Rocker panel damage

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ram_man

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So I was driving today and this guy veered in my lane as we were going through the intersection. So I swerved to miss him and ended up catching the corner of the curb on the rocker panel . Tore it up pretty good. I called the police as he ran off and described the vehicle but I didn't get a plate so yea that'll probably amount to nothing.
Could it be popped out and re worked and painted? Or maybe half way pop it out get it to where it's ok and install a body kit ? How would you handle this if it was yours?


x5b7mo.jpg
 
If you don't get that fixed correctly it will rot badly as that kind of damage rusts and rots.

Body kit is a good solution if you don't keeping it long.
 
Unless you go to a ghetto body shop, that is one an expensive repair, period. Even if you got a plate number, it'd be your word against his. I guarantee you the police wouldn't do squat to him.
 
if not for that split along the bottom, i'd work it to where i could cosmetically live with it, and cover/seal it with bedliner.

I did just this on my neon when i stupidly tried to jack it on the rocker, instead of the pinch weld, and it "jumped" off the jack, making a big concave dent, with breaks in the paint. I sanded it back, got the loose stuff off, and hit it with a can of spray on bedliner.
 
It needs a rocker. You might have damage to the inner rocker as well.

I have to point out that it's irresponsible for amateurs to attempt structural auto repairs (or even to comment on such damage, for that matter). You wouldn't try to save money by performing surgery at home, you wouldn't design your own car seat for your kid, you wouldn't personally wire your house to the electrical grid, et cetera
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Originally Posted By: Ethan1
It needs a rocker. You might have damage to the inner rocker as well.

I have to point out that it's irresponsible for amateurs to attempt structural auto repairs (or even to comment on such damage, for that matter). You wouldn't try to save money by performing surgery at home, you wouldn't design your own car seat for your kid, you wouldn't personally wire your house to the electrical grid, et cetera
27.gif



I fear you may be under-estimating some folks desire to save money, Ethan. As your location indicates, this is "Murica"
 
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
It needs a rocker. You might have damage to the inner rocker as well.

I have to point out that it's irresponsible for amateurs to attempt structural auto repairs (or even to comment on such damage, for that matter). You wouldn't try to save money by performing surgery at home, you wouldn't design your own car seat for your kid, you wouldn't personally wire your house to the electrical grid, et cetera
27.gif



Sorry, but I think you exaggerate the difficulty and criticality of many structural auto repairs. It ain't always rocket science and it ain't always brain surgery.

I've only done a couple of significant structural repairs to cars. One of them was a "bodge" to an outrigger box section on a Lada, the other was a complete reconstruction of a Marina mid-chassis underside.

For the latter I re-designed it to use continuous flange welds because my gas welding wasn't very good and flange welds pretty much weld themselves.

MOT (anal annual British safety check) tester didn't like the look of it much and spent quite a long time hitting it with a big hammer. I knew he wasn't allowed to do that but I was confident it was a lot stronger than a standard "professional" tack-welded repair, so I let him get on with it.

He got tired eventually.
 
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
Ethan1 said:
It needs a rocker. You might have damage to the inner rocker as well.

For the latter I re-designed it to use continuous flange welds because my gas welding wasn't very good and flange welds pretty much weld themselves.

MOT (anal annual British safety check) tester didn't like the look of it much and spent quite a long time hitting it with a big hammer. I knew he wasn't allowed to do that but I was confident it was a lot stronger than a standard "professional" tack-welded repair, so I let him get on with it.

He got tired eventually.


hahahahaha! gave up and had tea
Click to expand...
 
Having said that, I did have an unpleasant moment when I belatedly realised the plastic fuel pipe ran through the box section I was welding. A pro probably wouldn't make that mistake, or at least not more than once.
 
The metal isn't torn it's just folded up . It looks torn in the picture but it's not. Hopefully it can pushed out and re worked idk.
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
How would you handle this if it was yours?


Doubt you really want to know, but since you ask, I'd protect it from rust.

Other than that, I'd probably leave it alone, because I generally don't do cosmetic repairs.

But then that's why it probably wouldn't be mine, because I generally don't have cars on which doing cosmetic repairs would make any sense.
 
That can be pulled out with a hydraulic puller once the car is chained down to the frame machine or floor pots, your not doing that with a stud welder/puller.
If the floor or rear of the rocker isn't creased I doubt it did anything structural. If done properly there will be no corrosion and paint issues.
Once its pulled out it will need refinishing with OE warranty certified filler (rust resistance) epoxy primer and paint, then rustproofed from inside once its done to prevent rust.

There is a difference in fillers, most have a high talc content that absorbs moisture and bubbles under the paint. Something like this one replaces a portion of the talc content with resins. I only mention this because its not as simple as pulling it out, slapping some Bondo on and painting it, you could but its not a quality rust resistant repair and this is a very rust prone area on any car.

https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-112-Premium-Lightweight-Filler/dp/B000P6URMA
 
That is typically a structural member in a unibody vehicle. "Folded up" is like a dent in a pop can. Stand on one with no dent, then try it with one with a dent you put in with your thumb. You will figure it out pretty quick.

Don't know if it applies in your area, but it could mean a failed safety. It needs to be properly repaired.

I agree with the poster who said pay the deductible and get it professionally repaired.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
That can be pulled out with a hydraulic puller once the car is chained down to the frame machine or floor pots, your not doing that with a stud welder/puller.
If the floor or rear of the rocker isn't creased I doubt it did anything structural. If done properly there will be no corrosion and paint issues.
Once its pulled out it will need refinishing with OE warranty certified filler (rust resistance) epoxy primer and paint, then rustproofed from inside once its done to prevent rust.

There is a difference in fillers, most have a high talc content that absorbs moisture and bubbles under the paint. Something like this one replaces a portion of the talc content with resins. I only mention this because its not as simple as pulling it out, slapping some Bondo on and painting it, you could but its not a quality rust resistant repair and this is a very rust prone area on any car.

https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-112-Premium-Lightweight-Filler/dp/B000P6URMA



Realistically what do you think it would take to get it fixed? How many hours? My body guy told me to not call my insurance till after he looks at it . I have a 1,000 dollar deductible .
 
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