Oil and filter for 2017 6.2L GMC, what matters?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 28, 2017
Messages
156
Location
Texas
Just picked up a 2017 6.2L Sierra. They recommend 0w20 which I can't really figure out. I live in Texas and it rarely gets below freezing where I'm at. Anywho the best rated 0w20 I can find is quaker state ultimate endurance with a psi of 124,000. Granted I don't really know what this means but two different reports have labeled it the #1. I plan on changing the oil pretty regularly so am wondering if this is the way to go and if that number is all that truly matters?


Also has anyone run microgreen filters? I just ordered one for $10 with free shipping to try it out.
 
I hv a 2017 Silverado with the same engine. From reading, the 0w20 will be more volatile than say 5w30 (Dont kill me if I'm using wrong verb) But with the DI engine it is important to keep the valves clean and the heavier grade will help with less blowby. I also bought a good catch can and after my dealer lubes are done will be going to the 5w30 ...Phoenix never sees the cold and gets massive heat in summer.
 
0W-20 is specified to meet fuel economy regulations, you could use a 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30 in texas and not know the difference, but you could void your warranty?.
Anyway the 0W-20 has been proven to not have any negative effects on engine wear.
Mobi 1, QS , Pennzoil Platinum are good choices.
 
Ok what's the point of the catch can and where did you order yours? Is it something anyone can install or you have to go to a shop?

Also did you notice a "learning mode" for yours? I'm only at 200 miles, love it, and plan to get it tuned in the future.
 
Originally Posted By: FlyingTexan
Just picked up a 2017 6.2L Sierra. They recommend 0w20 which I can't really figure out. I live in Texas and it rarely gets below freezing where I'm at. Anywho the best rated 0w20 I can find is quaker state ultimate endurance with a psi of 124,000. Granted I don't really know what this means but two different reports have labeled it the #1. I plan on changing the oil pretty regularly so am wondering if this is the way to go and if that number is all that truly matters?


Also has anyone run microgreen filters? I just ordered one for $10 with free shipping to try it out.


Ive run microgreens for several years at intervals between that of any premium filter and 2/3rds of their extended regime.

I think for a chevy AFM engine you want as clean oil stream as you can possibly get it as guys are losing lifters at 100K when a screen (shown in picts) between the intake and block plugs and starves the lifters of oil.

Id run premium filters, OCI at a sane intervals (forget the OLM) and put in a magnetic plug and or something like a filtermag.

If it were mine and I were just running passengers Id keep the 20, if I were towing a lot Id switch to 30.


 
Last edited:
Dave so you do or don't consider microgreen premium? I don't plan on doing anything past manufacturers recommendations, the filter was $10 including shipping on Amazon, so I don't get why people complain about price. I don't want to think about a $5 filter on my vehicle. Why would you skimp on that? I'll get oil sample tests done but plan on 5k changes but wanted the 2 micron filtering, if it's real. The few things I've found online have stated they are built very well so was hoping to get some info.
 
I do consider it a premium filter.

They are light on hard data but proffer lots of pieces of it, but I have no reason not to believe it works as advertised.

People look at list and complain before they understand you can get them in pairs pretty cheap.

There have been a bunch of cut and pastes. Ive cut them open. They are assembled like other high quality filters - with a secondary microdisk.

One C&P from I think goodtimes seems as though it may have been compressed to much to work properly.
 
Nice ride! Did you get the 8sp tranny as well? It takes dexron HP so if you service it make sure you get the correct fluid.

If it was mine, I would run the 0w-20 and not worry about it. You will get all different choices on here. I just feel that GM did the testing in the extreme temps up and down the scale so if they say use 0w-20 why not.

On average most don't keep a vehicle past 200k anymore. Unlike the 2006 Ford Expedition I just changed the oil on. It has 220k and been running 5w-20 since new and it runs great and is dry underneath. Which is not often the case with most of my customers with that high a mileage.

As for filters, seems the general consensus on here is Fram Ultras.
 
I would run a 5w20. There are a batch of 5w20 oils that are on the dexos1 approved list. Not really sure why anyone would be hard core about using a 0w20 except in some pretty cold conditions. Especially when 5w20 generally has a lower NOACK rating than a similar brand 0w20, and that could possibly be of benefit to the VVT and AFM stuff going on in the 6.2L.

While it is true that OEM's are recommending the 0w20 a lot, it also needs to be taken in perspective that it is the grade that they do their CAFE and EPA certs on and from what I have heard, they have to recommend the same grade of oil that they used for the cert testing.

Onto the catch can thing. They are installed on the PCV line between the port on the valve cover and the intake manifold. They separate out oil and gunk that gets thru the port before it can get into the intake. Those oily vapors can build up on intake valves and increase chances of some serious build up on them. And since the 6.2L is a direct injection, there is no fuel "washing" the buildup off the intake valves. Using a catch can is a prudent measure I would take. I use them on my personal vehicles. You can buy a few good brands, and many mediocre to lousy brands. The better ones tend to be the Elite, the RX, the Conceptual Polymer, and the Mishimoto. I use the Conceptual Polymer HE version on my Silverado and an Elite on my Cadillac.
 
I'd stick with the 0W-20, at least until the warranty is out then run whatever you want. Why spend the money on a new vehicle and risk voiding the warranty? Use what they recommend. Pennzoil Platinum and QSUD would be my top choices in oil over anything else naturally.
 
Originally Posted By: FlyingTexan
...I plan to get it tuned in the future.

Originally Posted By: jongies3
..Why spend the money on a new vehicle and risk voiding the warranty?..

Seems FlyingTexan wants more grunt. "Tuned" voids any powertrain warranty if the fit hits the shan.

Irrespective of viscosity in the sump.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top