Storm door shimming

[JHZR2]

We have a custom size (large, wide and tall) storm door on the front of our home. Its an Anderson/Emco made one.

It has hinges of this type:



Which essentially are metal with the whole door mass riding on little polymer washers and pins. Its clear the mass isnt evenly distributed between pins, so some have worn. The wear is less than 1mm, but it's enough that it, plus some gravity sag has caused the door to not latch. Since the door is very long (>36"),being a little off on the hinge side multiplies on the latch side.

The door has worked flawlessly for the first 5 or so years. So now I need to fix. I tried shimming the hinges (bottom half) with nylon washers:



It hasn't sufficiently helped.

The hinges are"permanently" part of the hinge bar that screws to the door molding on the home. The storm door screws to the hinges that is attached permantly to the bar.

So it seems I have a few options:

1: shim the hinge by putting a thin strip of metal flashing or similar metal in there.

2: shin the hinge bar with metal or wood to change the angle of the door.

3: both

Any thoughts on which is the better option?

Some of the hinge standoffs are worn so thin, it will be metal to metal if I don't get another washer in there. So I'll be adding the nylon washers in regardless where necessary.

Thanks!

Edit: sorry the embedded photo sw seems to flip photos from their intended orientation.

 

[sleddriver]

1. What's the H & W of the door?
2. How much does it weigh?
3. What's the latch side look like?
4. How far off is the latch?
5. A few non-zoomed photos would help.

 

[spasm3]

Mine has done that as well. It actually rubs at the top corner on the latch side. Mine still latches ok. It might be easier to adjust the entire latch lower, or file the bottom of the latch for clearance. I do like the washer idea, Did you cut a small notch out to pop them in?

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: sleddriver
1. What's the H & W of the door?
2. How much does it weigh?
3. What's the latch side look like?
4. How far off is the latch?
5. A few non-zoomed photos would help.


1. I want to say 38x84" but don't quote me
2. Not sure. We bought it turnkey custom design from Andersen. It has worked perfect until recently. We keep the storm pane in all the time due to small children. That mass surely doesn't help.
3. It doesn't have a striker like an entry door, but the principle and plate around the latch and deadbolt look similar.
4. Id guess 1mm would do it, but 2mm would be better.
5. I will when able.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Mine has done that as well. It actually rubs at the top corner on the latch side. Mine still latches ok. It might be easier to adjust the entire latch lower, or file the bottom of the latch for clearance. I do like the washer idea, Did you cut a small notch out to pop them in?


Mine rubs there which is how I know it's a sag issue. Our hw is oil rubbed bronze and I'm not keen on grinding it. Plus the hinge standoffs are so worn it needs repair regardless. It gets a lot of use.

The washers are just regular nylon washers from ace. A little trial and error was necessary. I just cut a slit and then worked it in while a helper held up the latch end. Ill add dry lube next.

 

[spasm3]

It's a sag issue, but not with the frame. The bottom hinge probably wears on the inside radius on the side of the door. The top wears on the inside radius near the frame side. ( The rod running down the middle probably has flat spots too).

I have considered swapping the top and bottom hinges and lubing them well when i do. but that involves removing the door and hinge side of the frame to take it apart. Its more work than i have time for right now.

 

[HangFire]

Andersen's typically have a 10 year or lifetime warranty. Give them a call and see what they have to say. If you just need parts, typically they're free.

 

[CT8]

I have the same hinge setup on an Anderson Emco doos and it sags as well. I decided it was easier to buy a new house.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
It's a sag issue, but not with the frame. The bottom hinge probably wears on the inside radius on the side of the door. The top wears on the inside radius near the frame side. ( The rod running down the middle probably has flat spots too).

I have considered swapping the top and bottom hinges and lubing them well when i do. but that involves removing the door and hinge side of the frame to take it apart. Its more work than i have time for right now.


Do you know if there is a rod that goes the whole length, that all hinges pivot about?

Can you actually swap hinges as you say?

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: spasm3
It's a sag issue, but not with the frame. The bottom hinge probably wears on the inside radius on the side of the door. The top wears on the inside radius near the frame side. ( The rod running down the middle probably has flat spots too).

I have considered swapping the top and bottom hinges and lubing them well when i do. but that involves removing the door and hinge side of the frame to take it apart. Its more work than i have time for right now.


Do you know if there is a rod that goes the whole length, that all hinges pivot about?

Can you actually swap hinges as you say?


Mine looks like you can, but i have not tried it yet. I have this project in mind for the fall. I don't remember the make of my door, but i'm thinking its anderson as well. It LOOKS like i can take the hinge side of the frame off and then i can see the top of the hinge. My hinges have screws holding them in. So if i can get what i think is a long hinge rod out, i will switch the bottom and top hinges, I trying to decide what i would lube them with if that works. A water resistant grease?

 

[JHZR2]

I was thinking to spray in dry lube

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: CT8
I have the same hinge setup on an Anderson Emco doos and it sags as well. I decided it was easier to buy a new house.


I like how you think.

 

[Burnsj63]

Hey guys - has anyone figured this out yet? I am currently having the same problem after 3 years installed by Home Depot.
I am also curious if the 10yr Warranty Andersen/Emco advertises would cover this problem - as it relates to the door frame:
"DOOR FRAME: EMCO Enterprises, Inc. (EMCO) warrants the door frame, hinges, and painted finish on EMCO® storm door products to be free from defects in manufacturing, materials, paint adhesion, or workmanship, under normal use, for ten (10) years or as long as the original consumer purchaser owns the home in which the door was initially installed, whichever is shorter."

 

[wpod]

They are low end Home Depot products.

 

[Burnsj63]

Shoot - well, we are planning on moving in Spring 2021. So as long as they fix it NOW and free, I won't mind toooooo much. Still is a bummer. I feel that I wouldn't care AS MUCH if they didn't make a product that makes it difficult to shim or straighten. I can't find any way to shim this style at all. So even if it is not their fault that my house is shifting - I should STILL be able to make adjustments every other few years without calling - with this style, there is no adjustment. The hinges are fixed to the frame. Shimming is not an option
Unless I perform open-heart surgery on my door frame in 32 degree weather (which I'm not)

 

[doitmyself]

Has the door itself sagged? Maybe a turnbuckle is required to pull it back into square?

 

[JHZR2]

They are low end Home Depot products.

Ours was the highest-end that was sold. Who sells a better storm door?


As to the question of resolution, Andersen sent new hardware as part of the lifetime warranty. Once I did the swap, I could take out the old HW, and saw that they are spring loaded plastic pieces.
I lubed well with a ptfe loaded grease, put a piece of sheet aluminum under the hinge bar on the bottom half, and it worked fairly well.

 

[JHZR2]

Has the door itself sagged? Maybe a turnbuckle is required to pull it back into square?

The issue with mine is that it’s an oversized full view door. A turnbuckle would ruin the aesthetics.