Jatco JF613E oil & filter change ?

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Superflan

Superflan

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Hi,

my wife have a Renault Koleos (Samsung QM5) MY2013 AWD, with a M9R powerplant and a JATCO JF613E automatic gearbox.

Renault states that it's a lifetime fill and no replacement is required. On the interwebs I can read many posts where owners said that they made 200-300000km on the factory fill and that the gearbox held up great. Well... I'm okay it can happen, but there are also much posts that states the gearbox went FUBAR at kmages like 100000km. That car now counts almost 130000Km and we plan to keep it up as long as it can go, doing regular maintenance. The engine still got DPF but EGR has been disabled (eco remap), it goes through less regens now.

The thing is... even in the Renault Workshop Manual, there is only a partial drain & fill documented. Per this, you can only change a little more than 3 liters of ATF, on a total of almost 8 liters. What to do in case of gearbox repair ? Renault wont bother with it, no internal OEM Renault parts for gearbox, must buy another. There are some third parties companies that repair auto gearbox and have parts. Here's the facts I found :

Per this site ( https://www.transakpp.ru/232/main/nissan/jf613e.html ), JF613E is mounted on :

MITSUBISHI LANCER L4 1.8L & 2.0L
MITSUBISHI DELICA D:5 L4 2.2L
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER L4 2.4L, V6 3.0L
NISSAN MURANO L4 2.5L
NISSAN PATHFINDER V6 3.5L
NISSAN QASHQAI/QASHQAI+2 L4 2.0L
NISSAN X-TRAIL L4 2.0L
RENAULT ESPACE L4 2.0L
RENAULT KOLEOS L4 2.0L
RENAULT LAGUNA L4 2.0L, V6 3.0L & 3.5L
RENAULT LATITUDE L4 2.0L, V6 3.0L
RENAULT MEGANE L4 2.0L
RENAULT SCENIC L4 2.0L
SAMSUNG SM5 L4 2.0L, V6 2.5L
SAMSUNG SM7 V6 2.5L & 3.5L


Per this site ( http://www.alltranz.co.nz/catalogues/pdf/1797 ) , there's a filter in there, and we can put Lubegard Complete Full Synthetic ATF in there.

Lubegard Complete Full Synthetic TDS: http://www.lubegard.com/pdfs/LG_Complete_ATF_sell_sheet_en_fnl2.pdf
Factory fill ELF Elfmatic J6 TDS: http://catalog.elf.com/gallery/ORIGINALS/visuels/3000/3137


Well now I'm lost. I can't find a mean to change the filter and drain all the fluid. Can anyone help there ? Thanks
 
Even a partial drain, done several times over the life of the vehicle (every 50,000km) - - is better than none at all.

What means are available to verify proper fluid level?

I would be more concerned about getting the proper fill level than residual oil left behind.
 
Oh, and transmission filters are typically very COARSE. I once read a spec that said 100 microns. Older transmissions just used a screen!

I wouldn't worry about taking the effort needed to change the filter. Just service "some" of the oil occasionally.
 
Looks like the tranny case needs to be split to service the filter. I'd do a drain and fill every 50,000KM(30,000MI) - the tricky part is getting the fluid level established - if Nissan provided a dipstick it would be easier once the fluid is at temperature, if not you'll need to unscrew a check plug/bolt and see if fluid trickles out at operating temperature.
 
Partial drain&fill is required to check level, I don't know how it's called but there's a level tube behind the drain plug.

I'd do the partial drain & fill every motor oil change maybe from now. My concern is should I stick with Elfmatic J6, or could I go mixing in another ATF, stated as compatible ?
 
Originally Posted By: Superflan
Partial drain&fill is required to check level, I don't know how it's called but there's a level tube behind the drain plug.

I'd do the partial drain & fill every motor oil change maybe from now. My concern is should I stick with Elfmatic J6, or could I go mixing in another ATF, stated as compatible ?

