What Oil for '17 V6 Mustang and Other (Rookie) Q's

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Hello Oil Connoisseurs! (and Happy Independence Day)

I recently bought a new ’17 V6 automatic Mustang and upon doing my due diligence on fluids, stumbled across this site.

I was trying to determine what oil/oil filter configuration would be the most optimal for my situation.

This car will be my daily driver, in Chicago, (yes even in the snow), on the expressway, and through a whole lot of traffic.

For my first oil change, I was thinking about doing Mobil 1 EP 5W-20 at 1,500 miles with a Royal Purple 20-500 filter. Wanted to go with a nice filter on my first change and then switch to the OEM Motorcraft FL500S for warranty purposes. Some threads on here have noted that the FL500S is really a Purolator One.

On my previous vehicle, I would use the corresponding M1-XXX filter, however I came across a thread on here with the new M1-XXXA filter cut open and the pleat spacing was horrendous to say the least.

I’m a car novice, and learning each and everyday, so these questions might seem a little rudimentary, but would appreciate any insight.

1. Is Mobil 1 EP a ‘full’ synthetic? I’m reading that the regular Mobil 1 synthetic is not
2. Does my car have ‘break-in’ oil right now? Should I wait to change the oil until the OLM tells me to?
3. If I buy all of my oil supplies from Amazon, how do you guys keep your records? I’ve heard that some people staple the Amazon invoice to the oil filter box, and either keep the empty five quart oil jugs or cut out the UPC. Would this suffice if I ever needed to make a warranty claim?
4. Given that my car is a daily driver stored outside, would you recommend switching to Mobil 1 0W-20 EP during the winter?

Ultimately, what do you think would be a good oil/oil filter combo?

Thanks in advance,
Greg
 
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I use Pennzoil Platinum in the V6 (4.0) Mustang and a Motorcraft FL820S filter. I also use Pennzoil Platinum in the Z and Accord. I highly recommend it.
 
I've been using QSUD 5W-20 & Mobil 1 M1-212 oil filters (no "A" suffix) in my wife's 2011 3.7L Mustang with 6R80. I ran plain M1 5W-20 one run and it was noisier at startup IME.

I have a few M1-212 filters left in my stash along with some Wix made and one Fram made Carquest Blue 84502 filters I got from Rockauto.

You'll want some good tires in winter. I put Goodyear Tripletreds on her car after the crummy factory tires that slid all over in Ohio winters were worn down.
 
My first thought was, silly noob questions relating to a 2017 new car purchase.
I read your post, it's well-composed so i'll share my thoughts as a long-time enthusiast and one who sees a lot of the mis-truths and myths out there (online and in person).

1) congrats on the 2017 mustang. The V6 is the best motor for everyday use, and unfortunately it will be discontinued for MY2018 mustangs, no longer offered.
2) basically, go with the factory recommended grade, is generally the best advice on a new car. With age or extreme use conditions, (extreme cold, track-use) there is some justification to adjusting the grade.
3) Unless price is a major consideration, I always recommend synthetic oils. the price differential when synth-oil is purchased on sale is modest.
4) There is "break-in" oil in your car currently. You could probably safely do a change (oil&filter) at anywhere from 1,500-2,500 miles to take out any break-in debris. Someone worried about cost might change just the filter, but I would do both.
5) You don't state at what interval you plan to do your change, or simply to follow the OLM. an ongoing 3K or 5K mile oil change interval is excessive, if using synthetic.
6) if your Mustang has an OLM, I would change it at 1,500-2,500, then either have the life monitor reset, or note the "life remaining" when you do this initial change. I would then run synthetic, your preferred grade, until the monitor says "0%", and send it for testing, noting the actual mileage driven on the oil used after this first change. The remaining oil life will give you some sense of what mileage you can safely expect, and how closely your use correlates with the onboard OLM
7) Using 0W20 for 4-6months during the winter oil-change interval is probably a good, or at least reasonable/educated decision. A mild deviation from factory spec that is based on common-sense and some science.
8) I think keeping all your UPCs and receipts from a filter box is a bit much. I would simply take a photo of the receipt (which is probably electronic if you buy it online), oil, box, your car on stands, and email it to yourself with "oil change Mustang fall 2017" and diarize the oil change with date in an email with some digital images. If there's ever an issue, each email is date-stamped and won't/can't be lost in a folder that goes missing.

