"New" 2008 Civic

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I am soon to inherit a GOOD car from my parents, as they are going to move to one car this summer and don't want the hassle of trading in two cars. In addition, I have started a new job where I am putting on about 400 miles a week during commuting. By switching from the F150 to the Civic, I will be saving $20-30 a week.

The car has received dealer oil changes as per the MM, so I don't anticipate any issues. With the current M1 rebates, I am looking to pick up a few jugs of M1 AFE 0w20 and a few M-110A filters. As they say they can go 20k and have been tested to double the manufacturer, I figure that I will run the filters for 2-4 oil changes, as 2 OCI is the norm for Honda. This will save me a lot of time under the car.

As a matter of practice, I always run a shot of Techron through the tank before an oil change to keep the fuel system up to snuff.

I plan to pay my parents to buy 2 sets while I will pick up the third. The first rebate has already gone to the F150.

These OCIs will be easy on the oil and allow for any cleaning to take place. I don't know where we will go from there, though. I anticipate keeping the car for quite a while. It has only around 75k on the clock and should be good to go unless some NY under carriage rot has already started.

Any advice on actions or what should be done differently? I have the next month or two to stock up and get to work.

Any tidbits of advice on the upcoming major services (100k, etc)?
 
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That works out great mpg-wise.

Originally Posted By: Coprolite
so I don't anticipate any issues.

On that note,
Since you plan on driving it a lot more than your parents, did you know the R18 engine in the Civic from 2006 to early 2009 have the potential for the engine block to crack on the firewall side and leak coolant? I got rid of my 2009 Civic in 2012 and replaced it with the current Impreza when I started smelling coolant on a consistant basic within a 2 week period. Honda extended the warranty on the block to 8 years and then increased it to 10 years so you may have around a year of coverage remaining if anything were to happen. The replacement blocks are supposed to be thicker in the area where the crack is happening. Just an FYI...
 
Thanks for the heads up. I will have to play the odds and hope it survives. If it dies, I will have to weigh the options then.
 
Keep an eye on the passenger side motor mount too, it's hydraulic and can collapse before 100K miles. There's a thread in the 8th gen Civic forum describing how to shim it with washers on the cheap. If you do replace it, avoid the aftermarket stuff. Had a 2011 Civic in the family until my brother totaled it last month with only 75K miles. I really liked the car.
 
I drive the F150 for the difference (20.00ish in dollars?). If you get smashed there's a chance you could walk away in the F150.

But that's just me.
 
The other option I have is an 03/04 Accord 5 speed with a magical auto on/off stereo. That would limit the driving to me, as my wife doesn't know and doesn't want to learn how to drive manual. Of course, having 100% use of the 2012 F30 335i would make her happy...

Would any of these issues provide advanced warning. A quick search seems to show the engine block crack is pretty instantaneous...
 
Originally Posted By: CKN
I drive the F150 for the difference (20.00ish in dollars?). If you get smashed there's a chance you could walk away in the F150.

But that's just me.


It is tempting... However, it is $700+ a month when the lack of payment is factored in. The price per mile will only increase as we come off these low oil prices in the future.

Perhaps the real kicker is the fact that the truck only clears the garage door and back wall by inches...
 
Originally Posted By: 2010Civic
4 OCI with one filter? How long are your OCI going to be?


It will be with the semi-syn M1 EP filter, but the OCI will be as per the Maintenance Minder. Any filter should handle 2 OCI, so how many should a Fancy M1 extended filter handle? If the MM really triggers around 6k miles, I will be doing changes 3-4 times a year...

From the Filter website:
1. Keeps oil cleaner, longer – 99%+ efficiency*
• Synthetic blend media keeps oil cleaner and holds more dirt†
2. Protects 2X as long
• Tested and proven at double auto manufacturers’ recommended oil change intervals
3. Extra strength built-in
• Strong, durable components for long-lasting performance
• Heavy-duty canister withstands 9X the normal system operating pressure‡
• Enhanced nitrile gasket helps prevent leaks
4. Designed for use with all engine oil types and brands
• Meets the requirements of the Mobil 1™ Annual Protection motor oil limited warranty
 
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Originally Posted By: Coprolite
Originally Posted By: 2010Civic
4 OCI with one filter? How long are your OCI going to be?


It will be with the semi-syn M1 EP filter, but the OCI will be as per the Maintenance Minder. Any filter should handle 2 OCI, so how many should a Fancy M1 extended filter handle? If the MM really triggers around 6k miles, I will be doing changes 3-4 times a year...

From the Filter website:
1. Keeps oil cleaner, longer – 99%+ efficiency*
• Synthetic blend media keeps oil cleaner and holds more dirt†
2. Protects 2X as long
• Tested and proven at double auto manufacturers’ recommended oil change intervals
3. Extra strength built-in
• Strong, durable components for long-lasting performance
• Heavy-duty canister withstands 9X the normal system operating pressure‡
• Enhanced nitrile gasket helps prevent leaks
4. Designed for use with all engine oil types and brands
• Meets the requirements of the Mobil 1™ Annual Protection motor oil limited warranty


I would be removing the valve cover to see how clean the inside of the motor is. If you are going to use one oil filter for a max of 24k miles, that might be stretching it. I would try the first OCI on the filter to 15k miles max and cut it open and see what's inside.
 
