4L80e

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I'm wondering if there is any identifying marks on torque converters, if so where and how to decipher. Anyway my 4L80e went [censored] up so I bought a used one to drive on while I do a performance rebuild on my bad one. I'm wanting to verify that the two converters are the same stall and everything before I install it this evening. I'm not sure if the one in bad tranny is bad or not and didn't want to chance it. Don't want the Burb to run/drive different though either cuz she's fast for 6000#. Lol. Is there a way to determine the condition of a torque converter? Oh, one more thing, everything I've been able to find says that 9DLP and 0DMP are just mfg codes but I still would prefer verbal confirmation of that. Thanks,
 
I've got a 99 burb k2500 with the 4L80e trans, I recently smoked it so I bought a used one to install while I do a performance rebuild on the smoked one. The used one is from an 04 Silverado which is compatible with mine. My question is that mine is stamped with 9DLP and the other is ODMP, everything I can find on the subject suggests that this is just a mfg tag code and reveals date made and location. So here's my question, really this time. Lol. That tag code has nothing to do with the internals and the compatibility between the two correct? And how do I know which stall converter the bought one has in it? And is there a test that can be performed to check if mine is still good? Also I'd like some suggestions on rebuild kits to use on the performance end of the spectrum. Not super super performance though, the thing weighs 6000#. Lol. Think im already gonna do the transgo shift improver, really interested in upgrades to pump, solenoids, separator plate, valves, steels, etc. can't afford the billet aluminum housings but a man can wish. Lol. May not want them for that heavy sob anyway. One more question, the check ball seats in my case are worn a bit, I haven't been able to find much in the way of how to proceed with that issue other than it should be ok as long as the ball still seats completely. Well duh! Lol. Are there any retro fit kits? Thanks guys
 
There are a few good trans guys that im sure will chime in. As far as the check ball seats I know that sometimes they have you hit the checkball while its in its pocket to create a new seat for the ball to seal against.
 
The Converter will have a sticker on it, Generally on the side facing the pump for 310mm 4L80E converters. You need the 4 digit numerical code in the colored part (Green, Blue, Gold etc.)
 
Originally Posted By: 99Burb454
everything I've been able to find says that 9DLP and 0DMP are just mfg codes but I still would prefer verbal confirmation of that. Thanks,


9DLP is a 1999 model, 0DMP is a 2000 model. Though it could stand for 2009 & 2010 but I highly doubt it.

2003 3MJP pictured, Notice the HYDRAMATIC script, This is how 2003 & up 4L80E cases look, '99-'02 say 4L80E on them.

 
Really? Mine is a 99 and it says hydramatic on the side of it. Unless it's not the stock trans. The guy I bought it from is a mechanic so he may have swapped it out. The 4x4 extension housing is billet aluminum which I found odd since the new/used one I bought has a cast iron extension housing. Thank you for confirming my tag ID question, really would've bummed me out to have pull that sucker back out again
 
Clinebarger, I just realized you were who I replied to previously. You're the reason I signed up for this forum in the first place. Lol. You seem to be the go to guy for 4L80e questions of which I have plenty. Lol
 
Originally Posted By: 99Burb454
Also I'd like some suggestions on rebuild kits to use on the performance end of the spectrum. Not super super performance though, the thing weighs 6000#. Lol. Think im already gonna do the transgo shift improver, really interested in upgrades to pump, solenoids, separator plate, valves, steels, etc. can't afford the billet aluminum housings but a man can wish. Lol. May not want them for that heavy sob anyway. One more question, the check ball seats in my case are worn a bit, I haven't been able to find much in the way of how to proceed with that issue other than it should be ok as long as the ball still seats completely. Well duh! Lol. Are there any retro fit kits? Thanks guys


Check Ball pocket wear on the Case side is normal & causes no harm, They seal against the Separator Plate....If the plate has wear, Replace it.

Replace all Solenoids & Pressure Switch Manifold with AC-Delco or Borg Warner replacements. Rostra makes good replacement harnesses if yours is damaged/leaking. Use a Filtran or Allomatic filter. DO NOT use vasoline or wheel bearing grease for assembly.....The filter will clog. Filtran makes dedicated assembly lubes (I like TransJel Red). Buy a assembly manual, ATSG is OK & cheap enough.

Pump Upgrades.....Check for wear in the pump gear pocket before doing mods!
...Drill the seal drain-back to .250", Prevents hydraulic front seal blowout.
...Drill a .055"-.067" hole between Line Pressure & Converter Charge passages, This will provide converter charge & lubrication regardless on the pressure regulator valve position.
...Drill the Stator to O/D lube hole out to .125", Increases lube flow to the overdrive section.
...Install Sonnax Part# 4L80E-LB1 line booster kit, Large ratio boost valve & 10% over PR Spring, (Good to 600 ft. lbs.)
...Install a new pump/converter bushing & BOTH Stator Bushings!
...Install a new set of Pump Gears, If your budjet allows.....Install THESE









 
Before I continue with assembly modifications, (I should have done this first).....

You don't need fancy "High Performance" frictions or steels. A Trans-Go shift kit is a complete waste of money on a 4L80E....This NOT a 4T65E or a 4L60E for that matter!! Shift/Correction kits are consumer grade products designed to correct issues in the easiest possible way.

My 4L80E build techniques/instructions are NOT meant to be used with any kind of Shift/Correction Kit.
 
Overrun Housing lube modifications.
...Drill out lube hole out to .125"
...Replace the Bushing with a Fluted Sun Gear Shaft Bushing, This will channel a steady supply of lube to the OverDrive Carrier.

