I was wondering your thoughts and opinions on using 0W-20 in my 2016 Focus instead of 5W-20. I live in Nebraska so it gets cold here but in January we usually do a family trip to northern Minnesota where it can get down to -35. I use 0W20 in my Mitsubishis with no problem but they are not DI engines.
Thoughts on using 0w-20 instead of 5w-20?
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It is perfectly ok to use 0w20 in your Focus
As others have said, this should be fine in your Focus. I would point out though that Ford specifies 5w-20 meeting WSS-M2C945A. 0w-20s would be the wrong viscosity and would meet WSS-M2C947A instead.
While pretty unlikely, it would be possible for a dealer to be difficult on a warranty claim as the specified oil wasn't used. I have a Ford and stuck with 5w-20 through the warranty period for this reason. With not much to gain, why take the chance?
Others will chime in that Ford would have to "prove" the wrong oil caused whatever warranty problem they refused to warrant. This may be so, but do you want the delay and hassle this could involve?
While pretty unlikely, it would be possible for a dealer to be difficult on a warranty claim as the specified oil wasn't used. I have a Ford and stuck with 5w-20 through the warranty period for this reason. With not much to gain, why take the chance?
Others will chime in that Ford would have to "prove" the wrong oil caused whatever warranty problem they refused to warrant. This may be so, but do you want the delay and hassle this could involve?
Originally Posted By: Mathew_Boss
I was wondering your thoughts and opinions on using 0W-20 in my 2016 Focus instead of 5W-20. I live in Nebraska so it gets cold here but in January we usually do a family trip to northern Minnesota where it can get down to -35. I use 0W20 in my Mitsubishis with no problem but they are not DI engines.
the oil cap on my Malibu says 5w20 but i can use 0w20 as a service fill and oil top off it says in the manual. I've used 0w20 since its first oil chage.
I was wondering your thoughts and opinions on using 0W-20 in my 2016 Focus instead of 5W-20. I live in Nebraska so it gets cold here but in January we usually do a family trip to northern Minnesota where it can get down to -35. I use 0W20 in my Mitsubishis with no problem but they are not DI engines.
the oil cap on my Malibu says 5w20 but i can use 0w20 as a service fill and oil top off it says in the manual. I've used 0w20 since its first oil chage.
I just used 0W-20 in my bro's 2007 Odyssey ('07) and the cap says "5W-20". I had to explain it to him and I know I did a bad job.
Hey, Heaven only knows what oil the "Quicky Lubey" place used but they did use an undersized Pronto filter.
I gave bro Mobil1 0W-20 and a Fram Ultra Syn. Still the nicest vehicle I've driven in.
Who loves ya baby?
Hey, Heaven only knows what oil the "Quicky Lubey" place used but they did use an undersized Pronto filter.
I gave bro Mobil1 0W-20 and a Fram Ultra Syn. Still the nicest vehicle I've driven in.
Who loves ya baby?
While I generally run a synthetic 5w20 in my F150, if an oil change lies in late fall or early winter I will substitute 0w20. This has happened a few times and she still runs quiet and strong
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Originally Posted By: Danh
As others have said, this should be fine in your Focus. I would point out though that Ford specifies 5w-20 meeting WSS-M2C945A. 0w-20s would be the wrong viscosity and would meet WSS-M2C947A instead.
I have several jugs of M1 AFE 0W-20 that has the 945A specification on it so it was not so long ago (namely before Ford came out with a 0W-20 specification) that using 0W-20 was not an issue in Ford engines specifying 5W-20.
As others have said, this should be fine in your Focus. I would point out though that Ford specifies 5w-20 meeting WSS-M2C945A. 0w-20s would be the wrong viscosity and would meet WSS-M2C947A instead.
I have several jugs of M1 AFE 0W-20 that has the 945A specification on it so it was not so long ago (namely before Ford came out with a 0W-20 specification) that using 0W-20 was not an issue in Ford engines specifying 5W-20.
I've used 0w20 for over 5 years now in my 03' Ford Focus (2.3)...wih no ill effects.
