2010-2012 RDX Owners... opinion wanted

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
2,030
Location
Oregon
Looking for a small SUV/crossover in the $17k - $20k price mark. Considering the 2010-2012 RDX, 2012+ Tiguan, and the 2010+ Mini Countryman. The RDX is probably my favorite mechanically. Heard great things about the K23A1 turbo engine. Anything to look for? Known issues? Would be looking to get the SH-AWD model with Tech Package and sub-50k miles. Thanks!
 
interesting choice considering what's in your stable.

Any reason your not considering an X3 or X1?
 
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
interesting choice considering what's in your stable.

Any reason your not considering an X3 or X1?


Considered the X3, however they are much more expense for a low miles one. Median price for 2012-2014 xDrive28i with less than 65k miles is $25k. And I know how BMW maintenance/repairs goes as I care for my cars myself ($$$). Plus, 65k miles on a BMW is in the second-half of its useful life. I'd say 65k Acura/Honda miles is still in the first half of its usable life.
 
hmm, I can't argue with you on those points.
coffee2.gif
 
We see a lot of problems with the turbo RDX, most of it is related to salt damage. Vacuum/coolant lines corroding out, exhaust manifold corroding (it's aluminium) which starts to leak coolant into the turbo and cats, trans cooler lines corroding off at the rad, taking out the transmission due to mixing coolant and trans fluid. There is also an extended warranty for the A/C clutch which fails, but the replacement should fix it for good. Make sure all oil changes were done on time, and with the proper oil. Not using the HTO-06 rated 5W30, and it will develop turbo issues.

Every tech here says the same thing, they are great, up until the 100k mile (160k km) mark.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
We see a lot of problems with the turbo RDX, most of it is related to salt damage. Vacuum/coolant lines corroding out, exhaust manifold corroding (it's aluminium) which starts to leak coolant into the turbo and cats, trans cooler lines corroding off at the rad, taking out the transmission due to mixing coolant and trans fluid. There is also an extended warranty for the A/C clutch which fails, but the replacement should fix it for good. Make sure all oil changes were done on time, and with the proper oil. Not using the HTO-06 rated 5W30, and it will develop turbo issues.

Every tech here says the same thing, they are great, up until the 100k mile (160k km) mark.


By salt do you mean road salt?
 
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46


By salt do you mean road salt?


Yes, road salt. Not sure if you ever see any where you are.


I don't think any of the west coast states use it. But thanks for the tips. HTO-06 oil is certainly a must. Would probably opt for PUP 5W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46


By salt do you mean road salt?


Yes, road salt. Not sure if you ever see any where you are.


I don't think any of the west coast states use it. But thanks for the tips. HTO-06 oil is certainly a must. Would probably opt for PUP 5W-30.


Ah, OK, so please ignore all the alarms I just set off. Seriously!
wink.gif


Can't go wrong with PUP! And you can just follow the OLM for oil changes, the turbo RDX has a very aggressive OLM, doing only short trips, I have seen oil changes due after only 4000 km (2500 miles). Probably the only Honda/Acura that has an aggressive enough calculation to deal with short tripping.

The extended warranty on the A/C clutch goes for 7 years, so no worries about it, if it fails, you get the new improved one for free!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
I don't think any of the west coast states use it. But thanks for the tips. HTO-06 oil is certainly a must. Would probably opt for PUP 5W-30.


Ah, OK, so please ignore all the alarms I just set off. Seriously!
wink.gif


Can't go wrong with PUP! And you can just follow the OLM for oil changes, the turbo RDX has a very aggressive OLM, doing only short trips, I have seen oil changes due after only 4000 km (2500 miles). Probably the only Honda/Acura that has an aggressive enough calculation to deal with short tripping.

The extended warranty on the A/C clutch goes for 7 years, so no worries about it, if it fails, you get the new improved one for free! [/quote]

Wow that is pretty aggressive.

I also forgot about the Ford Edge. The 2011+ Sport facelift model with the 305HP engine and 22" wheels is a [censored] of a ride! And this is coming from a BMW guy. They are $18-22k.
 
That's a pretty high budget for a used RDX IMO, are they really that expensive? Make sure to examine the vectoring diff thoroughly if you decide on it- not the most reliable system around apparently.
 
Originally Posted By: PeterPolyol
That's a pretty high budget for a used RDX IMO, are they really that expensive? Make sure to examine the vectoring diff thoroughly if you decide on it- not the most reliable system around apparently.


I'm seeing them in the $17,500 - $19,500 range for 45-60k miles. That's for the 2010 - 2012 facelift model, SH-AWD, Tech package. Tiguan's are right around the same price. Nicer interior, not as reliable, 40 less horsepower.
 
IMHO I'd opt for the V6 equipped RDX.

Sure, it's a bit more $$ to purchase but unless you can obtain extensive records that all servicing has been done by Honda/Acura with warranty approved fluids, I'd pass.

Obviously there's a reason why Honda did away with the turbo 4 and went back to a more reliable NA setup.

...just my
49.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
IMHO I'd opt for the V6 equipped RDX.

Sure, it's a bit more $$ to purchase but unless you can obtain extensive records that all servicing has been done by Honda/Acura with warranty approved fluids, I'd pass.

Obviously there's a reason why Honda did away with the turbo 4 and went back to a more reliable NA setup.

...just my
49.gif



I hear where you're coming from. For that money I'd probably opt for a 2011-2014 Ford Edge Sport (305hp, 22" factory wheels). Not as keen on the looks of the Acura over the Ford.
 
I hate transverse V6 engines, so I actually like the turbo-4 setup better. It requires HTO-06 oil (M1, Edge, PP, PUP, QSUD, and Havoline 5w30 syn meet the standard, but Synpower does not)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top