Switch from Royal Purple 10-40 to?

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Running RP 10-40 in my fox-body 5.0 but was considering a switch to Valvoline Max Life for the additive package. Engine builder recommended Kendall dino 10w40 but eventually switched to full synthetic after break in. Car is driven then parked for months at a time. No leaks, no consumption. Engine builder has since passed away years ago(rest in peace Bob Pucel).
Was considering different oil because the engine was rebuilt 16+years ago(aftermarket intake, cam, rockers and of course aluminium heads and aftermarket cats) and oil technology has changed. Cost not a consideration since it doesn't get driven that much(so sad).
Thanks for reading and responding.
 
many engine builders seem to recommend dino. (mine did) they need to hang out here....
while you certainly should not need synthetic, I would run M1 10w-30; PP; Castrol Edge. of course, I don't know your bearing clearances.... But I would imagine that 10w-30 would provide very good protection.
I'm running VR1 20w-50 dino in my 408 and will switch to VR1 synthetic next oil change - probably frankenbrew it with half 20w-50 and half 10w-30. (my clearances are around .035) my builder used an initial fill of Gibbs; but recommends VR1. its all he stocks: VR1 and Gibbs.
 
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I would agree that Valvoline is really nothing special. just using it for the first year for "warranty". after that I will likely go M1 or Amsoil.
 
I've always run 30wt oils in my full roller 331 stroker in my old ford truck with success. Same 302 engine platform. I won't bother listing all the specs but it's got a very lopey cam and high compression. Just shy of 400 horse.

Oil pressure gauge never shows me anything scary, even after running her real hard for an hour plus. Lowest I've ever seen is 25psi at idle in gear, after some serious flogging.

I fill the sump with 4qts of T5 10w30 and one quart M1 racing 0w30 to give the aw additive levels a kick in the pants. Doesn't burn any oil at all.
 
If price isn't an issue stick with the Royal Purple. If you want to get away from synthetics go with Brad Penn. Either one of those would be a better choice than the Valvoline for your application.
 
I'd stick with Royal Purple, but move to the HPS line. Much healthier additive package. V8s don't need anything terribly special like a high-pressure turbo 4 cylinder would.
 
Read this: Amsoil Z-rod 10W-30
I know some guys with classic cars/hot rods that like it for their modified engines, and it has special anti-corrosion additives for cars that sit a lot as well.

Or, buy a 5 qt. jug of M1 HM 10W-30 or 10W-40 and throw a can of Liqui Moly MOS2 (German-made quality stuff) in there for extra anti-wear. I get these cans 6 at a time on amazon for less than $6 each, free shipping. Just keep in mind this additive gives your new oil a grayish tint, as it goes in very dark gray out of the can. I have been using this stuff on nearly every oil change for some time. I typically go 1 year or 10,000 miles on this oil/additive combo with a long life filter (15,000 mile-rated), but went 16,000 miles one time and engine still spotless inside. This was with the M1 HM 5W-20 on the wife's daily driver Honda minivan.

For less yearly miles, the Maxlife 10W-30 or 10W-40 would surely do the job just fine, but me personally, I would still add the can of moly.
 
You don't give the year for the 5.0 ...

But I'm guessing it's a roller cam? If not, be careful ... You need 1,000 PPM Zn and Ph.

If roller cam you are good to go on most modern oils
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You could run it fine on Rotella T6, or similar
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Originally Posted By: CT8
Why are you wanting to switch oils?

Just curious if there was something better for this application.
 
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