2002 Infiniti G20 SR20DE nput needed

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Hey everyone,

Been posting on a few forums and Facebook pages trying to get as much info and insight as I can.

Recently bought a 2002 Infiniti G20, 209K miles running and driving great, for $800

Long story short, I decided to replace the valve stem seals (possible cause for some oil burning, not sure) and in the process, I broke a valve in Cylinder 1. That brings me to my current situation of removing the head, inspecting the head, replacing the necessary components and reinstalling the head with a new head gasket, head bolts and then making sure the timing is correct. The chain has honestly been all over the place, so I need to make sure I reinstall the chain appropriately, possibly replace, with the crank and the cam sprockets. So I'll also need to remove the oil pans and crank pulley.

Anyone here familiar with an SR20DE? Hopefully my endeavor isn't in vain.

Also, I bought replacement CV axles to replace the current boot torn CV's, and have just been informed it may be best to rebuild the OEM CV axles due to the balancer on the CV shafts from the factory being omitted on aftermarket CV axles. Anyone have some more info about that?
 
I did order 2 replacement CV axles, but one of the axles is wrong. Whipped up a quick image in paint to show significant differences that are not specified when purchasing:

 
There are multiple good chain replacement writeups on SR20forum.com

If you need parts help check with Greg Vogel at G-spec Performance.

Good luck and congrats on your purchase. G20's make great project cars.
 
Ya there should be more than enough info out there on that motor. That's a popular one to hop up. Beware of new cheap cv axles. We have seen the price of them at our shop and decided why spend the time re booting them. Let's just toss an axle in it.....now all those cars are coming back with various noise complaints and its all coming from whatever axle we just did. We now send them to the driveline shop to have the CV axles overhauled
 
The difference is with or without limited slip differential. The original you took off is a base model without limited slip. The touring models have limited slip and do not have that split section on the axle.
 
Originally Posted By: NASTI
The difference is with or without limited slip differential. The original you took off is a base model without limited slip. The touring models have limited slip and do not have that split section on the axle.


That's where things got strange. My "base" model is actually a sport, and a fella told me an easy way to check for LSD was to rotate one of the tires while the car is lifted up. There is a lot of drag, so apparently that indicates the transmission in my sport is an LSD auto.

Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
There are multiple good chain replacement writeups on SR20forum.com

If you need parts help check with Greg Vogel at G-spec Performance.

Good luck and congrats on your purchase. G20's make great project cars.


Greg Vogel, I think I've read that name somewhere around. Thanks for the heads up on that source!

SR20 has a lot of rear wheel drive SR20 writeups. They are a help, but there are a few differences I'm finding about my 2002 Sport's SR20. I did print out the FSM instructions on head removal. Currently stuck at removing the power steering pump, oil filter bracket, PS bracket and starter. The head won't budge, so I assume it's still being held on by these components.
 
There is still a ton of data on FWD at www.se-r.net. which is the original SR20 forum (thank you Larry). Input from guys like Dave Coleman, Mike Kojima and a host of other talented guys. Coleman is now Miata Engineering Director at Mazda USA. Kojima, former Nissan Racing, has www.motoiq.com
You couldn't find nicer, smarter guys if you looked...forever. It was a great community back then with lots of innovation in brakes, turbos, suspension. We had a blast. Your G20 is second gen I believe but much of the B13 genes were still nearly identical. Let us know how you're doing.
 
As luck would have it, I just looked at Motoiq and find that Kojima has a G20 racing project currently underway. I haven't read it yet but you can be sure it'll be useful and interesting to you as you begin your G20 journey.
 
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
There is still a ton of data on FWD at www.se-r.net. which is the original SR20 forum (thank you Larry). Input from guys like Dave Coleman, Mike Kojima and a host of other talented guys. Coleman is now Miata Engineering Director at Mazda USA. Kojima, former Nissan Racing, has www.motoiq.com
You couldn't find nicer, smarter guys if you looked...forever. It was a great community back then with lots of innovation in brakes, turbos, suspension. We had a blast. Your G20 is second gen I believe but much of the B13 genes were still nearly identical. Let us know how you're doing.


I like the car, but how much stuff I need to remove the head is insane lol

I think I'm down to power steering pump and bracket, alternator bracket and starter.

Hopefully the head will be in good enough shape.

Good to find that SR20DE roller rockers aren't particularly hard to come by, just in case I need to just replace the current 209k mile motor.

Although some of those turbo setups look enticing.
 
Does Raxles make axles for your car? They are supposed to be the best.

Otherwise, Cardone's reman axles are a good choice. They only rebuild OE cores. Cardone makes most reman axles out there, including Autozone and Napa reman. Autozone offers a lifetime warranty on their reman axles.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Does Raxles make axles for your car? They are supposed to be the best.

