Honda HS1132 oil recommandation

[jbutch]

Hello everyone,

Long time lurker first time poster.

I just bought a HS1132 snowblower with a GX340 engine that is 18 years old. I know the owner that bought it new and had it this whole time and he told me he changed the oil every years.

Since he went to Honda every time, it must have been some GN4 5w-30 that he used.

Now, since this is an older machine, would it benefit from a Full Synthetic or High Mileage Blend?

I'm a big fan of Synthetic oils but I'm not sure it's worth it after all these years.

Also, when is the best time to change the oil, before the snow season or after? I've seen both on forums.

Thanks!

 

[KGMtech]

I'm a fan of synthetics for OPE that might need to crank at -40C. The price difference vs regular oils is nothing if you get that engine going quick when you are trying to get the driveway done before going to work.

I change at the end of the season, depending on where you live, that might be May or June? I always use premium gas in the OPE to avoid any issues with ethanol (rubber fuel line rotting from inside to out) and mix in adequate fuel stabilizer with a smidgen of Gumout in the tank.

 

[jbutch]

Originally Posted By: KGMtech
I'm a fan of synthetics for OPE that might need to crank at -40C. The price difference vs regular oils is nothing if you get that engine going quick when you are trying to get the driveway done before going to work.

I change at the end of the season, depending on where you live, that might be May or June? I always use premium gas in the OPE to avoid any issues with ethanol (rubber fuel line rotting from inside to out) and mix in adequate fuel stabilizer with a smidgen of Gumout in the tank.


Sorry for my ignorance, what is OPE?

I usually buy Quaker State Full Synthetic (it regularly is on sale at Canadian Tire) is it a good oil?

I always buy premium gas for my small engines and I put fuel stabiliser in the gas can as soon as I get home. Is seafoam good for that?

Another thing that might be for debate, let the engine run dry before storing or fuel with stabiliser and let run 10 min?

Thanks for the help

 

[EdwardC]

OPE is outdoor power equipment.

To be honest, I don't know what's 'best', but what has worked for me is to run the blower out of gas when stored in the off season. It may not be as much of an issue in a GX340, but I have a small Honda inverter generator, EU2000i, that seems to gum up somewhat quickly, likely due to the smaller passages and jets in the carb. I do the same in my HS621 and Toro 521.

However, in my motorcycles, I put in a little Seafoam and Stabil (marine formula) into a full tank before winter and the bikes have always started on the same fuel in the spring. I use the Seafoam mostly as a mild cleaner and the Stabil for stabilization. I've never used Seafoam purely as a stabilizer, even though the bottle claims it can. I do the same as you, all my gas can get a dose of Seafoam/Stabil as soon as I buy it.

I've read that used oil becomes acidic, so I usually try to change the oil in all my engines as they're being stored so that the crank case is sitting with fresh oil. I just wait until the weather is nice and I have time since I really think that at that point, we're splitting hairs. If the oil is changed every year, it's not getting that acidic.

Quaker State Full Synthetic (I'm assuming it's Quaker State Ultimate Durability (QSUD), at least it is in the US) is quality oil. Throw some 5W30 QSUD in your machine and you'd be all set.

Forgot to mention, I use full synthetics in all my blowers, also for ease of starting. Last time around, I used Mobil 1 0W30, but have also used Shell Rotella 5W40. I'd use any brand synthetic 5W30 just as well.

 

[jbutch]

Awesome tips!

Some people might think I'm crazy by buying a 18 years old blower, but I know it has been taken care of and it starts in 1-2 crank with zero smoke. The GX340 seems pretty bulletproof!

I will most likely treat her with some QSUD, it is not much more expensive and like a few people said, it's easier to start in cold weather.

Thanks guys!

 

[EdwardC]

I love old snow blowers! I went to the big box stores and it just doesn't seem like they build them like they used to. I somewhat recently bought a '98 Honda HS621 and a '90 Toro 521. Both work great! The GX engines are pretty bulletproof from what I've read.

 

[EdwardC]

Heh, just saw that you posted on SBF too!

 

[jeepman3071]

I'd run any conventional 5w30, if you change it every year. Snowblowers don't usually see enough hours to warrant the use of a synthetic, and it might leak out of older seals faster.

I have a few customers with 50 year old Ariens snowblowers with the original engines that have seen the cheapest 5w30 the owner could find and they run awesome.

I personally run Pennzoil 5w30 conventional in my 1984 Toro 724. It doesn't smoke or use a drop. I change it every year which is probably overkill since it comes out fairly clean.

 

[jbutch]

Originally Posted By: EdwardC
Heh, just saw that you posted on SBF too!


Haha yeah thats me, small world!

 

[dwendt44]

Depending on how cold it gets in the dept of winter, you might
keep 0W-30 of some sort in mind, that's usually a synthetic.


My 2¢

 

[jbutch]

Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
I'd run any conventional 5w30, if you change it every year. Snowblowers don't usually see enough hours to warrant the use of a synthetic, and it might leak out of older seals faster.

I have a few customers with 50 year old Ariens snowblowers with the original engines that have seen the cheapest 5w30 the owner could find and they run awesome.

I personally run Pennzoil 5w30 conventional in my 1984 Toro 724. It doesn't smoke or use a drop. I change it every year which is probably overkill since it comes out fairly clean.


Is it possible that it could leak more with a synthetic?

 

[NH73]

Why not consider a high mileage full synthetic, like max life full synthetic?

 

[jeepman3071]

Originally Posted By: jbutch


Is it possible that it could leak more with a synthetic?


I've only seen it a few times on mainly older engines which probably had dried up seals to begin with. It did make kind of a mess leaking out of the front crank seal on an old Ariens. I would just get some good conventional 5w30 and change it every year on an older machine, no need to overthink it and use a synthetic.

Heck, one of my customers has a really old snowblower with a 1960's Tecumseh on it. The thing burns a ton of oil, so he uses 10w40 in it. Still starts first pull sitting outside his garage on cold days.

Keeping the oil full seems to be more important than what kind is used with these machines.

 

[jbutch]

What about something like Quaker State Defy?