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Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport #4433126
06/16/17 09:11 AM
06/16/17 09:11 AM
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,572
West Michigan
buck91 Online content OP
buck91  Online Content OP
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,572
West Michigan
So with about 80k on the OEM units, our '14 Ex Sport is developing a lot of braking vibrations and noise. Haven't pulled them to inspect yet, but I figure its a safe bet that they are due for replacement. Very happy with performance and lifespan of the originals but of course Motorcraft parts always command a premium price.

Shopping some of the online retailers I can pick up the low end Power Stop kit ("Auto Specialty" KOE6375) for under $200 front and rear inclusive. This is an EXTREMELY attractive price since a set of Frontline rotors from Advanced runs over 200 for front and rear. Along the same lines, though, I wonder if this is really a good deal or if you get what you pay for?

Has anybody run this line of brakes from Powerstop in the past? How was performance and longevity? Like I said, I am in no need of upgrade just looking for equal performance to OE with an emphasis on lifespan and low dust/noise. Thing stops on a dime with OE brakes as it is.


2011 F150 4x4 5.0L
1996 Mustang GT 5spd/ragtop
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4433142
06/16/17 09:30 AM
06/16/17 09:30 AM
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,695
Chicago, IL
tomcat27 Online content
tomcat27  Online Content
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,695
Chicago, IL
I put a set of Powerstop rotors on a problem Toyota (the rotors would warp within a year; tried different brands) and never had a problem after that. the car is still running the same rotors 5 years later. of course, I used their drilled rotors.

I also put one of their better kits on a Caravan recently but its too soon to see how they hold up. (we used the drilled rotors on a Caravan... hahaha)

I don't know of a magic formula to avoid uneven runout/uneven pad material distribution.
I have done over hundred brake jobs and generally recommend the best parts that you can find - although not too many people are willing to put EBC rotors or the like on a car.

I have brake pulsing on a Sentra at only 42k miles; will be changing those out soon.


2019 Cherokee, 2015 Rogue, 2014 Sentra, 2001 Camry, 2005 Starcraft, 1998 Dodge B1500
1996 Sebring Jx, 1984 F150, 1970 Cougar, 2013 XT250, 2010 Vstar, 2014 CTX1300
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4433143
06/16/17 09:31 AM
06/16/17 09:31 AM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,525
Marshfield , MA
andyd Online content
andyd  Online Content
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,525
Marshfield , MA
If the pads aren't down to bare metal and chewing up the rotors. Why replace the rotors? Get the OEM pads, because you like them. Wire brush the rotors to clean off any pad material, and simply replace the pads.


'16 Camry LE STP synth 0w20 and STP filter. the Fridge

1994 Ranger ,the Rat, 5w30 dino, STP filter

'16 Camry SE, Valvoline HM 0w20 and OEM filter
Thick oil is better grin2
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4433144
06/16/17 09:31 AM
06/16/17 09:31 AM
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,109
Northern Ontario, Canada
Danno Offline
Danno  Offline
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,109
Northern Ontario, Canada
I have had luck on ebay, with well rated sellers.
No slots, no holes for the rotors, ceramic pads
Given you are in Michigan, coated rotors - at least on the hat section of the rotor - total zinc coating preferred.


2016 Sorento SX V6 AWD
2015 KIA RIO SX
2010 Mazda 3 2.0L
2009 Venza V6 AWD
2013 Sonata 2.4L RIP in write-off crash
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4433146
06/16/17 09:31 AM
06/16/17 09:31 AM
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 801
VA
Thax Offline
Thax  Offline
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 801
VA
If the OE brakes gave such long and great performance, why look elsewhere? Yes OE braking components can command a premium price but you really get what you pay for. The price difference is usually well worth it. OE rotors are generally better built units, better iron ,thicker and with better cooling vane configuration. OE pads always fit perfectly, almost always come with OE abutment clips/shims. As a dealer tech, I do many brake jobs and I can honestly say there is no comparison from OE to aftermarket. Id say spend the extra 50 to 100 bucks, and never regret the brand new braking performance for 60K-80K miles. Just my thoughts.


