My Cruze is ticking its way toward 85,000 miles and running like a sewing machine. Valvoline Synpower every 5K and Seafoam in the tank every 10K is all the engine related fluid maintenance I've done, but I wouldn't mind doing a light crankcase cleaning since it's getting close to 100K. BIL did Seafoam in his TDI Beetle's oil a few weeks ago (Schaeffer's 9000 5w40) and it smoothed out a lot. However, I'm hesitant to do so with my little 1.4T that doesn't have the most resilient turbo and is a hard-working, hot running gas turbo rather than the (at least in my mind) lower performance, more tractor-like turbo diesel. Is there any danger in running the recommended amount of Seafoam in the crankcase for 500-1,000 miles before an OC? May not make any difference in performance, but idle hasn't been as smooth lately as it once was and if the process won't endanger the lubrication of the turbo then it won't hurt anything.
Seafoam in modern turbo gas engine?
- Thread starter Alex_V
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I wouldn't. 5w-30 is thin enough for that engine as it is. Anything thinner would likely risk the turbo.
I chased some idle problems in mine. In order from when I got the car as best I recall, they were: Mis-gapped plugs, loose plug in cylinder #4, dirty coil pack, dirty MAP sensor every 30k miles or so, and finally a cylinder #4 misfire when the coil pack got a hole in it and grounded out to the head.
At 85k miles, replacing the plugs, cleaning the MAF and MAP sensors with MAF/quick-dry electrical contact cleaner, and checking the condition of the coil pack would be in order. Those plugs are 100k mile plugs, so changing them 15k miles early is fine. If you've ever spilled oil during a change, it has likely pooled in cylinder #4 and might be causing some issues with the plug or coil pack.
New OEM plugs are $30 or so and take about 30 minutes to change. Gap is 0.028".
Forgot one thing: With Synpower every 5k miles, that engine should be spotless on the inside. Instead, run some Techron Concentrate or Gumout Regane through the gas to help clean up the injectors and intake valves. This engine is port-injected, so it'll make a difference.
I chased some idle problems in mine. In order from when I got the car as best I recall, they were: Mis-gapped plugs, loose plug in cylinder #4, dirty coil pack, dirty MAP sensor every 30k miles or so, and finally a cylinder #4 misfire when the coil pack got a hole in it and grounded out to the head.
At 85k miles, replacing the plugs, cleaning the MAF and MAP sensors with MAF/quick-dry electrical contact cleaner, and checking the condition of the coil pack would be in order. Those plugs are 100k mile plugs, so changing them 15k miles early is fine. If you've ever spilled oil during a change, it has likely pooled in cylinder #4 and might be causing some issues with the plug or coil pack.
New OEM plugs are $30 or so and take about 30 minutes to change. Gap is 0.028".
Forgot one thing: With Synpower every 5k miles, that engine should be spotless on the inside. Instead, run some Techron Concentrate or Gumout Regane through the gas to help clean up the injectors and intake valves. This engine is port-injected, so it'll make a difference.
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Sound wisdom, sciphi. The maintenance recommendation for the plugs is actually 60K, and they were changed then so they only have 23K on them. Part of my reason for sticking with the 5K OCI was to keep the engine clean inside and from what can be seen through the oil fill hole it is. No CEL's to indicate coil pack issues or anything, but I haven't checked the plugs for tightness, oil, etc. lately or cleaned any sensors, just air filters every 40K. I'll clean the sensors and run some other cleaners through the fuel and see what kind of good it does. Tiny areas of seepage around the VC say it'll need a new gasket at 100K so I'll have a chance to see more of the innards then.
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That's a great plan. It should correct at least some of it.
Something that makes engines run better and carb. shafts move more freely, are two I can attest to!
Originally Posted By: Alex_V
Something that makes engines run better and carb. shafts move more freely, are two I can attest to!
Yes, a carb in a 68 Camaro, lawnmower or snowblower can benefit from a Seafoam Pale oil, Naphtha, Isopropyl alcohol brew. But none of that applies to your engine anymore.
Something that makes engines run better and carb. shafts move more freely, are two I can attest to!
