Pennzoil PZ-37 C&P

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This is a Pennzoil PZ-37 off my sisters 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe. Oil was Pennzoil Bulk 5w-30 per sticker (spec is 5w-20).
Not sure exactly what mileage is on this OCI, but sticker said change on 1/13/17 or @ 138,958. She was at 146,468.
So she was 7510 miles over, not sure if it is a 3000 or 5000 OCI by the shop.
At least 10,500 miles, up to 12,500 miles total.
Luckily she does mostly highway driving, but still, lot of miles on dino oil and cheap Purolator filter.

So here are the pics.

Sticker (not sure what hand written numbers are. 10/5 is probably the date it was done, October 5,2016):


Odometer:


Can:


Date Code (August 25, 2016):


Louvers that look pretty good:


Open:


Nitrile ADV very stiff, but is pliable:


Inside the top, nothing noteworthy there:


Nice pleat spacing:


A little wide:


Hey, it is a Tearolator!


And the other side of it:


Yes, the mileage was well over what the filter is designed for, but a tear is the same place as most all other Purolators, wide pleats by the seam.
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I was suprised how the oil looked, it was a little dark, but not bad for the mileage and lack of filtration (you can see the color of it on the paper towel in some of the pics).

I put in some Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 and used a Fram Tough Guard.
I debated an Ultra, but I think the Tough Guard will work for her.
I will make sure she has it changed before 10,000 miles, I put 6 months/154,000 miles on her new window sticker.

I found several other things I need to do to her car soon.
Needs a plug change, new air filter, A/C is cycling on and off, may have a leaking CV joint, needs a coolant change, brake fluid changed, and am sure some other things.
I did a turkey baster change of her power steering fluid, need to do it a few more times.
 
Had that tear pattern in 4.5 k miles. You never do know when it tore, could have been the first week...
 
Oops, correction, it is a 2010 Santa Fe, not a 2007 (not that it really makes a difference).

Also, the numbers written on the old window sticker were written by my sister.

10/5 was the date it was changed.
136 is 136,000 miles, when the oil was changed.
143 is 143,000 miles, when she was planning on changing it.

The oil change place does 3000 mile, 3 month OCI, so she at least knew better than that. She knew her manual said she could do 7500 mile OCI, and was doing around it (just let it go this time by 3000 miles).
 
She's a great candidate for extended drains, M1 EP or Amsoil with an Amsoil or FU filter...
 
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
Had that tear pattern in 4.5 k miles. You never do know when it tore, could have been the first week...


That's a good reason to avoid Purolator. I doubt it waited until 7,500 miles to tear based on all of the reports of defective Purolator filters here. Really disappoints me since they are made in my home state and I like to support the local economy... but I'm not buying an oil filter that I can't trust to filter the oil.

Some cars with oil life monitors are pushing 10K oil change intervals depending on driving habits, and some manufacturers including Honda say to change the filter with every other change. I personally would step up to at least a mid-tier filter for longer filter change intervals, but at the same time this mileage isn't way too far from what could be expected and the filter should not be falling apart yet.
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
She's a great candidate for extended drains, M1 EP or Amsoil with an Amsoil or FU filter...

Yeah, I talked to her this evening and she says she usually plans on 7,000 miles, but tends to get it done at more like 8,000-9,000 miles, and this is just on quick lube bulk oil and cheap filters.
Without a UOA no idea how well it really is doing, but like I said, I was really surprised on how good the oil looked for 10,000 mile bulk dino oil with a torn filter.

I have no doubt it will be fine with the PP and TG to 10,000 miles pretty easily.
M1 EP and an Ultra would be a once a year change for her (~18,000 miles).
I am not planning on doing regular changes for her, so I will not worry about that.
If I do ever change it again, I will probably use some of the Quaker State Syn I have and grab another TG.

One thing I found out is that the fill cap says 5w-20, but 5w and 10w-30 are acceptable if temps are appropriate (10w-30 would be just fine, so no big deal that the quick lube was fine with the 5w-30). Only thing is my stash is all xw-20 (except for 6 qts of clearance 10w-30 Magnatec for my mom's Saturn).
 
Pictures start to look great, then the other side is shown, terrible oil filter. The adbv being stiff must mean it wasn't working either. It should be very springy so it comes back down and seals. Just IMO and Pennzoil should be sent the pictures. Not right so many people are driving around with tears in their oil filters. Used to be well a few tear, now it's clear probably many are. The shop would just recycle it and put another one, oblivious that the filter failed.
 
1. Thanks for the cut&post and the integrity to post the facts.

2. I believe the filter tore relatively early but there is no good way to know for certain.

3. The filter should have gone into bypass before tearing.

4. This leaves me with a different question: when an event happens like this, how much of the dirt stays in the engine when draining the oil? And what is the impact on the next oil/filter change?
 
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Pictures start to look great, then the other side is shown, terrible oil filter. ...
That may or may not have been done on pourpose.
whistle.gif

Quote:
... The adbv being stiff must mean it wasn't working either. It should be very springy so it comes back down and seals. Just IMO and Pennzoil should be sent the pictures. Not right so many people are driving around with tears in their oil filters. Used to be well a few tear, now it's clear probably many are. The shop would just recycle it and put another one, oblivious that the filter failed.
I think their response would be something along the line that the filter was used past it's recommended interval, and due to this, there is no way to know when the failure occured and bla, bla, bla....
Maybe I will send it to them. Send them a link to the thread as well.


Originally Posted By: WellOiled
1. Thanks for the cut&post and the integrity to post the facts.

2. I believe the filter tore relatively early but there is no good way to know for certain.

3. The filter should have gone into bypass before tearing.

4. This leaves me with a different question: when an event happens like this, how much of the dirt stays in the engine when draining the oil? And what is the impact on the next oil/filter change?

Thanks.
  1. I try to be objective when I post these.
  2. No idea when it tore, but there was no debris in the filter media, so who knows.
  3. I agree
  4. I kind of wonder the same thing. How much is held in suspension and comes out when draining the oil and how much just hangs out in the engine? Like I said, the oil was very clean for the mileage. I think if I did a UOA on the oil just drained, it would probably have high insolubles. The effect on the next oil change is the filter would probably load up faster, and if you had a dirty engine, possibly go into bypass sooner? Had I know the filter was torn, I may have grabbed an Ultra instead, it was only like $3 more, but I think the TG will be fine.
 
Blupupher - I agree with you. I tore 2 each Motorcraft FL820S filters that I am aware of. Both of them were clean on the inlet sir of the media just like yours. The media looked like it could have gone longer. Now someone will come along and say you can't tell by looking at the media to tell if it is loaded to capacity. But the pictures say the filter is torn and not performing it's intended function. I tend to steer clear of a manufacturer that sells product that does this. In my view the filter should go into bypass and not tear.

What is also noteworthy is the PZ-37 has a good track record.
 
We use these filters in our shop, although they are the white Performax versions with the same part numbers. I always feel bad having to put them on customers' cars knowing this is probably happening all the time. And a lot of people really push it on the miles too. Really sucks because I used to love Purolator, but they are worse now than FRAM ever was with the OCOD scare.

I should start grabbing some used filters and doing some C&P once I get a decent filter cutter. Might get a pipe cutter so I can do the big Powerstroke and Cummins filters as well. Curious to see if diesel filters tear since they put out way higher oil pressure than gas engines do. You'd think they'd have better media for this but who knows.
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher

I was suprised how the oil looked, it was a little dark, but not bad for the mileage and lack of filtration


**Most** of the oil is still going through the pleats.

Yes, a small percentage is going through the tear, unfortunately.

I would never use another purolator after all these torn media posts.
 
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