd put on a gun. Castor oil has poor oxidative stability relative to mineral oil, and the hot-spot anti-scuffing properties aren't relevant, except possibly for a belt-fed machine gun. Perhaps it'd be appropriate for a classic Maxim or Vickers.

But I see its apparently "stout", which might trump all that. (I don't know from "stout".)
 
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Originally Posted By: Red91


So.....FOR THE SAKE OF DISCUSSION....Could it be used for a 500 mile OCI in a regular car engine?


Could - yes

Should - NO.

Its a racing oil, mostly for 2 stroke total loss oiling systems in motorcycles. Its mostly too much trouble in those unless you're rebuilding them regularly anyway. This gives some clue as to how much trouble it could be in a car engine, unless its REALLY important to you to avoid seizure at the screaming edge.

Step back a little from that edge and you don't need or want it.
 
Speedway bikes have a total loss lube system, and run on alcohol, which will mix with the castor oil...all good. It's when you run it in a petrol engine that it gives more problems. In 2 strokes it makes a very hard shiny carbon, and is hard to remove. I've seen it run in dry sump street bikes plenty of times, but never done it myself.

It is also a very good gear oil, and was once the only oil recommended for worm drive differentials, mineral oil just couldn't take the pressures. I still have a little left...used for lubing rubber things like brake cyl cups.
 
Do any of you know the zinc levels of the R30 or the MLR30? It seems it is very much application specific. Essentially it does its job very well for a very short amount of time, and doesn't age well. Am I getting that correct?
 
Originally Posted By: Red91
Do any of you know the zinc levels of the R30 or the MLR30? It seems it is very much application specific. Essentially it does its job very well for a very short amount of time, and doesn't age well. Am I getting that correct?


There is no zinc in R30, it has all ashless antiwear.
 
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Originally Posted By: Silk
Speedway bikes have a total loss lube system, and run on alcohol, which will mix with the castor oil...all good


Yes, that is the smell of Speedway.
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Silk
Speedway bikes have a total loss lube system, and run on alcohol, which will mix with the castor oil...all good


Yes, that is the smell of Speedway.


That is the smell of my lawn equipment...doesn't take much, and I can find it at the chemist.
 
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