9) Personally, it is my belief that oil grade, brand is much-overhyped. Some private -label brands are actually the same as high-priced name-brands, refined in the same factory. The biggest killer of a motor is "low oil level". The number one cause of "low oil level" is leaking gaskets and seals, as the motor ages.

10) if you reply again, state how many miles you typically drive in a month, and the distance of your work commute one-way.


Your car is shiny and new. Don't overthink the oil. Unless you are planning to drive it 200K-plus miles, basic servicing and never letting the oil run low, are your best defenses.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I'd use Motorcraft in the recommended grade. That way if something goes wrong, they can't say nothing.

That for sure. Up here, I'd go to a different brand, probably, with the approval, though. Up here, we don't get Motorcraft at Walmart.
 
First off, WELCOME TO THE ASYLUM! Find yourself a chair and make yourself comfortable. The above recommendations are all fine so pick one and be happy. You've obviously been studying as your questions are quite intelligent. My take on your questions:
1). Don't know if it's a full syn oil, but it is quite good. UOAs seem to show that.
2). It's probably Motorcraft semi-syn in the 5w-20 flavor. Myself, the first oil change occurs at around 3k miles.
3). I staple the oil and filter receipts to the oil filter box top, with the date and mileage written on both. I also keep a spread sheet to refer back to.
4). Mobil 1 0w-20EP would be fine year round! It's a great oil that'll easily go everything the OLM throws at it.

And finally, whatever MC filter Ford recommends will be fine, along with the correct starburst / doughnut ( for gas engine ) oil in the proper weight will cover your needs. Here lately, based on the really good UOAs listed on this site, I'm running Castrol Magnatec in my wife's Expedition EB.
Cheers and thanks for joining the party!
 
Originally Posted By: Maddog1337
1. Is Mobil 1 EP a ‘full’ synthetic? I’m reading that the regular Mobil 1 synthetic is not


All oil labeled synthetic are full synthetics,but there are "different synthetics" per se. Walmart Supertech synthetic is a full synthetic.
 
5w-20 would be fine year round.

A Fram ultra filter is a fine value

Initial change does not seem to matter with regard to engine longevity.

Run it hard once you have it warmed up, seat the rings.

MC is a fine oil and usually a good price.

Change when OLM gets to 15%

I ran the FL500S on my fusion while it was in warranty. It did the job.

Don't get sucked in by marketing. If it meets the specs given in your OM then it's fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Maddog1337
1. Is Mobil 1 EP a ‘full’ synthetic? I’m reading that the regular Mobil 1 synthetic is not

Just as an aside, if you're looking to find an 5w-20 or 5w-30, as the case may be, with Ford's certification on it, made primarily of Group IV or V base stocks, you'll have a rather long search ahead of you.
wink.gif
There's a reason that very expensive base stocks aren't used to meet very rudimentary specifications.
 
Ford motorcraft filters should be cheaper on ebay and Amazon. I'd search there. Mobil 1 EP is a [censored] good oil. M1EP with a Ford filter if I'd had a brand new v6 Mustang. Congrats on your new ride.
 
Hi, and welcome !!
i have a 2012 with the 3.7 , when i bought the car wasn't sure if i would like the 3.7 as i was coming from a 4.6 Gt , i have been very happy with it so far.
last oil change i used up the last of my pennzoil ultra 5w20 and motorcraft fl500 filter , next change thinking of trying valvoline 0w20 and the fl500 filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Maddog1337
Ultimately, what do you think would be a good oil/oil filter combo?

Best oil filter: Fram Ultra based on 4548-12 performance and anatomy/materials. Royal Purple almost as good too.
Best oil: Either Mobil1 EP 0w20, or Castrol Edge Extended Performance (gold jug) 0w20. .... walmart or amazon.... Those "EP" oils are for real. Why not use the best when it only costs a bit more?
 
I wouldn't worry about oil until the engine is broken in. Run whatever "conventional" until you hit 10-15K then you may want to step up to a premium "real" synthetic ( majority group IV/V blend) to keep the rings unstuck.
Ive broken in over 60 engines - its MAINLY all luck buddy. That said, I would not wail on it or run a constant rpm for long times ( New + long interstate runs = BAD). Keep max revs under 3500rpm for 700 or so miles and then creep up to 4000 rpm at 1000mile then 4500 at 1500 miles. You can give it WOT, but I wouldn't in first gear for a while.
 