Otherwise, Cardone's reman axles are a good choice. They only rebuild OE cores. Cardone makes most reman axles out there, including Autozone and Napa reman. Autozone offers a lifetime warranty on their reman axles.


I emailed Raxles right away, once I saw the torn boots on my current CV's. They don't offer anything for a 2002 G20
frown.gif


The confusion as to what CV's I need is frustrating. I don't have a G20T, but since mine is a sport, apparently it is not a Base model either. I did get a heads up that the 2002 Sport variation seems to use the same axles as a G20T, and that if an aftermarket CV axle doesn't have this balancer/insulator thing that OEM axles have, it makes little to no difference in performance.
 
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
As luck would have it, I just looked at Motoiq and find that Kojima has a G20 racing project currently underway. I haven't read it yet but you can be sure it'll be useful and interesting to you as you begin your G20 journey.


Man the SR20DE they built as "bulletproof" sure looks nice.

I wouldn't venture that far into my G20, I just want to get this thing to be a nice daily driver that has a few bells and whistles, but mostly reliability and fuel economy.

Now a bulletproof VG30DETT would be nice in my Z lol
 
I feel for you on those CV'S. More than once I got right to the end of the installation to find it just wouldn't go in. At first you think it's the circlip on the transmission end getting out of position (this after refridgerating (!) grease so it would stick on the end while you pushed it in) and using a little pursuation as well. THEN it's an an inch too long or whatever the issue was that particular time. The urge to kill as they say..... You might do two things to move yourself along.

Call Courtesy Nissan in Dallas at 1-800-527-1909 and see if they can cross ref a part number for you. Be aware though that even Nissan has stopped production on some axles. Still, check them out. Do the same with Vogel, mentioned earlier. The other would be to go to an Infiniti dealer and eyeball the part and part numbers if they have any so as to pin down exactly what you're searching for. If they have any try to beat their price down for those poor "orphan" parts (snif) that they will probably never sell...
grin.gif


Remember, it's not impossible. It only seems that way. Cheers.
 
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
I feel for you on those CV'S. More than once I got right to the end of the installation to find it just wouldn't go in. At first you think it's the circlip on the transmission end getting out of position (this after refridgerating (!) grease so it would stick on the end while you pushed it in) and using a little pursuation as well. THEN it's an an inch too long or whatever the issue was that particular time. The urge to kill as they say..... You might do two things to move yourself along.

Call Courtesy Nissan in Dallas at 1-800-527-1909 and see if they can cross ref a part number for you. Be aware though that even Nissan has stopped production on some axles. Still, check them out. Do the same with Vogel, mentioned earlier. The other would be to go to an Infiniti dealer and eyeball the part and part numbers if they have any so as to pin down exactly what you're searching for. If they have any try to beat their price down for those poor "orphan" parts (snif) that they will probably never sell...
grin.gif


Remember, it's not impossible. It only seems that way. Cheers.


I really wish a had a full build sheet for this G20. That way I'd know what to resource easier.
 
Just an update, I went ahead and purchased a clean JDM SR20DE. Replaced the water pump and thermostat to find the water passages look brand new. Replaced the valve cover gasket and saw the inside of the valves are clean with a slight bit of surface rust that washed away when I added some oil on the cams. Presumably from all the moisture in the air from all the rain we've had lately. Probably going to stick with high mileage oils in this block, like PPP HM, Castrol EDGE HM and/or Valvoline MaxLife FS 5w30's.

Also looked down into the spark plug tubes and saw the piston heads look very clean too.

The rear main seal and front crank seal look great, but I'm going to go ahead and install new "upgraded" Mahle crank seals. Apparently the Mahle/Victor Reinz seals have a bigger sealing lip than the normal seals from FelPro or National. Only cost an extra buck too, just have to wait till Tuesday to receive them.

Hopefully everything gets back together by Wednesday and I can start driving it again.
 
oh! and I was able to return and exchange the CV axles so I currently have new ones from CarQuest and the ones I pulled out that I would like to rebuild if possible. May be unnecessary though.
 
I just posted in another thread about favorite cleaning oils... I'm thinking of getting a cheap 5w30 to sort of "clean" the internals of the JDM motor for 50-100 miles. Maybe throw in some MMO or Seafoam.

Then go with PPP HM 5w30 and a Fram Tough Guard filter after. Hmmm...
 
Originally Posted By: Nissan101
i wont recommend 5w30 for a sr20.
0w40, or if u have good climate 20w50 in my case.


Oh wow that's thick!
Why recommend a thick oil like 0w40 or 20w50?
 
Ended up going with Pennzoil Euro 0w40
Anyone know anything about the Platinum Euro 0w40? I saw a few old threads about Ultra 0w40.

Hopefully has a nice add-pack
laugh.gif
 
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