O2 sensor will not break free

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Ok im trying to replace the bank 1 upper o2 sensor on my buick. It's the one located right next to the firewall and that sucker will not break free for anything. I have soaked it in pb blaster, heated it up by running the car down the road till it was heated up enough.

All I know to do at this point is put a torch to it and go from there hoping it will work. If you guys have any suggestions, I'm open to them.
 
You need a very deep 6pt impact socket, impact wobble and extensions with an impact gun or long 1/2 breaker bar, this will require cutting the wire off. Propane isn't doing much anything for that, you could use a real smoke wrench on the bung first.
If its that tight don't use a split socket it can round it off then you have a real fiasco. If you don't have the tools and torches take it to a mechanic it will probably save you a lot of grief.
 
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
Ok im trying to replace the bank 1 upper o2 sensor on my buick. It's the one located right next to the firewall and that sucker will not break free for anything. I have soaked it in pb blaster, heated it up by running the car down the road till it was heated up enough.

All I know to do at this point is put a torch to it and go from there hoping it will work. If you guys have any suggestions, I'm open to them.


Try it with a cheater bar first.

If it doesn't work, get a propane torch.
 
I think I will let the mechanic have this one before it becomes more of a headache
 
I had an O2 that wouldn't budge. So I used an air hammer hitting it a few times. Came right out after that. If you have room try hitting it with a hammer, if you do not have an air hammer, down on the flat area.

Don
 
Agree with the above. Don't use a split socket or you'll round it. Been down that road. You'll really have to scrap the sensor by cutting the wire off, but a solid 6pt is the only way.
 
I used a combination of a ratcheting wrench & offset wrench on the O2 socket. These gave additional torque rather than a ratchet.

You can also put a hose clamp over the end of the socket to prevent it from spreading under load.
 
If you don't already have a torch I've had good luck with the Bernzomatic TS8000 with the yellow MAP/PRO fuel. I recommend the universal hose extension by the same company (well the parent "Worthington") to get into tight angles.

If you don't need the O2 sensor what other people said makes the most sense, just snip the wires off and use a deep socket with a good breaker bar (25in). But if you can't get it loose you'll be screwed since you snipped the wires off.
 
Get an o2 socket from AZ, they're a loaner tool item.

Hit it with penetrating oil a few times, and let it sit over night.

Use a breaker bar on the wrench, and you should be able to get it out.

I did disconnect the vacuum line running from the rear of the motor to the master cylinder, that extra wiggle room was enough to negotiate around the bits I needed to get around to get it out of there.

I had a heck of a time getting that sensor out of mine, and the above is what finally got it free. I didn't heat it because I wanted to avoid potentially burning off the PB blaster I soaked it in the night before.
 
Id do a heat and strike, heat and water quench, and heat and wax quench as options to get it out. After that I'd see if I could keep some permanent force on.

One car I put on ramps, then took my floor jack and finagled the ratchet to be constantly exerting force to loosen it. That actually worked well.
 
I know you said you tried PB, but if you can get your hands on some Kroil and let that sit overnight, you might be surprised. I've had luck with it where PB has failed. If you can't get a hold of any, you might try the 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone that many have said is just as good.
 
Propane Torch will probably work, but might be a good idea to fork out a little bit more money and get the MAPP gas torch, the flame will be a bit hotter then using propane.


if you buy the combo torch head you can use propane and mapp gas in it and just use the mapp gas on stuff that needs to be a bit hotter.
 
Cut the wire and buy a new "univesal" sensor without the plug. That way you can splice the nw sensor to the harness with the supplied splice kit. A benefit is you don't have to fight with the harness plug.
 
A wrench that isn't 360' is liable to spread. It is that simple. It is just a matter of applying enough torque to overcome the metallurgy.
grin2.gif


PS. some other good fixes here too.
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