2AZ-FE. Does viscosity matter for oil consumption?

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So my 2007 Camry 2.4L with 90k miles burns about a quart of oil every 3k miles, which isn't that bad for the 2AZ-FE Toyota engine (and well shy of the 1.2 quart per 1,100 - 1,300 mile consumption test for the rebuild). I got the car at 60k and ran 0W-20 Pennzoil Platinum in it for about 25k miles. Last oil change I switched up to 5W-20 PP High Mileage for the seal conditioners. Now I am trying to determine whether to go up to 5W-30 PP High Mileage or stay at 20.

The reason for my indecision is the nature of the problem with the 2AZ-FE consumption issue. Given my understanding of the issue (the oil return holes in the piston rings were milled too small and become clogged), it seems to me that increasing the oil viscosity would allow less oil to pass through, resulting in greater burn off. However, it seems that many people with this engine utilize the 30 viscosity oil over the 20 anyway. I don't think my consumption has increased using the 20 viscosity PP, but if it will potentially burn less per OCI with 30, then why not?

Is my thought process on this issue wrong?
 
Someone on here recently posted they switched to 0W-40 (Scion engine? I don't remember)
and all oil consumption problems went away.

It's worth a shot.
 
Rainman49 is doing it on his '07 Camry.

1 qt every 3000 miles is nowhere near the problem these engines have. I would have the same reservations as you, switching to a thicker oil may reduce consumption, but is it at a price? There is already poor flow due to the design issue, a thicker oil may make it worse (or maybe not).

At your current consumption rate, I would not change to a thicker oil, but that is just me personally. I have the same engine in the xB, but still at low miles with no issues (yet, knock on wood). I hope that doing 5k oil changes with a synthetic xw-20 oil will help prevent this problem though. The first 5 changes were done at the dealer using 5w-20 TGMO every 3500-4500 miles.
 
If it is the oil return holes in the pistons getting plugged, maybe do several 1000 mile oil changes with a high detergent oil to clean the carbon/sludge from the motor. Take it for a good long drive on the highway.
 
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Yes, the only way to truly fix the consumption that year is a teardown for the upgraded piston with bigger oil return holes. Nothing, nothing can clear the carbon in the piston holes other than a drill. A 5w30, even 10w30 are fine. Won't hurt it. Going to a thicker oil is better than burning tons of oil for that engine. Will be plugging up the catalyst before long. And it may be getting worse burning a lot of oil will jam the rings. You could try taking the plastic intake manifold off and/or spark plugs and try soaking the cylinder topss with "something" for a day. That may help keep the rings free. I use wd40 and carb cleaner. Then change the oil. Slowed the burning some for about 40k, then I had to do it again. But I also had valve seal issues. You should check that. Ran till 345k before the consumption finally ate a valve and that was it.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Yes, the only way to truly fix the consumption that year is a teardown for the upgraded piston with bigger oil return holes. Nothing, nothing can clear the carbon in the piston holes other than a drill. A 5w30, even 10w30 are fine. Won't hurt it. Going to a thicker oil is better than burning tons of oil for that engine. Will be plugging up the catalyst before long. And it may be getting worse burning a lot of oil will jam the rings. You could try taking the plastic intake manifold off and soaking the cylinders with "something". That may help keep the rings free. I use wd40 and carb cleaner. Slowed the burning some. But I also had valve seal issues. You should check that.


Unfortunately she isn't going to qualify for the rebuild within the time limit Toyota set, so these secondary control methods are what I am going for (I'm not going to pay to rebuild a 10 year old engine, either...). I am going to switch up to the 30 viscosity and see what happens, while maintaining my 4k to 5k OCIs. I am hoping that the holes are still open enough that the oil flow will remain sufficient while the decrease in burn off will keep them from getting any more clogged. I only hope that switching up doesn't act as a band aid or just mask the issue while clogging the holes more than running the 20 viscosity would.

Ultimately, I suppose that if it is burning less, it isn't making the issue worse.
 
The consumption will kill that engine long before a thicker oil will, that I am sure of. IMO its the design of the block. The modified pistons are a band aid to the thin aluminum block, the areas around the piston don't dissipate heat well. Fries the oil solid in the holes.

And no, the consumption issues did not go away when they switched to the 2.5L I4. My dad's 2012 Camry is starting to burn a quart of 0w20 every 5k. Not good for a 10k OCI.
 
+1 LeakySeals. My engine starts burning oil around 5k with 5W30 motor oil. Less with conventional, more with synthetic. 04 2AZFE's were not even on the Toyota TSB for the warranty enhancement. I'm using 10W30 QS Defy so we'll see how much it consumes in 6,000 miles.
 
My knowledge on oil characteristics is minimal, but maybe oil flash point is what we should be looking at instead of viscosity for this issue.

5W-20 PP HM has a 207 Celsius flash point and the 5W-30 has a 206 Celsius. M1 5W-20 HM lists at 244 Celsius and 5W-30 at 230 Celsius. That isn't a major difference, but it is something. Could the areas around the pistons even be hitting/exceeding those temperatures?
 