That's what I call the check plug - there's a standpipe that serves to establish the proper fill level - you remove the plug when the engine is running and the ATF temp is at the appropriate range(usually 100-120*F, check with the factory service manual). It should trickle out when the level is OK - not gush out or slow to a drip. You'll need a factory-level scan tool to access the fluid temp or you can approximate with a Ir thermometer to the pan.

As for fluid, I feel OEM-spec fluid is best - that transmission takes Nissan-Matic J/S here in the US, and many of the "universal" fluids do meet that specification. Go with what you're comfortable with, many here report good results with "universal" fluids in Japanese cars.

This might be of interest - it's in Russian: https://www.drive2.ru/l/5473363/
 
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Based on what I see on the interwebs for this AT, it's a 6spd conventional automatic, with a front mounted pan covering the valve body. You'd have to remove the valve body to get at the filter, if it's even possible. The pics I saw show this unit with a dipstick/refill tube as well. This AT looks similar to the F4A51 I had in my 2008 Hyundai. It had a drain plug on the bottom and a dipstick.
 
Thanks everyone
smile.gif
A few more concerns :

1- As far as level concerned, should I make my floor leveled and :
A- Jack up the car 4 corners, or
B- Put it on 4 ramps

2- I'll let the filter alone

3- I'll do one partial fluid change every oil change (20000km), mainly to make sure the fluid stays leveled, because leakages are already visible mainly near the driveshaft seals...

4- When I look at Q8 oils advisor, selecting some Nissan with basically the same gearbox, recommended fluid is Q8 Auto MV. Selecting some Mitsubishi Outlander with JF613E AT, either Q8 Auto MV or Auto JK is proposed. Those fluids are specced Matic C/D/J for the former, Matic S for the later. I can't really buy Elfmatic or Nissan Matic fluids locally, but Q8 fluids are readily available near me. Should I go with MV and mix (or JK) ?

Q8 Auto MV TDS: http://pds.q8research.com/sheetcommercialpdf.php?id=1535&taal=F
Q8 Auto JK TDS: http://pds.q8research.com/sheetcommercialpdf.php?id=1374&taal=F
 
Maybe with that ecoremap (high torque) and the severe usage that the car get (door-to-door driving all day long 180 days a year), I should stick with JK since KV is 35.7@40°C and 7.2@100°C, while MV (Matic S compliant) is 28.5@40°c and 5.8@100°C ? And MV is twice the price...
 
Can I mix safely the factory fluid with the JK oil, or should I stick with J6... That's my main concern. The latter costs more than twice the price...........
 
I would try it based on your previous posts. If there's anything you don't like about that fluid you can dump it asap and consider it a flush fluid. Then go back to the factory recommended fluid if you have to. But I would guess that wouldn't be the case.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
I would try it based on your previous posts. If there's anything you don't like about that fluid you can dump it asap and consider it a flush fluid. Then go back to the factory recommended fluid if you have to. But I would guess that wouldn't be the case.


The fact is I can't exchange all fluid, even if I remove the valve body cover. If I mix, well, it's mixed for life.
 
Originally Posted By: Superflan
\\

1- As far as level concerned, should I make my floor leveled and :
A- Jack up the car 4 corners, or
B- Put it on 4 ramps

2- I'll let the filter alone

3- I'll do one partial fluid change every oil change (20000km), mainly to make sure the fluid stays leveled, because leakages are already visible mainly near the driveshaft seals...


The way I worked on something is like this to put the front end on ramps, and the rear end on jackstands, level as appropriate.

If the axle seals are leaking, I'd leave them alone unless they are grossly leaking or if the drive axles need to be replaced. It's a little bit of a trick to drive in new seals properly.

The Japanese tend to be tight-lipped about their OEM ATF specs - they all agree a "superior type" ATF meeting JASO M315 specs is OK and even those specs are unknown outside of the industry. Nissan in the US is replacing Nissan Matic-J with Matic-S and both fluids you linked here meet JASO M315 type-1A, I think you'll be fine with either but look out for any differences in shifting or transmission noises.
 
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