Raybestos rotors?

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Does anybody know much about raybestos brake rotors? Working on our Explorer and I can source either 680982 (advanced technology) or 680982P (police/fleet). The catch is, its significantly cheaper ordering one of each than a pair of either. Think they would be good running one of each on the same axle? Think either one would offer a significant advantage over the other? Both are listed as made in "CN" which I'm assuming means China.
 
I just installed a pair of advanced technology rotors on my Lexus after having [censored] luck with two sets of Dura rotors in a row, they would develop a terrible pulse after about 8,000-10,000 miles occurred about the same mileage on both sets. So off they came and on went a set of Raybestos AT rotors with Raybestos EHT pads. So far so good but they've only been on for just shy of 2,600 miles.

I wouldn't have any worries buying a set of each, so far I'm really liking the GG friction code Raybestos EHT pads, more bite and less dust than the previous pads and LESS dust than the much loved Akebono Pro-ACT pads that are installed on the rear axle of the same car.
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
I just installed a pair of advanced technology rotors on my Lexus after having [censored] luck with two sets of Dura rotors in a row, they would develop a terrible pulse after about 8,000-10,000 miles


That would be a pad issue, rotors have little to do with brake pulsation.


http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths


I've personally purchase the cheapest rotors I can get from a reputable brand(usually centric cteks) and then buy a decent pad never had an issue even when used on the track.

Don't forget to check Amazon warehouse deals.

And to answer your question OP buy which ever is chepeast.
 
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Pedal pulsation comes from thickness variation, which in turn is caused by excessive lateral runout. Almost all rotors come from China nowadays. I would not mix the different types however. Generally, police/fleet/HD rotors have less thickness variation and reduce pulsation so they last longer. I would go with pairs of whatever you decide. I have found if the police/fleet/HD rotors are not much more expensive it is worth it. More important for actual stopping performanc is a high quality pad though. I'd go with a pair of the 680982P rotors.
 
Originally Posted By: thescreensavers
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
I just installed a pair of advanced technology rotors on my Lexus after having [censored] luck with two sets of Dura rotors in a row, they would develop a terrible pulse after about 8,000-10,000 miles


That would be a pad issue, rotors have little to do with brake pulsation.


http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths


I've personally purchase the cheapest rotors I can get from a reputable brand(usually centric cteks) and then buy a decent pad never had an issue even when used on the track.

Don't forget to check Amazon warehouse deals.

And to answer your question OP buy which ever is chepeast.


It was not a pad issue, the rotors had 0.001-0.002 runout when installed and 0.003-0.008 runout when removed, re bedding the pads didn't fix the issue. The original rotors went 145,000 miles without any issues, the same exact pads were used from the last set on the original rotors to the replacement dura rotors (a new set to clarify, Akebono ACT, I only switched to Raybestos to match the new rotors since the Akebono pads already had 20,000 miles on them). Not all brake pulsating issues are pads, chuck a used rotor up in a lathe and see for yourself, I've personally cut several hundred.
 
Just whatever you do don't buy the cheapest rotors on Rockauto! I did that and now I have brake pulsations and noise when braking. Won't make that mistake again. I would trust the Raybestos.
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
So off they came and on went a set of Raybestos AT rotors with Raybestos EHT pads. So far so good but they've only been on for just shy of 2,600 miles.

OT, but I got the same deal, and am happy with them so far. To the OP, I wouldn't want to mix rotors on the same axle if I could at all avoid it. Of course, I'm sure that happens often enough in fleet environments, particularly if one rotor is shot and the other is "serviceable enough."
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Originally Posted By: thescreensavers
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
I just installed a pair of advanced technology rotors on my Lexus after having [censored] luck with two sets of Dura rotors in a row, they would develop a terrible pulse after about 8,000-10,000 miles


That would be a pad issue, rotors have little to do with brake pulsation.


http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths


I've personally purchase the cheapest rotors I can get from a reputable brand(usually centric cteks) and then buy a decent pad never had an issue even when used on the track.

Don't forget to check Amazon warehouse deals.

And to answer your question OP buy which ever is chepeast.


It was not a pad issue, the rotors had 0.001-0.002 runout when installed and 0.003-0.008 runout when removed, re bedding the pads didn't fix the issue. The original rotors went 145,000 miles without any issues, the same exact pads were used from the last set on the original rotors to the replacement dura rotors (a new set to clarify, Akebono ACT, I only switched to Raybestos to match the new rotors since the Akebono pads already had 20,000 miles on them). Not all brake pulsating issues are pads, chuck a used rotor up in a lathe and see for yourself, I've personally cut several hundred.