2000 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0L AWD
2018 KIA Soul EX 2.0L
ASE P2 Parts Specialist
AIA Import Part Specialist
KIA certified Senior Technician, Hybrid certified.
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4433164
06/16/17 09:52 AM
06/16/17 09:52 AM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,297
Raleigh ,NC CSA
rshaw125 Offline
rshaw125  Offline
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,297
Raleigh ,NC CSA
On my Explorer I bought a set of Motorcraft pads off of ebay. Never replaced the rotors. The rears are still factory.


2012 Porsche Carrera S
2016 Ford Edge 2.0
2002 Taurus Vulcan SOLD
2006 Explorer SOLD
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4433167
06/16/17 09:53 AM
06/16/17 09:53 AM
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,721
NC
BigD1 Offline
BigD1  Offline
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,721
NC
Raybestos EHT brake pads is what I would buy. GG rated and come with stainless hardware. Shims seem to be high quality too from the description I read on their website. Never used this specific pad, but I have had very good performance with Raybestos Professional Grade pads over the years, and the EHT is a step up from the Professional Grade.


1992 Toyota Pickup--Formula Shell 10W-30--Fram PH3614
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: andyd] #4433195
06/16/17 10:27 AM
06/16/17 10:27 AM
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 630
Toronto
dgunay Offline
dgunay  Offline
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 630
Toronto
Originally Posted By: andyd
If the pads aren't down to bare metal and chewing up the rotors. Why replace the rotors? Get the OEM pads, because you like them. Wire brush the rotors to clean off any pad material, and simply replace the pads.


Read the first post carefully. You will see that OP is complaining about brake vibration, which is most likely caused by warped rotors. Replacing the pads won't change anything without resurfacing or replacing the rotors.


2009 Acura CSX - PUP 0w20 / Fram XG7317 / Maxlife ATF
2018 Kawasaki Z650 - Motul 4T 5100 10w40 / OEM Oil Filter
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4433250
06/16/17 11:26 AM
06/16/17 11:26 AM
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 12,903
Northern Kentucky
901Memphis Offline
901Memphis  Offline
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 12,903
Northern Kentucky
AKEBONO is the oem pad supplier I would get those. Make sure you get the right size there's two brake options.. I'm sure you have the heavy duty police package?


2012 Chevy Cruze LT 1.4T - 50k
2002 Buick Century 130k - Built 4T65e(Maxlife) - Edge 0w40 + Fram XG3980
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4433613
06/16/17 06:36 PM
06/16/17 06:36 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,816
USA
slacktide_bitog Offline
slacktide_bitog  Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,816
USA
My choice would be coated rotors like Centric Premium or Wagner E-shield, along with some quality name-brand pads like Wagner OEX, Thermoquiet, or Akebono ProACT

Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: tomcat27] #4434008
06/17/17 07:59 AM
06/17/17 07:59 AM
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,529
Central Maryland
HangFire Offline
HangFire  Offline
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,529
Central Maryland
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
I put a set of Powerstop rotors on a problem Toyota (the rotors would warp within a year; tried different brands) and never had a problem after that. the car is still running the same rotors 5 years later. of course, I used their drilled rotors.

I also put one of their better kits on a Caravan recently but its too soon to see how they hold up. (we used the drilled rotors on a Caravan... hahaha)

I don't know of a magic formula to avoid uneven runout/uneven pad material distribution.
I have done over hundred brake jobs and generally recommend the best parts that you can find - although not too many people are willing to put EBC rotors or the like on a car.

I have brake pulsing on a Sentra at only 42k miles; will be changing those out soon.


Do you measure parallelism and on-vehicle runout for each and every rotor/brake job? What is your bedding procedure?