For the first several years it was Mobil 1 AFE, but my engine seemed nosier than it should have been....so next OC, I switched to QSUD 0w20....and that seemed to quiet the engine down significantly
My last OC in March.... I tried Pennzoil UP 0w20, and I'm very satisfied with the way the engine sounds.
For the first several years it was Mobil 1 AFE, but my engine seemed nosier than it should have been....so next OC, I switched to QSUD 0w20....and that seemed to quiet the engine down significantly
My last OC in March.... I tried Pennzoil UP 0w20, and I'm very satisfied with the way the engine sounds.
It still bothers me that within the Mobil 1 family, you give up nearly 20% Phos and Zinc to get that 0W rating vs 5W. Midwest vehicles have been getting through winter just fine for years on 5W oil. Knowing this, I really have to question deviating from a specified 5W-20.
Now, if XOM would pull the curtain back a bit and say a different (better) basestock makes up for the reduction in anti-wear additives, I would accept it.
Now, if XOM would pull the curtain back a bit and say a different (better) basestock makes up for the reduction in anti-wear additives, I would accept it.
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I use 0w20 in my 2008 Pilot. Zero issues.
The thinner the oil at startup the better. Period.
Ah .... No. Some cams with inverted bucket followers like a bit of traction to lube well and many servere grpIII just fly of the cam and bounce off the cyl wall like BB's. There is always a compromise. I would agree you don't want a 20,000+ cP honey at startup every day - That's what garage and pan and sump and block heaters are for.
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Some cams with inverted bucket followers like a bit of traction to lube well and many servere grpIII just fly of the cam and bounce off the cyl wall like BB's.
I am having trouble understanding the mechanism for Grp III to fly off the cam and bounce of the walls. Can you expand this a little?
Some cams with inverted bucket followers like a bit of traction to lube well and many servere grpIII just fly of the cam and bounce off the cyl wall like BB's.
I am having trouble understanding the mechanism for Grp III to fly off the cam and bounce of the walls. Can you expand this a little?
I have used M1 0-20AFE for many years in my Ford Duratech engines with great success at 10K OCIs. Recent valve cover replacement on both engines reveled very clean engines. Also there is no sign of engine wear, no oil loss in my normal 10K OCI, no unusual engine or timing chain noise, and my MPG is still that of when the engines were new. I have pics of the valve train, so let me know and I would be glad to PM them to you.
One grade would work as well as the other under most conditions.
For -35F ambient temperatures, a 0W might make the difference between a slow crank and start and no crank at all with a 5W. Most modern cars are not burdened with too much battery, after all.
I can see no harm in using a 0W-20 and if any warranty concerns arise, which they won't, just tell them it's a 5W-20 if they ask and you don't remember the brand.
They'll never be able to prove otherwise and the difference in grade wouldn't cause any failure anyway.
For -35F ambient temperatures, a 0W might make the difference between a slow crank and start and no crank at all with a 5W. Most modern cars are not burdened with too much battery, after all.
I can see no harm in using a 0W-20 and if any warranty concerns arise, which they won't, just tell them it's a 5W-20 if they ask and you don't remember the brand.
They'll never be able to prove otherwise and the difference in grade wouldn't cause any failure anyway.
Originally Posted By: tig1
I have used M1 0-20AFE for many years in my Ford Duratech engines with great success at 10K OCIs. Recent valve cover replacement on both engines reveled very clean engines. Also there is no sign of engine wear, no oil loss in my normal 10K OCI, no unusual engine or timing chain noise, and my MPG is still that of when the engines were new. I have pics of the valve train, so let me know and I would be glad to PM them to you.
Please pm them!
I have used M1 0-20AFE for many years in my Ford Duratech engines with great success at 10K OCIs. Recent valve cover replacement on both engines reveled very clean engines. Also there is no sign of engine wear, no oil loss in my normal 10K OCI, no unusual engine or timing chain noise, and my MPG is still that of when the engines were new. I have pics of the valve train, so let me know and I would be glad to PM them to you.
Please pm them!
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