Electric choke power source?

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I recently installed a Weber conversion kit to replace the Aisin carb on my Toyota pickup. I have everything all installed and ready to start tuning, just have to get some other stuff done on the truck. I need to install an ignition-hot power source to the electric choke on the new Weber.

The company I bought the carb from suggests I find an alternative ignition hot source. Is there any compelling reason I can't just use the original Aisin choke power wire instead of trying to track down another power source (like the wiper power)? It seems a lot cleaner and easier to splice into the original power, and I'm not sure why they suggest otherwise.

The only thing I can see is that it doesn't look like the choke was originally a fused source, but only fused through the fusible links instead of a fuse block. Some people view that as a huge problem, but if the factory didn't think so then I'm not sure what the problem would be.
 
Originally Posted By: wheelman1991
Some electric chokes don't use the full 12 volts ...
True. The electric choke of my Mazda used AC (unrectified) power directly from the alternator, not 12VDC. Others must've done the same.
 
If you do rewire this at least use its fuse for only its circuit, so it blowing a fuse won't leave you stranded.

I would go with the stock wiring and see how it works.
 
Originally Posted By: mazdamonky
I have mine powered off of my ignition coil. It works just as it should.


This is fine as long you add an in line fuse to the choke. Otherwise, the choke will kill engine power if it goes out.
 
Originally Posted By: CR94
Originally Posted By: wheelman1991
Some electric chokes don't use the full 12 volts ...
True. The electric choke of my Mazda used AC (unrectified) power directly from the alternator, not 12VDC. Others must've done the same.


I didn't think of this, but I am pretty sure it's just 12V. The circuit does feed directly off the voltage regulator/Alt, but I don't remember how. The wiring diagram was a little confusing there. Easy enough to check it with a meter.

Originally Posted By: eljefino
If you do rewire this at least use its fuse for only its circuit, so it blowing a fuse won't leave you stranded.

I would go with the stock wiring and see how it works.


OK, I can add a fuse. The ones I saw at the parts store the other day were way too big for what I need, so I guess I will have to dig a little. It seems like I have to order most of the stuff for this truck anymore anyway, but I'd really like to get it back on the road this weekend.
 
If it's wired to a 12VDC circuit that's always on when the ignition is on, and if you ever leave the ignition switch ON with the engine not running, that would "fool" the choke bimetal into backing off before the engine is correspondingly warm. That's likely one reason some used AC power from the alternator, besides battery drain in the same circumstance.
 
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