Hi Temp Threadlocker

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Hello everyone! I was wanting to get some insight on hi temp threadlocker. I replaced my wifes 2011 Prius fuel injectors around 2 weeks ago. In doing so I cross threaded/stripped one of the fuel rail bolts. There are two fuel rail bolts and the other holds tension just fine. We will be going on a total of around 2k miles including mountain driving next weekend. Would it be a good idea to put the red hi temp threadlocker on the fuel rail bolt that holds tension or just leave it be? I do not have time to fix the thread on the fuel rail bolt just yet so I was seeing this as being an easy/temporary solution. What is the general consensus on this? I know the proper answer is fix the threads on the loose bolt and that will happen. The car has been driven around 500 miles since the injector swap and the rail is just fine. The bolt that is fine is the one that is circled green in the attached image. The one that is stripped (threads in the hole are shot also) is the one circled in red.





Here is the threadlocker I have

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Te...ASIN=B0002UEOP0
 
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That is not a high temperature location.

Considering that the likely consequence of having the fuel rail come loose is an under-hood fire and total loss of the car, I would find time to fix it properly or use a different car for the trip.
 
To get off the high-temp thread locker you would need to super-heat the bolt with a torch or somesuch. You should never get that kind of heat anywhere NEAR A FUEL RAIL! That could easily start a fire and hurt someone.
 
Fix the threads properly. This is a critical application and the last thing you need is for the fuel rail to pop off going over a bump or something and spray fuel on hot exhaust.

This is probably unlikely to happen, but it's not worth the chance.

Not to mention, if you use threadlocker, have fun removing that bolt to properly fix it in the future.

Also, don't forget that threadlocker is meant to be used on threads that are intact!

p.s. if it's cross-threaded, you don't need threadlocker, around here we call cross-threading 'redneck loctite'
 
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Alright I'm going to try fixing the threads on the stripped bolt tonight. Good news is it's very easy access. Thanks for the heads up on the loctite! I will leave that alone. I agree with thinking safety first which is why I'm glad I asked this. This is a great forum and I wouldn't be half the diy'er without this.
 
I HOPE THIS THREAD DOESNT GET LOCKED!

Agree - helicoil repair drill and tap to next size.

easy and no need for monkeygum repairs.

Now, what up with the need for new injectors? Watery contaminated fuel?
 
Hey ARCO! Only 1 injector was bad. We were getting a misfire on cylinder 3 (p0303). I changed the coil/plugs with denso and still no luck. Come to find out it was the injector (moved the injector to cylinder 1 and p0301 popped). I found a set of 4 reman denso injectors on ebay with lifetime warranty cheaper than 1 brand new denso injector. The end of the bad injector was yellow-ish. I went to put in the bolt on the right and it wouldn't bite the threads period. Just slid in there like a pin. The bolt threads were trash. I tried putting the good bolt in the trashed hole and same deal. I can feel the threads but there is no bite. I'm going to try a longer bolt (maybe an 1/8 inch longer) first to see if I can get it to grab any lower threads or trying teflon tape around new bolt threads before going with a full repair. It takes around 2+ hours to get the fuel rail off this car to where you can tap the hole and is a huge pain in the you know what. I was going to get to this tonight but the wife won't be home till later so I'm going to try and get on this Saturday morning.
 
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You may be able to do the helicoil process through the hole in the rail. You could tell right away if that is the case by removing the bolt and check if the tap fits clear through.
 
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