Oil catch can installed on the IS

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Put together this little guy for the IS. A few thousand miles (3 I think) after getting my recall work, the valves already looked like they were accumulating, unless they did a [censored] job cleaning the valves in the first place. The HF filter needed the drain valve replaced as it was spring loaded to stay open when not pressurized.


There is plenty of tubing to hopefully cool and condense any fumes.



The final resting place is the splash guard. Cutting away sound proofing was the the hardest part of the whole experience, so a really easy mod to do.



Finished with the covers back on.


Everything is 100% reversible except for the 3 holes in the splash guard to mount and drain the unit. Eventually I will get a T installed into the return line so that I can blast the intake with hot water, so I have a simple plug and play solution.
 
On my hyundai sonata '11 se 2.0t I use michimoto on both sides. Pcv needs drained every 1k and the intake every 3k.
 
Got it installed yesterday. I don't expect anything till a few thousand miles. I have no oil consumption to speak of in 7.5k so far.
 
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
Yeh we need pics of catch can goop, that and valve cover pics are the pr0n of BITOG.


You bet, as soon as I get some. I'll put my fingers in it and everything.
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Looks great! Is that silicone hose, or just some blue rubber?


This is a silicone hight temp medical grade stuff . Had a a couple dozen feet laying around.
 
How stout is that hose? If it is easy to press together, the vacuum generated by the engine will collapse the hose.
 
The amount of vacuum generated will be less than or equal to pre throttle body, and the PCV side is 1/8 inch (?) hole, not a whole lot to worry about.
 
I ran into that on my FX45. OE PCV plumbing was mostly metal with either 3/8th or 1/2 inch connectors. I put on the mishimoto catch can with some properly sized ''fuel or vacuum' hose from Amazon, if I quickly revved the engine, when I let off, the main hose would collapse on itself, and not return until the engine was turned off. I think I ended up using some ATF cooler hose to fix it. The OE system has 2 PCV valves (V8) - now each of them go into a port on the can with a single return to the intake. The fresh air side is OE.

The good news is that now, many tens of thousands of miles later, the cold morning startup smoke that is common to these engines is gone, and the intake isn't a mess of goo. I need to empty the can mid OCI typically.
 
The reason I mention the possible collapse of hose used is because it almost happened to me on the catch can hoses I used on my 14 GT mustang. I used some generic 5/8 thin walled hose and it would halfway collapse. I used some thicker 5/8 hose and it quit doing that. Some engines generate some pretty strong vacuum through the PCV system.

Wayne
 
Update:
After a 5500mi run on Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 with [then] published NOACK value of 4.7% I have drained about 30-40ml of total removed liquid, being 5 So, I soaked the valves (2 did not get a good soak, they were open) for 2 or 3 hours with CRC DI/TGDI whatever spray, claims to have a good load of PEA (and it was eating away at the buildup nicely as the time went by). Drained the can, and the intake, rinsed with some carb cleaner, drained some more. Currently the oil in there has a volatility [likely to be] 3x as much, so I will see what it looks like at the next oil change. Will post here again for an update.
 
Nice. I installed a Moroso can on my Suburban after getting lots of oil in my intake even after changing to the updated valve cover.
Works like a charm. Makes me wish I did it when the truck was new.
 
Well, it works. About 3k miles. Napa 10w30 with a quart of Napa syn 0w20.

20181014_124609.jpg
 
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