Answer those questions, and you may find your magic. Quality parts are always a good choice, but there's no need to go boutique, especially if you are slapping those rotors on without a runout check. They'll end up as "warped" (straight rotors mounted crooked giving shudder over time) like all the rest.


Various musings: http://hangfire.net
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: rshaw125] #4434011
06/17/17 08:06 AM
06/17/17 08:06 AM
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,529
Central Maryland
HangFire Offline
HangFire  Offline
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,529
Central Maryland
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
On my Explorer I bought a set of Motorcraft pads off of ebay. Never replaced the rotors. The rears are still factory.


Since he has shudder, front rotor turning or replacement is in order, as dgunay already noted.

But you do make a good point about rears. Unless something is stuck, there is shudder, or unusual towing or racing wear and tear, chances are good that the rears have another 80K left in them. At this point, they are a good candidate for a tear-down, clean, inspection and lubrication. You can look at the pad thickness and decide when they need replacement. Of course, if any shudder remains for the rears, the rotors are a candidate for a skim, turn, or replacement.

Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4434023
06/17/17 08:19 AM
06/17/17 08:19 AM
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,529
Central Maryland
HangFire Offline
HangFire  Offline
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,529
Central Maryland
Originally Posted By: buck91
Shopping some of the online retailers I can pick up the low end Power Stop kit ("Auto Specialty" KOE6375) for under $200 front and rear inclusive. This is an EXTREMELY attractive price since a set of Frontline rotors from Advanced runs over 200 for front and rear. Along the same lines, though, I wonder if this is really a good deal or if you get what you pay for?

My Metric for pad quality is the friction rating. While some dismiss it, if accurately reported it is a good measure of pad quality. In general, I avoid EE pads. I use FE or EF pad only if that is the OEM spec and nothing better is available. Generally I shoot for GG rated pads. Unfortunately, most auto parts stores haven't caught on and don't even list the rating. You can always call and ask them to read it off the packaging or pad shrink-wrap.

Another point about pad selection, since you are pleased with OE performance, get the same pad type. If semi-metallic, get that, if ceramic, get that.

My Metric for rotor quality is the parallelism and runout Guarantee. If there is none, I won't buy it. You'll notice better brands like Centric list these specs. As you climb their price ladder, the specs get better. Ideally Parallelism is zero and Runout has to be less than .004", you'll notice as you move up into the better brands of rotors that the runout guarantee is smaller and smaller. You get what you pay for, unless you choose poorly.

Of course, off-vehicle runout doesn't guarantee on-vehicle runout. If the hubs have rust, grit, corrosion, flash, peening, or are just a bit crooked, your straight new rotors will mount eccentric, and you will develop shudder over time. (That's when people declare a rotor "warped"; it may be a straight rotor mounted crooked, it just takes time for pad material build-up to develop shudder).

In short, your choice of rotor brand and model is almost meaningless unless you are doing an on-vehicle runout check like this:


Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4434588
06/17/17 07:58 PM
06/17/17 07:58 PM
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,572
West Michigan
buck91 Online content OP
buck91  Online Content OP
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,572
West Michigan
Does anybody have insight into Motorcraft part numbers and applications? RA shows three different front rotors for the HD brakes (as listed below) and at least two of those numbers show up on the VIN search on ford-parts.com. Not sure if there would be any difference or reason to choose one above the other?

BRRF318
BRR252
BRRF202


2011 F150 4x4 5.0L
1996 Mustang GT 5spd/ragtop
Re: Replacing brakes on the Explorer Sport [Re: buck91] #4434715
06/17/17 11:04 PM
06/17/17 11:04 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 11,323
Santa Barbara, CA
bdcardinal Offline
bdcardinal  Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 11,323
Santa Barbara, CA
Shoot me your VIN and I can tell you what your vehicle calls for.


2014 Ford Mustang GT Track Pack
1995 Ford Mustang GT

Ford/Mazda Parts Counter
NRA Benefactor Member
Opinions expressed are my own.
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