Tighten top strut nut on car???

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Can this be done, or will the strut shaft just spin? I'm getting a light clunk with new Monroe struts; the shop that installed them can't find anything wrong (surprise), and a 2nd opinion shop said the same thing - can't find anything loose. Doing some Google research, I found a few suggestions for tightening the top nut on the strut assembly.

Thanks for any info.
 
If you don't have an impact the top of the shaft should have a way to stick a box wrench on it or a small socket so you can turn the nut without spinning the shaft. But if you do have an impact do like rooflessVW said and zap it real quick.
 
I don't use impacts on strut rods. I worry about messing up the internal valving. The ones i've done i could use a drop end wrench and and allen or drop end wrench and a small adjustable.

I use anti seize on the threads , makes it easier to get it tight.
 
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Get a proper socket that the shaft fits through the hole, and where the socket sides are flat so they can be wrenched.

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IIRC finding a socket that fit was a bit of a pain.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Zap it with an impact real quick.

Two or three Ugga Duggas should do it.


Hopefully the shaft won't spin or you have a good chance of shortening the life of the strut seal.
 
What car is this on? I've had that same "Clunking" problem on Camry's and it was the rear sway bar bushing. If you want to check the strut, you can turn the nut CCW a few turns and bounce the car a little while watching what the strut rod does. Dont let the hood hit your head! Get a friend to help. Good luck!
 
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Zap it with an impact real quick.

Two or three Ugga Duggas should do it.


Hopefully the shaft won't spin or you have a good chance of shortening the life of the strut seal.

Well you're not supposed to go full Harambe on it, just give it a good rap and make sure the nut is run down.
 
How is the rubber part itself of the mount? If the rod is moving around within the rubber part of the mount, that will make all sorts of noises.
 
I had a clunk on a new Monroe ready strut in my Corolla. Send it back and got another one. No clunk with the replacement. Took me 4 tries to get a nondefective strut assembly from Monroe.

Also had a clunk in the Rav4 changing out the sway bar links fixed it.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Zap it with an impact real quick.

Two or three Ugga Duggas should do it.


Hopefully the shaft won't spin or you have a good chance of shortening the life of the strut seal.

Well you're not supposed to go full Harambe on it, just give it a good rap and make sure the nut is run down.


This is what I'd do as well.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Get a proper socket that the shaft fits through the hole, and where the socket sides are flat so they can be wrenched.

9DD8EE10-6BC0-40F5-9EC1-03B6979BA045-138-00000000BBCFF4D0_zpsa2265c37.jpg


IIRC finding a socket that fit was a bit of a pain.

I ended up grinding flats on a 1/2" drive deep socket and using a 1/4" drive socket on the strut shaft. A 1/4" drive extension fit down through the 1/2" drive socket to hold the shaft and used an adjustable on the large socket. Worked quite well and I'll grind up another 1/2" socket to do it again on a different car when the time comes.
 
What about using a torque wrench and torque it to spec? There shouldn't be any clunk if it is in specs otherwise there is an issue with the strut.
 
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
What about using a torque wrench and torque it to spec? There shouldn't be any clunk if it is in specs otherwise there is an issue with the strut.

Because tightening it is a pain in the arse to begin with. An offset wrench for the nut and a hex key to hold the strut still. A helper might be needed. Adding a torque wrench means you'll need a special torque adapter. Most people will have to go buy or rent tools for this.

The strut mounts may have failed. What I would do is have an "ample" friend bounce the front of the car and listen for the knock.

Zapping it with an impact just runs down the nut, which should be self locking. The torque isn't amazingly critical. Usually the torque spec on a self locking nut is drag torque of the nylon plus a little extra. The torque isn't super critical, because the nut keeps itself from spinning.

If the nut is loose, it is likely the fault of a tech with a torque wrench. It may have clicked if he bumped a strut mount nut while torquing. The tool may have been set incorrectly. Who knows. Maybe it's cross threaded.

If you have an impact, zapping it ensures the nut is spun down. It may not appear loose if you try to turn it by hand.
 
Most cars I have owned had a notch that the strut only fit one way into the mount. This notch holds the tube still after the strut is on the car and has always allowed me to tighten them.
 
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
What about using a torque wrench and torque it to spec? There shouldn't be any clunk if it is in specs otherwise there is an issue with the strut.


As I recall that's what I did. The bilsteins I installed had a female hex, which made it easy to stop the shaft from rotating. I then torqued with a crowfoot.
 
Originally Posted By: mazdamonky
Most cars I have owned had a notch that the strut only fit one way into the mount. This notch holds the tube still after the strut is on the car and has always allowed me to tighten them.

Correct. Most Toyota's have keyed strut mounts, and the correct procedure is to do the final tightening of the center nut after the vehicle is lowered onto the ground.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW

Well you're not supposed to go full Harambe on it, just give it a good rap and make sure the nut is run down.


I bet Harambe would like to still wrench on things........
 
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