Bushing kits come with 2 Sun Gear Shaft Bushings that you will need for the Sun Gear Shaft.....You will need to buy an extra one.



 
Center Support lube & Direct Dual Feed modifications.
...Drill out the Intermediate Sparg & Clutch lube feed hole to .125"
...Omit the second from the top Sealing Ring, If you have access to a lathe.....Machine off the "Ring Lands" for the omitted sealing ring, This quickens the release of the Direct Clutch. The Support shown has been machined.
...Replace the Center Support Bushing, DO NOT beat it out & back in with a hammer...Use a hydraulic or more preferably, An Arbor Press.
...Replace the Cooler Fitting Seal.

 
Direct Clutch & Housing modifications.
...Omit the Center Lip Seal with assembling the drum, This is the Lip Seal that is mounted in the drum
The following is Optional.....
...If revving over 5,500 RPM, Drill a .055" at the edge of the piston apply area at a 45 degree angle, The picture shown is of a direct drum for a fixed line pressure/Trans brake TH400....The hole is much larger than .055"
...Install a Aluminum TH400 Direct Apply Piston along with High Rate Piston Return Springs, Provides better/larger "Work Surface Area" & Deep spring pockets.
TH400 piston, retainer, & spring kit.... HERE







 
Man alive!!! THANK YOU CLINEBARGER!!! This is awesome information, you have just made my day!!!! Are there any areas I need to pay special attention to after disassembly and during inspection of the innards or will the ATSG guide alert me to those? Man! You are a life saver!! I don't know if you've ever dropped a trans with a regular hydraulic jack while laying underneath your truck that's sitting in the street in the dark after work each day but good knight that was a horrible experience and I do not ever wish to do it again. Lol. One more question, on another thread we had talked about my torque converter and the possibility of my truck driving different with the new trans and tc from a newer model vehicle. Well it does drive different, my old trans would make my truck take off like a rocket and you could hear it in the motor that it was grabbing good when accelerating and hitting approx 3000 rpm when in 2nd gear. Now this trans and tc doesn't do this and is actually quite sluggish and slow in shifting, even when lifting a bit on throttle to ease shifting. This thing just has no ooomph. Lol. Possible causes? Or maybe the trans that went bad had some mods already? Thanks once again! Very much brother!!! Thank you!! Thank you!!
 
Rollerizing the Output......

Parts needed....
TH350/TH125 Pump Bearing, GM part# 9436851
TH350 Unit End-play Shims (assortment)
Sonnax 34006-SP Bushing (Special instructions!)

Before tearing the unit down, Check rear unit end-play & record the reading, This will give a very good baseline when setting final end-play upon assembly.
If you do find a bad Torrington, Sun-Gear, Carrier, Etc in the lower half....This measurement was for naught, But if your reusing everything....It can save alot of time.

Case Bushing installation & Tech....

'97 & up Center Lube 4L80E ONLY.......Using a Sonnax 34006-SP, Sit the bushing in the back of the case & mark the location of the 2 lube holes on the lip of the bushing. Take a file & file 2 "V's" though the lip of the bushing. This will eliminate the bushing lip from restricting lube flow to the Case Bushing & Extension Housing Bushing.
Coat the O.D. with Red Loctite. Drive the bushing in from the BACK of the case, This is opposite from the directions that come with the bushing. Seat the bushing all the way & it will be sticking up out of the case far enough to register the bearing without you having to measure.


Case Lube Hole Locations


Bushing Modification Drawing


Sonnax 34006-SP, Install with lip toward the rear of the case!
 
Geartrain End Play & Rear Unit End play

Measure the thickness of the 3-Tab selectable Washer & 4-Tab Thrust Washer, (Measure them while stacked together)
Lets say they measure .150" & your pre-teardown end play was .025"......You will want the Bearing & Shims to measure .170".....This will give you about .005" rear unit endplay, You can run as tight as .003" with a bearing on the Output. .008" is my limit.

Install the Shims then the Bearing over the Bushing (Silver side UP, Black side DOWN.

Before stacking the geartrain in the Case, Check the Reaction Carrier End Play buy stacking the unit up to the Center Support on the bench, Use both your thumbs to hold the center support down while lifting the reaction carrier up with your fingers. There is not really a way to use a Dial Indicator here so you have to go by feel.
Set to .008" to .015" using Sonnax shim pack 34006-05

"IF" the old Brass REAR thrust washer is in good shape.......Replace the Plastic Thrust Washer between the 2 Carriers with it, They are about the same thickness (.060") & the Sonnax shims work with it also.

You can now stack the trans up to the Center Support, Install the center support snap ring & check rear unit end play.

Selectable & Thrust on the bottom, Bearing & Shims on top


Bearing & Shim installed in the Case, The Bearing is upside down in the photo!


Check Reaction Carrier End Play.


Replace the Plastic Thrust on the Output Carrier with the Brass Washer you removed from the Output Shaft.

Plastic



Brass


Final Check Rear Unit End Play
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Great pics thanks! If i need a trans , can i send it to you?


Absolutely, The easiest way I've found to ship a unit back & forth is through Fastenal Third Party Logistics, You drop your crated transmission off at your local Fastenal, They freight it to my local Fastenal & I pick it up.

I use to work on every trans under the sun, I now specialize in Powerglide, TH400, TH350, TH200, 200-4R, 700R4, 4L60E, 4L80E, & Allison 1000, I will build a performance A727, C4, C6 if needed.
 
Great info from an AT tranny expert.
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It's great having a man like clinebarger on this site. He gives out great info and pictures.
 
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