I used M1 HM 5w30 on my 2002 2AZ-FE but it was to help with leaks and bad valve seals not your problem. HM oil really makes no difference for your problem. HM oils are most effective for seals and rubber issues. If you're a 2007-2009 2AZ-FE with 60k+ miles, burning gobs of oil, its too late for thin high flashpoint synthetic oils. Its pull the pistons, drill out the holes, replace the pistons, sell the vehicle, or go with a thicker oil. Preferably conventional. You seem to like pennzoil products, use the yellow bottle in a 5w30, 10w30, 10w40 I bet its a whole lot better. No thin syn for that engine, causes more problems than it solves.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I used M1 HM 5w30 on my 2002 2AZ-FE but it was to help with leaks and bad valve seals not your problem. HM oil really makes no difference for your problem. HM oils are most effective for seals and rubber issues. If you're a 2007-2009 2AZ-FE with 60k+ miles, burning gobs of oil, its too late for thin high flashpoint synthetic oils. Its pull the pistons, drill out the holes, replace the pistons, sell the vehicle, or go with a thicker oil. Preferably conventional. You seem to like pennzoil products, use the yellow bottle in a 5w30, 10w30, 10w40 I bet its a whole lot better. No thin syn for that engine, causes more problems than it solves.


Ever since I replace the pcv valve on my 09' Camry, my consumption is 0. After this run of DELO XLE 10w30, I'm going to try QSGB or Chevron supreme or GTX 5w30 or 10w30
 
Originally Posted By: car51
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I used M1 HM 5w30 on my 2002 2AZ-FE but it was to help with leaks and bad valve seals not your problem. HM oil really makes no difference for your problem. HM oils are most effective for seals and rubber issues. If you're a 2007-2009 2AZ-FE with 60k+ miles, burning gobs of oil, its too late for thin high flashpoint synthetic oils. Its pull the pistons, drill out the holes, replace the pistons, sell the vehicle, or go with a thicker oil. Preferably conventional. You seem to like pennzoil products, use the yellow bottle in a 5w30, 10w30, 10w40 I bet its a whole lot better. No thin syn for that engine, causes more problems than it solves.


Ever since I replace the pcv valve on my 09' Camry, my consumption is 0. After this run of DELO XLE 10w30, I'm going to try QSGB or Chevron supreme or GTX 5w30 or 10w30

You're one lucky dude, 90% of the time its not that for 07-09. But hey, sure why not try that. Assume you got the OEM PCV. I got an aftermarket, was awful loud, had to replace with the OEM.
 
Yep, $8.09 "cost" thru Toyota dealer at work and valve cover gasket to be replaced for $9.88
smile.gif


Maybe mine being old couple owned and mostly highway miles helped, dunno. I definitely don't like that baffle under valve cover though. Anyway to remove that?
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
But I also had valve seal issues. You should check that. Ran till 345k before the consumption finally ate a valve and that was it.

I'm curios, how did oil consumption result in a valve being "eaten"?
 
When the engine finally died a mechanic scoped it. Valve fell apart, did a number on the engine. Excess carbon buildup from oil consumption on the valves long term was what a few different mechanics agreed on as the failure cause. I guess that buildup causes excess heat, makes the valve brittle over time.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
When the engine finally died a mechanic scoped it. Valve fell apart, did a number on the engine. Excess carbon buildup from oil consumption on the valves long term was what a few different mechanics agreed on as the failure cause. I guess that buildup causes excess heat, makes the valve brittle over time.

Thanks! The engine must have had a good amount of blow-by. Was it an intake or exhaust valve?
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I used M1 HM 5w30 on my 2002 2AZ-FE but it was to help with leaks and bad valve seals not your problem. HM oil really makes no difference for your problem. HM oils are most effective for seals and rubber issues. If you're a 2007-2009 2AZ-FE with 60k+ miles, burning gobs of oil, its too late for thin high flashpoint synthetic oils. Its pull the pistons, drill out the holes, replace the pistons, sell the vehicle, or go with a thicker oil. Preferably conventional. You seem to like pennzoil products, use the yellow bottle in a 5w30, 10w30, 10w40 I bet its a whole lot better. No thin syn for that engine, causes more problems than it solves.


Mine isn't past the point of no return yet, I just hate cars that consume oil.

Did you ever bother with something like Kreen? I've seen suggestions to run 16 ounces per 2000ish miles with a 30 viscosity oil and a good filter if the system isn't totally plugged up. But I can't find too much on if/how it ultimately impacts consumption from the 2AZ-FE issue.
 
5w30 burned considerably less than 0w20 in my 08 Scion tC with the 2azfe. If I still had the car, I probably wouldve went back to the 5w30. Mine didnt burn a ton, about 1 quart every 2500. With 5w30 it hardly consumed anything.
 
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