Tire cracks

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Went to rotate on my all seasons, and just happened to notice some cracking in the tread area on at least 3 tires.

Worst tire:



Two other tires.



Date code of 2513, 41,000 miles, always stored outside (but how much UV does NH have?). I measure 5/32's on two and 6/32's on two, so they still have some life left.

I'm guessing the two latter tires aren't that bad, but I'm a bit hesitant on the first. Then again, I don't tow nor drive hard, so...
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Edit: forgot to say, Michelin LTX MS2's. Not sure it matters, but there you, last of the details. Used on my Tundra, tires bought new end of 2013 or so.
 
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Disappointing. I think they are safe to drive since its the middle of the tread area but you could possibly pursue a goodwill/prorated replacement early.

DT will prorate tires between 2/32 and 4/32 usually.
 
Well, I don't drive the truck much at the moment, so I could leave off for another weekend. I'll have to check the remaining tire, see if I can find all cracks. Might be nice to get a pro-rated replacement on all four tires, and get something else.

Should I go to the shop that I bought from? I'm guessing that would be best, but it might be easier (travel wise) at a different dealer.
 
Thanks for posting pictures. Disappointing for sure. I saw the thread title and thought it was going to be cracks in the sidewall of the tire. I know Michelin in the past has blamed tire dressing containing petroleum distillates for causing cracking on their tires, but, with this being in the tread, it looks a issue with Michelin's rubber compound.

Our dad just put on some Michelin tires on his 2006 Tundra in February. He was going to go with another brand, but, then went with Michelin because of their reputation. I will keep an eye out on his tires. Hopefully, he won't have issues.
 
Cracks on Michelin tires seem to be typical. I'm sure there are people driving on Michelins with 70k miles on them and cracks up the wazoo but they still get home every night.

Just remember that the tread on a tire isn't necessarily related to the tires ability to hold air. The tread is typically molded on top of the actual carcass that gives the tire it's shape. I only say this because the bulk of the internet is terrible at tire advice.

The date code is well within the RMA 5 year lifespan for ideal performance.

I would say keep driving on them but visually check for worsening of the cracks.
 
Found similar cracking in the fourth tire. Only one has the big long crack, the rest are shorter.

I know people on here have great luck with these tires, I don't want to dismiss Michelin altogether. Maybe those who have excellent life run into the ground quicker and see less age issues. Dunno. But it makes me think I didn't get my money's worth out of them.

I've never used tire dressing on these tires.
 
I think its probably fine but i would still keep an eye out for a good tire deal to replace them. If the shop that sold them to you will pro rate you into something else i would go for it.
 
Tires were stored under my deck from Nov-ish until now. Some sunlight, I guess. Storage issue, I guess?
 
I've asked a few Engineers from tire companies about this type of cracking in the past, on several brands of tires. They have said that the most common cause is lack-of or very little use.
 
Those tires could last until the tread is completely worn away, or one of them could blow anytime. I would not feel safe going 60 MPH with them, and if they were mine I would seek some kind of pro-rating from whom ever they were bought from or from Michelin. If no pro-rating came through I would still scrap them.
 
Call Michelin with the and get them the DOT for each tire.

My LTX M/S dated 0512 were recalled, but since I wasn't the original owner I never knew about it. My 225/75/16 E load range tires were more cracked from sunlight and ozone than yours. A month ago I had a belt separation in one tire on the inner dually that I limped home without it blowing out.

End of the story is I walked out of my dealer with 6 new tires, $1200 worth, for no charge after 33,000 miles of use. Michelin will direct you to a local dealer for an adjustment and worst case is they tell you it's fine, 2nd best is you get a prorated. Maybe you get new tires like me.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Those tires could last until the tread is completely worn away, or one of them could blow anytime.


But that could be said about ANY tire. Cracks in the tread are not uncommon and as I mentioned in my other reply, the tread typically is not part of the structural carcass of a tire. Same goes for the sidewall but the minute someone on the internet asks the dreaded "is it safe" question, everyone jumps and says the tire will catastrophically blow and cause mass death.

I'm not pushing for how anyone lives their life, but I would put good money on people being almost irrationally over safe when it comes to tires, to the point that we are just generating waste instead of assessing the actual facts of the situation.
 
UV is everywhere the sun shines and also where the sun doesn't shine if it could shine there. Like, on a full overcast day. Airborne pollutants also can cause cracks, there are some chemical reactions that attack tire compounds.

The tread is pretty robust area, not nearly as serious as sidewall cracks.

You didn't say, but are these true truck tires or passenger car tires (Pxxx-18 or LTxxx-18 for example). A truck tire will have more plies to support the tread, so even less of an issue.

I'd run 'em. If you're skittish, carry a can of tire goop.
 
My new 1976 Plymouth Volare came with one ply rated two tires because there was a real rubber and tire shortage back then. And while driving that car with the cheap tires that it came with, I had a front passengers side tire blow out, as in one minute fine and then in a matter of a second totally flat. I did not know to NOT HIT THE BRAKE. I hit the brake and immediately the car went off the road to the right even though I turned the wheel to the left. Thank heaven there was a corn field on the side of the road. I ended up plowing down corn with the car, no damage to the car. I had a spare tire on a full size rim that I had bought (due to the rubber and tire shortage back then the car came from the factory without a spare). Very soon after that I got rid of all four of those cheap one ply rated two tires that the car came with and replaced them with much thicker tires.
 
P255 70 R18 tires.

If these tires can't take NH UV then I can easily see why they don't work down south. Will have to be my last set of Michelins then.

I'll call a shop tomorrow and see if I can schedule a time to go in and have them looked at.
 
Definitely check if Michelin will give you a warranty replace on them, but I would like to reiterate a past point that those cracks may very well be superficial. If UV was to blame, why would the UV only attack the channels between the tread? Wouldn't the sidewalls and the tread blocks also look terrible?

If you do end up swapping them out, ask the tire shop if you can look at the tire with the worst cracks once it is off the rim. Take one of your house keys and see if you can push it through one of the exterior cracks and into the inner lining of the tire...

Also - what PSI did you run the tires at? Door jamb PSI or sidewall max PSI?
 
32 to 35psi, although a recently bought Slime pencil gauge seems to disagree with the gauge on my compressor, so it's possible as high as 42psi. [Have not figured out what gauge to trust yet.]
 
Originally Posted By: supton
32 to 35psi, although a recently bought Slime pencil gauge seems to disagree with the gauge on my compressor, so it's possible as high as 42psi. [Have not figured out what gauge to trust yet.]


The gauge on my tire pump/compressor will get you "close" to the tire pressure. Unless you purchase an expensive bike tire slim gauge I find that the digital tire gauges from Home Depot or Lowe's for around $10 work well.

Whimsey
 
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