GM LSx Exhaust manifold clamp fix. Works great!

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ls1mike

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So it is pretty common on the Truck motors to break the front and or rear most exhaust manifold bolt.
I knew it would happen on my truck eventually. Noticed it this past camping trip.

So the rear one on the passenger side and the front one on the drivers side broke. (They use the same clamp). It was nice because they broke off below the manifold. They have to be ground if they are not for this kit to work.

You can see the front drivers side one here.

The bolts are just too small to handle the heat cycles seen even in normal driving. Towing wears them out quick. It is only the outer most ones as they see the most flex
The bracket bolts into the head and use a bolt that you screw down to apply force on the manifold.
Sealed mine up first time because I caught it early. Some people do a few heat cycles and retighten the bolt this will usually seal it.
This is the Doorman clamp, probably one of the best things they make.

The large hole is to the clear the temp sensor on the drivers side.
Installed on the passenger side.


With the bolt that applies pressure.


Tons of LSx guys use them. 50 bucks VS pulling the heads and drilling them out. It is meant to be a permanent fix. We will see.
Some people already have 200,000 miles on them and they work great.
They make them for Dodge gassers and the Tundra too, none for Fords, but the Ford owners wish they did.
Nothing for the diesel. I guess they breaks exhaust manifold bolts also.
Towing is a tough duty cycle.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Is this a problem on the 5.3's or just the 6.0?

4.8, 5.3, 5.7 (LS1), 6.0, 6.2...Any LSx.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Is this a problem on the 5.3's or just the 6.0?


Have you checked yours? I only found mine by accident. Wife started it and I heard a slight tick from outside. Checked it Sunday and found the broken stud/bolts. These worked awesome. I had both on in under 50 mins.
LOTS of guys are using them.
 
Originally Posted By: 9050lx
Slick idea!Wish I thought of it.

It really is, but you know model A's used a clamp system and not a stud. Works so much better.
I would bet money I never have to pull these off.
 
If you have the time I would change out the 10MM original manifold bolts to the newer 13MM bolts. I swapped them out in my truck as preventative maintenance and crossed my fingers to make sure none of them didn't snap.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I hate to look, but i will check this weekend.

It is a really easy fix. They make them for every bolt on those manifolds.
It will cure any some leans conditions if the leak is bad, smooth out the idle and quiet it up.
 
Originally Posted By: Kibitoshin
If you have the time I would change out the 10MM original manifold bolts to the newer 13MM bolts. I swapped them out in my truck as preventative maintenance and crossed my fingers to make sure none of them didn't snap.

Someday if I have to pull the heads. I will leave these on there for as long as can. Seems they work well for lots of people.
 
Originally Posted By: Kibitoshin
If you have the time I would change out the 10MM original manifold bolts to the newer 13MM bolts. I swapped them out in my truck as preventative maintenance and crossed my fingers to make sure none of them didn't snap.


Did they change the shaft size or just the head?
 
Originally Posted By: ls1mike
Originally Posted By: Kibitoshin
If you have the time I would change out the 10MM original manifold bolts to the newer 13MM bolts. I swapped them out in my truck as preventative maintenance and crossed my fingers to make sure none of them didn't snap.


Did they change the shaft size or just the head?


Just the head size.
 
"If mine are not broken, i wonder if ARP makes bolts that i could change out."

I would use ARP studs with fine thread nuts. Screw them in hand tight after chasing the threads, if they break now, should come out easy.
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Originally Posted By: ls1mike
Originally Posted By: Kibitoshin
If you have the time I would change out the 10MM original manifold bolts to the newer 13MM bolts. I swapped them out in my truck as preventative maintenance and crossed my fingers to make sure none of them didn't snap.

Someday if I have to pull the heads. I will leave these on there for as long as can. Seems they work well for lots of people.


Mike, you shouldn't have to pull the heads to get those out. The ones I've had to do, I have pulled the wheel off, then removed the inner fender (pretty easy), then you have fairly straight access to them. The worst of course is the driver's rear- those can be had with a super short drill bit and a right angle drill for the front one of the two. For the back one, I don't think a right angle drill will get in there, but using the same super short bit and (oddly) a long drill extension, you can. The short bit and chuck fit in the little nook in the firewall and the extension gets the drill out away to where you can use it. You may have to drill at a slight angle- it likely won't be perfect, BUT, it will get the job done and it beats pulling the head. Also, I'm thinking there is some sort of heat shield or insulation that needs to be removed or pushed aside to allow a better shot at it.

BUT BEFORE going through all that drama, just try unscrewing it. If there is about 1/4"-5/16" of bolt sticking out- oftentimes you can back them out.


Here is the drill extension I'm referring to: Drill extension

And this is the stud remover I use: AST stud tool
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: ls1mike
Originally Posted By: Kibitoshin
If you have the time I would change out the 10MM original manifold bolts to the newer 13MM bolts. I swapped them out in my truck as preventative maintenance and crossed my fingers to make sure none of them didn't snap.

Someday if I have to pull the heads. I will leave these on there for as long as can. Seems they work well for lots of people.


Mike, you shouldn't have to pull the heads to get those out. The ones I've had to do, I have pulled the wheel off, then removed the inner fender (pretty easy), then you have fairly straight access to them. The worst of course is the driver's rear- those can be had with a super short drill bit and a right angle drill for the front one of the two. For the back one, I don't think a right angle drill will get in there, but using the same super short bit and (oddly) a long drill extension, you can. The short bit and chuck fit in the little nook in the firewall and the extension gets the drill out away to where you can use it. You may have to drill at a slight angle- it likely won't be perfect, BUT, it will get the job done and it beats pulling the head. Also, I'm thinking there is some sort of heat shield or insulation that needs to be removed or pushed aside to allow a better shot at it.

BUT BEFORE going through all that drama, just try unscrewing it. If there is about 1/4"-5/16" of bolt sticking out- oftentimes you can back them out.


Here is the drill extension I'm referring to: Drill extension

And this is the stud remover I use: AST stud tool


I started it up this AM cold, silent. I will keep these on until I have to pull the manifolds for anything. The were broke off below the manifold, so they will need to be drilled out. Not sure I want to mess with it right now.
 
Originally Posted By: Rhymingmechanic
Thanks, Mike, for pointing out a problem I didn't know I had.




LOL. Easy fix man remove that bolts for the bracket with the battery connection, remove spark plug wire, install part. Reassemble.
10 mins.

Clean the mounting holes out really well!

Glad you found it. It would have eventually got worse and warped the manifold.

What is your vehicle?
 
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