Yes, a carb in a 68 Camaro, lawnmower or snowblower can benefit from a Seafoam Pale oil, Naphtha, Isopropyl alcohol brew. But none of that applies to your engine anymore.
Originally Posted By: Alex_V
Something that makes engines run better and carb. shafts move more freely, are two I can attest to!
"Something"?
Something that makes engines run better and carb. shafts move more freely, are two I can attest to!
"Something"?
Don't do it. Keep running a quality synthetic. Try Techron or Gumout with Regane fuel system cleaners. I run one of them in my Cruze every oil change. How are your spark plugs?
Putting seafoam in your oil really only helps to clean [censored] out. Given that you've been pretty good with your oil changes I don't think there would be anything in there.
I'd look elsewhere. Check your spark plugs, coil packs, injectors, vacuum leaks, map/maf sensors, pcv valve, air filter, visually inspect the intake for carbon.
Edit: Now that I'm thinking about it, check the timing chain as well. If that stretches your timing will be junk
I'd look elsewhere. Check your spark plugs, coil packs, injectors, vacuum leaks, map/maf sensors, pcv valve, air filter, visually inspect the intake for carbon.
Edit: Now that I'm thinking about it, check the timing chain as well. If that stretches your timing will be junk
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JHZR2
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Seafoam in the TDI oil smoothed it out?!? Not seeing how that would be the case.
Similarly im not seeing how something like tgat will benefit op's car. I doubt seafoam survives combustion to get the hob done where needed. Instead id run a heavier dose of PEA for a few tanks, then a cleaning dose the tank before oil change. Redline SI-1 is a good choice.
Similarly im not seeing how something like tgat will benefit op's car. I doubt seafoam survives combustion to get the hob done where needed. Instead id run a heavier dose of PEA for a few tanks, then a cleaning dose the tank before oil change. Redline SI-1 is a good choice.
PU for any cleaning without risking too thin of an oil like you would be doing if you put Sea-Foam in the oil. Though as already posted if you have been doing regular oil changes there is probably not anything in there to remove.
The recommended maintenance that others have posted are spot on, but I would add also do the fuel filter at 85K miles if you have not already done it.
The recommended maintenance that others have posted are spot on, but I would add also do the fuel filter at 85K miles if you have not already done it.
Originally Posted By: Tman220
synthetic oil every 5000 miles since new? There is nothing in the crankcase to clean out! don't bother with sea foam in the crankcase, keep it in the gas if you want to use it.
Hey, don't knock it - my engine is still in one piece, with a much shorter service history than a lot of them.
Looks like I've let some maintenance creep up on me, I'll have to check up on all that.
Drove it from Birmingham to central GA today, a little over 300 miles - that finished off the tank of Shell 89 w/Seafoam (35 MPG avg - climbing hills and running 80 MPH when I wasn't sitting in traffic around Nashville) and I sought out some Chevron premium which has the computer currently reading 40.4 MPG from running 65-70 through flatter terrain.
synthetic oil every 5000 miles since new? There is nothing in the crankcase to clean out! don't bother with sea foam in the crankcase, keep it in the gas if you want to use it.
Hey, don't knock it - my engine is still in one piece, with a much shorter service history than a lot of them.
Drove it from Birmingham to central GA today, a little over 300 miles - that finished off the tank of Shell 89 w/Seafoam (35 MPG avg - climbing hills and running 80 MPH when I wasn't sitting in traffic around Nashville) and I sought out some Chevron premium which has the computer currently reading 40.4 MPG from running 65-70 through flatter terrain.
Seafoam in the gas may make you feel good, but its not strong enough of a solvent to do much. And it has pale oil in it. If you are running synthetic oil that will clean well enough and if its always had syn there is nothing to clean.
In the oil, the naptha will flash of pretty quick, the IPA really quick so you are left with pale oil. You are adding light oil( probably not synthetic) to your oil. Why turn your synthetic oil into a synthetic blend?
In the oil, the naptha will flash of pretty quick, the IPA really quick so you are left with pale oil. You are adding light oil( probably not synthetic) to your oil. Why turn your synthetic oil into a synthetic blend?
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