Zero Turn Motor Break In

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On a zero turn mower engine from say 23-37hp on average do you think it takes 50 hours to seat the rings like some companies say. I have no issue with that, but I wonder if its so?
50 hours of mowing ain't no piece of cake. it can be a very harsh environment indeed.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
How else would you break in a lawn mower 'cept to mow the lawn ???


Pretty much.

I can't imagine doing anything else, nor did grandad, dad, or I. The machining and ring quality today is pretty good

I'd guess it'd be broken in in half the time or less.

I'd give it an oil and filter change after its first full yard, then at the end of the season, and maintain by hours going forward.

One thing I always do is keep an eye on valve lash at the first 50 hours, in my experience most of the stuff you get today moves a bit right away then sets a while.

The japanese engines typically have 2-3X the lash interval of everyone else but the baby cats.

UD
 
I would guess that the break in is less than that, probably a lot less.
However, if you happen to get an engine that uses oil for a long time, it's their excuse to tell you just to wait it out for at least 50 hours so they can dodge some warranty work.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
How else would you break in a lawn mower 'cept to mow the lawn ???


You asked it not me. Had nothing to do with that. Fifty hours was mentioned for break in before going to a SS or FS oil. Please clarify "break in"
 
Originally Posted By: Kruse
I would guess that the break in is less than that, probably a lot less.
However, if you happen to get an engine that uses oil for a long time, it's their excuse to tell you just to wait it out for at least 50 hours so they can dodge some warranty work.


I think your right!!!!
 
Since B&S twin cyl 20HP suggest the first oil change at 5-10 hours, I'm guessing that the engine is 90% broke-in. At 3400 rpm that is a fair amount of piston travel in 5 hours. Ed
 
I just got a new Bad Boy Zero turn with a Kohler V-twin and the factory fill is a break in oil of a "light viscosity" I was told when I purchased it. It has 5 hours on it and I am going to change to at 10 hours to be safe. The Kohler manual nor Badboy mower mentions anything about an early oil change requirement, however.
 
My new Ferris with the B&S Commercial turf 27hp now has 11 hrs on it. The first time I cut with it for about an hr. it used a slight amount of oil. From then until 10 hrs. it didn't use any. I changed the oil/filter @ 10hrs for my own peace of mind since the manuals say every 100 hrs. It was new out of the crate.
I would say the rings seat in the first couple hrs. of use. Other break in in the first 10. Dealer said not to use syn until 25hrs.
 
In my experience most 4 cycle air cooled ope engines completely break in within the first 5 hours of use. Most of the break in is within the first hour of use. The rings set and the rod bearings conform to the crank surface. There will be plenty of glitter in the oil filter by this point. I'am a firm believer in running that new engine at full throttle and working it like you intend to. Run the mower deck and cut plenty of thick grass during the break in period. The point is to keep the engine running at max power with the deck pulling all the power from the engine that it can. This will set the piston rings. Don't let it idle much during break in. I find that engines broke in this way usually do not have problems with oil consumption or burning oil down the road. Change the oil and filter after 5 to 8 hours and refill with the oil of your choice. I prefer 15/40 diesel oil for dino and Mobil 1 5/30 or 10/40 if I want to run syn. Keep the air filter clean and that is the recipe for a long engine life.
 
The 20HP B&S twin Intek engines in my JD states to "Run the engine at full throttle while mowing to keep the engine from over heating" In addition; JD states that the tractor hood must be in place to assure proper engine cooling. Just for new comer information. Ed
 
I would change at 5 hours, then 25, then every 50
You have no idea what's inside the engine,
casting sand, metal flakes, dirt, etc...

Shell Rotella T5 in 10W-30 is my favorite small engine oil,
tough, but not expensive...
paired with a Fram (or equivalent) 3614 or 3600 (if there is room) filter..

I can get STP blue from AutoZone for $3.99...
 
When inquiring at a scag dealer about the number of hours of use before they recommended going to synthetic... The person at the parts counter said the engines are already broken in by the time the machines are crated up! His reasoning was the engine manufacturer runs them on the line to test them, and the manufacturers using the engines run them to test their equipment. So, he recommended a switch to synthetic at 10 hours and recommended exmark 15w50 synthetic oil.

I used valvoline VR1 20w50 conventional oil for the first oil/filter change at 8 hours and will use the same at 25 hours before I switch to synthetic with a decent level of zddp at 50 hours in my 35hp Kohler engine. I have 16.5 hours on it now and oil consumption tapered off before the 8 hr change and the level on the stick after the oil change has remained at just below full since.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperChevy
When inquiring at a scag dealer about the number of hours of use before they recommended going to synthetic... The person at the parts counter said the engines are already broken in by the time the machines are crated up! His reasoning was the engine manufacturer runs them on the line to test them, and the manufacturers using the engines run them to test their equipment. So, he recommended a switch to synthetic at 10 hours and recommended exmark 15w50 synthetic oil.

I used valvoline VR1 20w50 conventional oil for the first oil/filter change at 8 hours and will use the same at 25 hours before I switch to synthetic with a decent level of zddp at 50 hours in my 35hp Kohler engine. I have 16.5 hours on it now and oil consumption tapered off before the 8 hr change and the level on the stick after the oil change has remained at just below full since.


Thanks guys!!!
Super Chevy. My 33 HP Kohler did not burn one drop in 20 hours. With Spartan they said change at 20 hrs and the OLM said so too. Kohler said no FS oil for 50 hrs but Spartan puts in T6 5w40 at the line. The oil and filter were so clean and the oil a translucent yellow I felt it was a waste to change it. But I did.

Exmark and Hustler want the 5 hr. Change.
Interesting thanks!!!
 
AirgunSavant,

Good to here! I'm at 20 hours now and the oil level has remained the same and is still so clean you can hardly see it on the dipstick... so no more consumption. When I changed the oil and filter at 8hrs the oil was clear as new. I cut the filter open and found no metal debris in the media. At 25 hrs I will change the oil but leave the filter on until 50 hrs then change both.

I did find that although the manual calls for 2 quarts... mine actually took 2 qts and 8 oz to get it just below full cold. Checking it hot right after cutting for an hour the level is dead on the full mark. Have you found the same with your 33 hp Kohler?
 
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