Penetrating Oils

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Rather than hijacking the other penetrating oil thread, I'll just start fresh.

I've always used PB Blaster and it visually doesn't look oily a day or so after application. At that rate, I am not sure if it's actively penetrating anymore.

I've always had decent luck with PB Blaster, but is there anything out there that's better? I also wonder if mixing ATF at a ~25% ratio would help allow the penetrating oil to stay on the parts longer.
 
Ive been using Kimball Midwest's penetrating oil for 5 or 6 years with no issues, everyone talks about Kroil, but Im not really sure if theres too much of a difference between all of the major name brands out there. I saw a video that heated the [censored] out of a stuck bolt and used candle wax to loosen it by just melting it down the threads!
 
Liquid wrench is pretty good.
Rost off from wurth is also good.
Pentrazen from i cant remember who is one i use most at work along with a product called penefree.

At home i have pentrazen, blaster and liquid wrench.
 
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I'll give the liquid wrench a try since I'd like it prior to the weekend..

Had to Google Ed's Red.. It's the ATF and acetone mixture. I'll give that a try too I guess.
 
Kroil is what tva uses in nuke plants. Its all I use too...
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Originally Posted By: Astro14
Kroil
Liquid Wrench

In that order. Never had much luck with PB'laster...



I've moved on from PB Blaster to Kroil, WD-40 penetrant, and liquid wrench- but there is a little PB blaster I keep mainly for its can. It is to help remind me not to just spray it on and start spinning. Sometimes you may need to tap with a hammer or jar it (heard online) by actually tightening it slightly.
 
Is Kroil anything like PB Blaster ? I mean does it sting your skin like PB Blaster does ? That PB Blaster has some kind of acid in it and it burns.
 
A good option for if you're doing penetrating oil for a few days in advance, Fluid Film penetrates somewhat slowly, but will stay where sprayed almost indefinitely.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Thanks Mod. This section completely slipped my mind. .....guess dlundbad's too!


Honestly, I didn't know it existed.
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Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Rather than hijacking the other penetrating oil thread, I'll just start fresh.

I've always used PB Blaster and it visually doesn't look oily a day or so after application. At that rate, I am not sure if it's actively penetrating anymore.

I've always had decent luck with PB Blaster, but is there anything out there that's better? I also wonder if mixing ATF at a ~25% ratio would help allow the penetrating oil to stay on the parts longer.


You are correct, mixing ATF and Acetone 50/50 does amazing things with a stubborn bolt. Better than anything bought. Some come close. And no special shipping requirements, like with Kano Labs AeroKroil.

That said, I shoot it with PB first. It usually works, too... Patience of heat and a short time to let the pene lube work usually does the job. That, and leverage on the bolt with a good grip. Mixing ATF and Acetone is annoying, even with my repurposed spray bottle (of Rain-X, used all the Rain-X.)
 
I had a chance to use some Liquid Wrench this weekend, BUT it was on areas that has previously be sprayed with PB Blaster a week and 2 weeks prior. As I said in my OP, my biggest complaint with the stuff is that it seems to evaporate off so who knows if the stuff was doing anything?

The bleeder screws on my truck looked pretty sad.. I was worried the rears were going to snap off inside the wheel cylinders. Everything came apart issue free. In the past, PB Blaster seemed to get the job done, but I always felt excessive friction when backing out the fastener. These were super smooth and I actually felt guilty about pitching "good" parts.

I also did my front shocks and had no worries about reusing the original bolts.
 
One thing to mention is that taking a wire brush to the areas first before spraying penetrant makes a huge difference.
 
Originally Posted By: Superflop
One thing to mention is that taking a wire brush to the areas first before spraying penetrant makes a huge difference.


Makes sense.

The less rust to work through, the better.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Kroil, Liquid Wrench and CRC Freeze-Off are the ones I have had the best luck with. On studs like pipe to manifold I use a hand held hydraulic nut splitter if possible but if not heat the nut cherry red then hit the stud with blast it canned air turned upside down then immediately shoot it with penetrant.

https://www.contorion.de/handwerkzeug/gedore-mutternsprenger-hydraulisch-sw-7-22-m4-m14-210411368


Blasting a bolt with the propane torch then immediately hitting it with Freeze-off does a great job. It's [censored] near a requirement if you ever need to replace a wheel cylinder in the rust belt and don't want to absolutely destroy the brake line.
 
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