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You really can't go wrong with Motorcraft semi-syn oil and Motorcaft filters and follow the OLM. Don't change the factory fill out early.
 
I don't think exotic filters are really necessary.

I have two trucks nearing 300,000 miles each, and neither one has ever seen a Mobil-1 or Pure One or any expensive oil filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
You really can't go wrong with Motorcraft semi-syn oil and Motorcaft filters and follow the OLM. Don't change the factory fill out early.


Correct.

Besides, your car will rust away long before the engine wears out.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
You really can't go wrong with Motorcraft semi-syn oil and Motorcaft filters and follow the OLM. Don't change the factory fill out early.


Correct.

Besides, your car will rust away long before the engine wears out.


Wow! A lot of replies here, welcome to the asylum indeed!

Price is really no object in terms of the oil changes. M1 5W-20 EP is $25 for a five quarter at Walmart. Same rationale with the filter. Rust is a certainly a concern, especially for brutal Chicago winters. It's funny how we do things like pre-filling the oil filter to maybe save one iota of car life, just to have someone rear end you while on their phone. However, with that in mind, I do plan to get the car undercoated with the black tar stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: Patrick236
My first thought was, silly noob questions relating to a 2017 new car purchase.
I read your post, it's well-composed so i'll share my thoughts as a long-time enthusiast and one who sees a lot of the mis-truths and myths out there (online and in person).

1) congrats on the 2017 mustang. The V6 is the best motor for everyday use, and unfortunately it will be discontinued for MY2018 mustangs, no longer offered.
2) basically, go with the factory recommended grade, is generally the best advice on a new car. With age or extreme use conditions, (extreme cold, track-use) there is some justification to adjusting the grade.
3) Unless price is a major consideration, I always recommend synthetic oils. the price differential when synth-oil is purchased on sale is modest.
4) There is "break-in" oil in your car currently. You could probably safely do a change (oil&filter) at anywhere from 1,500-2,500 miles to take out any break-in debris. Someone worried about cost might change just the filter, but I would do both.
5) You don't state at what interval you plan to do your change, or simply to follow the OLM. an ongoing 3K or 5K mile oil change interval is excessive, if using synthetic.
6) if your Mustang has an OLM, I would change it at 1,500-2,500, then either have the life monitor reset, or note the "life remaining" when you do this initial change. I would then run synthetic, your preferred grade, until the monitor says "0%", and send it for testing, noting the actual mileage driven on the oil used after this first change. The remaining oil life will give you some sense of what mileage you can safely expect, and how closely your use correlates with the onboard OLM
7) Using 0W20 for 4-6months during the winter oil-change interval is probably a good, or at least reasonable/educated decision. A mild deviation from factory spec that is based on common-sense and some science.
8) I think keeping all your UPCs and receipts from a filter box is a bit much. I would simply take a photo of the receipt (which is probably electronic if you buy it online), oil, box, your car on stands, and email it to yourself with "oil change Mustang fall 2017" and diarize the oil change with date in an email with some digital images. If there's ever an issue, each email is date-stamped and won't/can't be lost in a folder that goes missing.

9) Personally, it is my belief that oil grade, brand is much-overhyped. Some private -label brands are actually the same as high-priced name-brands, refined in the same factory. The biggest killer of a motor is "low oil level". The number one cause of "low oil level" is leaking gaskets and seals, as the motor ages.

10) if you reply again, state how many miles you typically drive in a month, and the distance of your work commute one-way.


Your car is shiny and new. Don't overthink the oil. Unless you are planning to drive it 200K-plus miles, basic servicing and never letting the oil run low, are your best defenses.


Thanks for the comprehensive reply!!

A Mustang was on the radar and once I saw the V6 was being discontinued, I had to jump on it! IMO, the V6 should be the second step up in place of the EcoBoost. I am not sold on the EcoBoost and the reliability of a turbo. However it was clear when purchasing that Ford really wanted to kill the V6 -- absolutely no car upgrade packages. Also went with the V6 because it is tried and true, I plan to keep this car for a while.

Right now my odometer reads about 1,500mi. I think I will do around 5,000 to 7,500 intervals. I know EP is rated for 15,000 but really would not feel comfortable going past half way.

It seems like the biggest disparity between responses on this thread is when to change out the 'break-in' oil. Wouldn't you want to remove any metal shavings or impurities in your engine ASAP? I know engine manufacturing has come a long way, but if it's just a matter of actually spending the money to get it done, why wouldn't you do it?
 
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