Any 0w20 or 5w20 will be fine for the OCI suggested by the minder, but my chose would be to use the cheapest 0w20 synthetic on sale. M1 AFE is a good choice, and Napa does put their house brand synthetic on sale a few times a year for $3-4/qt. The M1 filter is good, and so is Wix/Napa Gold, but I would only use a filter for one OCI.

The other services are also go by the MM, except for brake fluid which is supposed to be replaced every 3 years regardless of mileage, but you can probably get away with just replacing it whenever you replace the pads and rotors. Castrol makes good brake fluid, if you can find it (Castrol LMA is supposed to absorb moisture more slowly). Otherwise, any DOT 3 or 4 will do.

If you can get it, Maxlife ATF is very good. Otherwise, any synthetic LV ATF on sale will work fine in your Civic.

For the coolant, Pentofrost A3 is the same as the OEM Honda coolant from the dealer, but at a better price (AAP with promo codes). The only full strength concentrate coolant of this type is Recochem blue, available at Pep Boys for about $20/gal (sometimes on sale for much less). And if you don't already have one, get the Lisle funnel.

Use the OEM Denso or NGK spark plugs (you can get them at your favorite parts store or Rock Auto or Amazon). NGK #5266, or Denso #3432

You might need to replace the valve cover gasket. Get the Beck/Arnley set, which is the OE gasket reboxed, and also includes the spark plug tube seals.
 
Slacktide BITOG, thanks for the response. It was pretty much exactly what I was looking for. I will save most of the final decisions until I get my hands on it. The initial triage will push me in certain directions on replacement, flushes and other intervals. My parents have usually gone with the recommended maintenance and their dealer is good about not selling frivolous services. I might even be tempted to have them give it some love before I drive it 1600 miles home.

I picked M1 due to Walmart availability at a consistently good price combined with the current rebates in place. I tend to prefer PureOnes but haven't used them since they went blue...I figured the rebate would be a chance to try a filter that I wouldn't usually go for due to price. Minimum usage on the filter will be as per MM at two OCI unless I see something concerning when I check the valvetrain.

I appreciate you feedback on the other parts and will start to accumulate the supplies.

I am tempted to go E3 for plugs. Any reason to stick to the Denso?.
 
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At 21K or so a year, this Civic should have another six or more years of life left in it.
More if various niggles don't start happening on a regular basis.
With the kind of driving you propose to do, 7K+ OCIs should be no issue at all.
Whether you change the filter each time or not is up to you. I would and I wouldn't run more than two OCIs on any oil filter.
Oil?
M1 AFE with the current MIR is a no brainer and you can get another three bucks on that MIR of you also buy an M1 filter, which would not be a bad choice.
There is also an MIR on PP through the end of this year and Fram often has a summer MIR on their filters, so PP + Ultra might also be an economically viable choice.
WRT the cylinder block problem, after seven years and 75K, if this engine were going to have it, it probably already would.
 
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
I am tempted to go E3 for plugs. Any reason to stick to the Denso?.


E3 plugs are a gimmick and inferior to the OE iridium NGK and Denso (either brand is good). The OE spark plugs are good for at least 100k. In fact, the MM will probably tell you to replace them in your first service after 100k (which will also be when it's time to replace the coolant).

If you're going to use a filter for two OCI's, the M1 is good, but you should also consider Fram Ultra and Wix XP/Napa Platinum.

And for the cabin air filters, get one that has charcoal/carbon in it, as this helps with keeping odors out of the cabin.

Krown is good for keeping the rust off.
 
Originally Posted By: 6starprez
That works out great mpg-wise.

Originally Posted By: Coprolite
so I don't anticipate any issues.

On that note,
Since you plan on driving it a lot more than your parents, did you know the R18 engine in the Civic from 2006 to early 2009 have the potential for the engine block to crack on the firewall side and leak coolant? I got rid of my 2009 Civic in 2012 and replaced it with the current Impreza when I started smelling coolant on a consistant basic within a 2 week period. Honda extended the warranty on the block to 8 years and then increased it to 10 years so you may have around a year of coverage remaining if anything were to happen. The replacement blocks are supposed to be thicker in the area where the crack is happening. Just an FYI...



+1. This is the first thing I thought of when I saw 2008 Civic.
 
4 OCIs on a filter over 20k miles seems excessive...penny-wise pound foolish....splurge and buy a filter and use a new one ever-other OCI.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
I am tempted to go E3 for plugs. Any reason to stick to the Denso?.


E3 plugs are a gimmick and inferior to the OE iridium NGK and Denso (either brand is good). The OE spark plugs are good for at least 100k. In fact, the MM will probably tell you to replace them in your first service after 100k (which will also be when it's time to replace the coolant).

If you're going to use a filter for two OCI's, the M1 is good, but you should also consider Fram Ultra and Wix XP/Napa Platinum.

And for the cabin air filters, get one that has charcoal/carbon in it, as this helps with keeping odors out of the cabin.

Krown is good for keeping the rust off.


Agreed on the E3 plugs. Also, every single engine I have seen with a plug blowing out of the cylinder or only half the plug blown out has been the OE Denso, and why I won't use Denso plugs in my own Honda. Highly recommend getting the OE NGK's. On the NGK site, they list two different plugs, "platinum" and "iridium". You actually want the one listed as "platinum", as it is an iridium plug with a platinum ground electrode. Will last much longer than the iridium with a copper ground.

Plugs and valve adjustment are not necessarily due till 100k miles though.
 
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