Fleetguard WF2107 coolant filter, 6300 miles C&P

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Very happy with the results from this. There was plenty of particulate trapped in the filter after just 6300 miles. The last filter was prestine so maybe RMI does do something!
More likely it was just because the last filter only had 1500 miles to collect stuff.

Nice ridge of silt on what was probably the lower edge of the filter

Every pleat had gunk in it like this.

And the can was full of silt too.
 
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What was this on . Total mile of the vehicle. Highway or dirt road . I ask because today radiator liquid is supposed to have fixed various corruption of the antigel. Liner pitting corrosion etc was the result in the past . Perfectly good engine but radiator liquid was [censored] . Now a day that big rig radiator liquid is free of everything . Texaco was the brand back then that started to show up in truck stop with that stuff (thank god)store still can sell the old stuff tho . Also people tend to over stay the radiator liquid duration . Or is this a fuel filter? Trying to understand?
 
This is on the Crown Vic? How is it installed? Is the filter really >$100?

I guess I missed the backstory, sorry.
 
Looks like you had some pretty old Premium Gold in there. That filter probably has only 10-15% of the silicate & other crud that I got out of my F-450 7.3 on the first one I ever ran, that one looked like a sandbox in the bottom.
 
Bullwinkle? So this would be normal for a pickup like you have? Just asking since I ain't at all in the light duty truck . I don't know how things are done.was expecting filter life of 80 000 mile
 
Yes, this is my Crown Vic with 200k. This didnt cost me $100 to impliment. $20 for the head. Each filter is $5-10 and another 30 in brass fittings and $10 for the hose to route it. But, the fittings and the head will last and last; No reason it can't be reused on another car, once acquired.
Heres a picture of how it is installed.
full-13357-2249-imag1465.jpg

It had a Wix in this photo. My currently running the Fleetguard cross.
This car was originally filled with regular green from the factory, and other than top up I believe it was original at 157k when I bought the car. Ive done so many coolant changes I can't even remember, but I always get a ton of silt and crud. Im so over trying to flush it out so I installed a filter. Im happy with the results. I drive, and it cleans. Only make a very small mess when I change the filter and lose just a quart of coolant.
Heres a link to a post I made right after I got the car, showing the rasty coolant that was in it.
 
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Thread resurrection. I just installed a setup just like this on my 99 grand marquis. I had the same issue as you. Original green coolant left in way too long, system nasty. I flushed the system 3 times in total, last time replacing all of the hoses since they were 20 years old and lined with scale/rust. I flushed the block very good since all hoses were off and even put a new reservoir on. I came across the picture and started laughing, as I installed the filter in exactly the same place you did. However instead of Teeing into both like you did I just eliminated the heater core to water pump return tube hose and ran a piece of hose from the outlet of the core to the filter, and filter outlet to the water pump tube. I'm using a B5134 baldwin and it has the restrictor. Before I did this work I had 160-170 degree vent temps and now only get 130-140. at best I flushed the core again today and it came out clear and made sure I had no bubbles in the air system. Suppose the restrictor in the filter is causing the coolant to dwell in the heater core too long, causing it to cool off more than usual? I know normally one would install the filter BEFORE the heater core instead of after but I didn't want to mess with the plastic heater nipple off the intake more than once. So I installed it after to avoid future chances to break that thing off.
 
Originally Posted by yvon_la
Bullwinkle? So this would be normal for a pickup like you have? Just asking since I ain't at all in the light duty truck . I don't know how things are done.was expecting filter life of 80 000 mile

Whoa, never saw this one-the F-450 (7.3 diesel IDI) had really old green silicate antifreeze in it, with unknown (or possibly no) anti-cavitation additive in it, ao the silicate all fell out of suspension, mainly into the bottom tank of the radiator. The coolant filter eventually caught all the silicate and only catches a little used up DCA additive now. I installed mine BETWEEN the 2 heater hoses with a shutoff on the hose going to the heater core which gets shut off in hot weather, making all the AF that normally would go through the core go through the filter instead. The restrictor in the filter keeps enough hot coolant going through the heater core to keep decent heat/defrosting. I change my coolant filter roughly every 18 months or so, with either a blank one or one containing a minimal amount of DCA-2, depending on what the test strips indicate.
 
Thread resurrection. I just installed a setup just like this on my 99 grand marquis. I had the same issue as you. Original green coolant left in way too long, system nasty. I flushed the system 3 times in total, last time replacing all of the hoses since they were 20 years old and lined with scale/rust. I flushed the block very good since all hoses were off and even put a new reservoir on. I came across the picture and started laughing, as I installed the filter in exactly the same place you did. However instead of Teeing into both like you did I just eliminated the heater core to water pump return tube hose and ran a piece of hose from the outlet of the core to the filter, and filter outlet to the water pump tube. I'm using a B5134 baldwin and it has the restrictor. Before I did this work I had 160-170 degree vent temps and now only get 130-140. at best I flushed the core again today and it came out clear and made sure I had no bubbles in the air system. Suppose the restrictor in the filter is causing the coolant to dwell in the heater core too long, causing it to cool off more than usual? I know normally one would install the filter BEFORE the heater core instead of after but I didn't want to mess with the plastic heater nipple off the intake more than once. So I installed it after to avoid future chances to break that thing off.
You are running this in parallel with heater core? If so, it is going to bypass some coolant, the heater core wont get as warm. You could test this by putting a shutoff valve inline with the filter.
I would think a better way is in series, and use a full flow coolant filter in the return line, if you can get one.
 
You are running this in parallel with heater core? If so, it is going to bypass some coolant, the heater core wont get as warm. You could test this by putting a shutoff valve inline with the filter.
I would think a better way is in series, and use a full flo
coolant filter in the return line, if you can get one.I

I have it set up so that the coolant that exits the heater core goes into the coolant filter, and the coolant coming out of the filter hooks to the return pipe that the stock hose would normally connect the heater core to. Full flow through the filter. Heat at the vent is 150-160 degrees, hottest heat I've ever had in a car I always have to turn it down. When the heat isn't as hot it's time to change the filter.
 
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