I see this article quoted on the board like it was gospel, it was written by one person and that is his opinion. I totally disagree with his conclusions, IMO the chances are he probably never operated a brake lathe in his life and is talking about racing brakes that use a lot of pad material in a very short time and do deposit pad material heavily on the rotors. Most posters have never seen a brake lathe never mind operated one so they don't know and understandably just quote the article.

Over the last 40+ years I too have cut literally hundreds maybe even thousands of drums and rotors, there was a time not too long ago that every car that got a brake job had its drums/rotors cut and calipers and cylinders rebuilt.
When cutting the rotors it wasn't old pad material being cut that I can tell you, it was metal. rotors do warp that's a 100% fact. As in your case they were mounted properly on a clean surface and had low install runout numbers.
I use to hate the singing when someone forgot to belt the rotor or drum in the lathe, it would drive drive people crazy.
 
Get rotors that are coated
smile.gif
 
Buck91,

I put a set of Raybestos Professional Rotors on my Dakota about 3 years ago, and they are doing well, no problems. Of course I checked for parallelism and on-vehicle runout as part of the install. The reason I tried them is they come with a guarantee on flatness and runout (which would be off-vehicle runout). I haven't tried their higher end line.
Originally Posted By: ejes
Pedal pulsation comes from thickness variation, which in turn is caused by excessive lateral runout. Almost all rotors come from China nowadays. I would not mix the different types however. Generally, police/fleet/HD rotors have less thickness variation and reduce pulsation so they last longer.

Thickness variation is but one cause of pedal vibration. It can be avoided by 1.) buying rotors with a flatness guarantee (like the Raybestos has) and 2.) Confirming with instruments. All you need is a common micrometer, measure the rotor thickness at 8 more-or-less equidistant points around friction surface. The resulting measurements should vary not at all, factory specs say less than .0015", I've found even the cheaper Chinese rotors beat that. But I always check anyway. (This is a different check than run-out, which is done on vehicle with a dial indicator.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I see this article quoted on the board like it was gospel, it was written by one person and that is his opinion. I totally disagree with his conclusions, IMO the chances are he probably never operated a brake lathe in his life and is talking about racing brakes that use a lot of pad material in a very short time and do deposit pad material heavily on the rotors. Most posters have never seen a brake lathe never mind operated one so they don't know and understandably just quote the article.

Sorry, while the author is no longer able to defend himself, he was THE EXPERT on braking.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Over the last 40+ years I too have cut literally hundreds maybe even thousands of drums and rotors, there was a time not too long ago that every car that got a brake job had its drums/rotors cut and calipers and cylinders rebuilt.
When cutting the rotors it wasn't old pad material being cut that I can tell you, it was metal. rotors do warp that's a 100% fact. As in your case they were mounted properly on a clean surface and had low install runout numbers.
I use to hate the singing when someone forgot to belt the rotor or drum in the lathe, it would drive drive people crazy.

I too have rotors that warped, one set after an extreme over-tightening by Goodyear Tire & Auto center. (I had to replace a bunch of studs it was so bad). So yes it happens, but I hardly mention it any more because I got shouted down by people quoting the article.

I've learned a lot from Trav and respect his opinions, but you're dead wrong about pad buildup. How else do you explain a rotor with in-spec runout and parallelism/flatness, and severe brake shudder problems?

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0043164815004792
 
You misunderstand me, I know there can be pad buildup and of course it can cause pulsation but that article it seems totally dismisses rotor warping for reasons other than improper installation.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
You misunderstand me, I know there can be pad buildup and of course it can cause pulsation but that article it seems totally dismisses rotor warping for reasons other than improper installation.


Sorry, I did misunderstand you. I think we're on the same page...
 
I've yet to have a raybestos AT rotor warp, and we have 6 in service here, one set with 30,000 miles on them with occasional tow duty.

However, I have received raybestos rotors with flaws right out of the box - one with a visible crack in it beneath the nice rust-abate coating, and one which pulsed badly right out of the driveway (I remounted it again to make sure it wasn't installation error). In both cases the amazon vendor exchanged them and the replacements were good.

Of the 6 rotors, there is a third which I think has a bit of runout but doesn't affect braking feel (it rubbed the heat shield and you'd hear it as the "low side" would contact the shield, and the "high side" would deflect away). As a result, I used the autozone premium stuff for the last brake work. Raybestos prices best online, but the exchange hassle isn't working for me - going local takes some stress out of the equation. I'm very pleased with those autozone premium units.

-m
 
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I have Raybestos Advanced Technology Rotors on all 4 wheels of my CTS. I also installed Advanced Technology pads on all 4 wheels at that time as well.

They have been on there for about 65-70k miles and perform flawlessly. I just replaced my pads last week and the rotors still look good with minimum corrosion. I put on new Advanced Technology pads again too. I am very happy with Rayestos products as long as they are their PG or better lines.
 
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