Which oil/fuel filter?

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Hey guys,

A lot of this was mentioned... however i need some clarity.

Again as a reminder... I am running a 1JZ-GTE engine (2.5L turbo) in a toyota crown athlete.

Already in terms of oil i got the 0w 40 Castrol Edge A3/B4 group 4 POA.

I was asking the guys in store about a genuine toyota filter for my car... or as someone here mentioned Ryco Syntec.

The guy here said the K&N HP 1002 part is a high flow filter and will work better than either the ryco or the genuine toyota filter.

My question was which one will filter better without being clogged up.

I mean... if filter holds back the rubbish n after it clogs up goes through the bypass valve (like a genuine filter) then isnt that essentially meaning its not filtering anymore since its bypassing it which means all the metal particles etc will all go back in to the engine through the bypass?

K&n HP 1002 is high flow, but that sounds like 'we dont filter much, most stuff goes through hence it can flow higher'.

So some stuff to me just doesnt make sense....

I spent the time to buy a top oil... i didnt wanna screw the car up by putting some rubbish filter on that either restricts oil flow too much or doesnt filter at all.

I bought the K&N but i can always take it back if im better off with either a ryco or genuine one.

Also what petrol filter would be good for this engine?
 
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Ahh! Not the Silver air can of death again.

I did not know one of the Casteroil Hedges was now a group 4 FS, I thought they were all just fried and filtered dinosaur base oils.
 
Defiantly castrol edge. it is the best. period.

What is wrong with the best puralator ?

if it worries you change your filter every 60-90 days...

don't over tighten it.. easy to do...
 
Originally Posted By: jarad248
Defiantly castrol edge. it is the best. period.

What is wrong with the best puralator ?

if it worries you change your filter every 60-90 days...

don't over tighten it.. easy to do...


I sure don't worry about Tearolator filters!

Mine Gott, why would you change a car's oil filter every few months, they do cost money even in the bad old USA.

My hands are fully calibrated and have never over torqued anything, other than a few ginger beers necks (Cockney slang for engineer, or a friendly male that does not read his Watchtower mag).

@OP, OEM, OEM or even OEM filters. If you really can't afford them, then Mann or Bosch made in Germany or the US only.
Don't buy anything from Fleabay or Hamason, unless you buy from a real good fully cerified oil & filters stealer that has a 100% rating for good stuff (Including oil that smokes) AND will give you more money back than you paid for the bargain!
 
Hi Wreckage,

Good to see you back. Yes the Castrol Edge 0W40 A3/B4 is a great oil choice. Last I spoke to the Castrol techs on they phone, they told me it was PAO based. Look at it's Pour Point -60 C, here is it's PDS (Oz Edge 0W40 A3/B4 pdf)

So as for filters, I personally would go for either OEM Toyota or the Ryco Syntec (BITOG Ryco Syntec thread)

Ryco is a good Australian filter, and well respected. But their new synthetic ones are rated to last about 50% longer, filter better, and offer better flow. But they are more expensive, almost double the price of a standard Ryco filter.
 
K&N is a racing filter, optimized for flow over filtration efficiency on the track.

Neither the Toyota or Ryco would restrict too much. Toyota filters are not that high in efficiency ratings and so long as your engine is clean, it has been engineered to easily attain the specified oil change interval. A synthetic filter can achieve high efficiency with good flow but how good depends on the quality of the media.

So choose whatever makes you feel better. Toyota with an efficiency that Toyota engineers figured was good enough, most likely with quality construction, definitely able to last the oci and probably cheaper. Or Ryco which should but may not have higher efficiency than Toyota, and which can be believed to have 50%, if not more capacity.
 
So should I be returning this K&N Filter I bought? HP 1002... or wouldn't worry about it and just use it?

Trying to read as much as I could... as you know, everything becomes 'scientifically' anal, which most of it makes no sense to me, and at the end of the day, I still see people driving cars from 1932 and they still work.

So sometimes I think "yeah sure on paper one is better than the other" but out of either you will get 500,000+ km and neither will run the engine dry...

Which in end means reality is, there all the same and the rest is just for people who enjoy analysing stuff irrelevant.

Well thats how it sometimes feels anyway.

But as usual I like to check everything anyway because "what if it wasn't just straight cut like that".

Essentially what Im getting is:

Filtering the oil to be clean = Important.
Flow of oil = Important.

Filter everything 100% but have poor flow due to the fact it 'filters so well' would promote bad engine wear and thus inferior oil filter.

On the other hand, flow extremely well (big holes to pass through) would keep things lubricated but it would get particles or rubbish flowing through engine which can also cause problems/wear.

So I'm guessing the filtration needs to be max oil flow while the filtration of particles needs only be 'good enough' rather than a 'theoretical' better... as said if an engine wont care whether its 20 or 30 microns (in the long scheme of things both will last out 500,000 + km) then the 'flow' is more important than the theoretical 'cleaning' if you will.

Put in another way... if 20 or 30microns 'filtering' wont change overall longevity of engine... then no sense restricting oil flow to get 'cleaner' as 'cleaner' is not going to be any better while more flow will always be better. Essentially sacrificing something useful for something irrelevant.

Anyway...


The Ryco Syntec compare to this K&N HP I got... should I take it back/change it, not worth the time/fuel to do it etc ?

Otherwise....

What about Petrol filter?

And Hey SR5!

Been busy with music!
 
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Hi Mate,

What can I say, everything is a compromise between filter and flow, you are mostly selling one to buy the other, when you want lots of both. I like the balance point of the Ryco Syntec filters. The K&N are very flow orientated from what I hear. But lots of people run them everyday without problem.

Me ? I would just run the K&N and see what it's like, pick up a SynTec for the next time, and then compare the two. My car starts a bit quieter when I swapped from a Repco to a Cooper oil filter. Do they make a SynTec filter for your car ?

As for petrol filter, same as before, either OEM Toyota or Ryco.

You know without a series of expensive lab tests that would cost more than the car, most of this is just a mixture of some common sense and some guess work. It's not so important, and near impossible, to make the perfect right decision. The name of the game is not to make a stupid wrong decision.

Your doing OK, no obvious wrong decisions, so don't sweat it. If you enjoy splitting oil and filter hairs, stick around. But if it's not fun, then buy something good that should do the job then relax and go back to enjoying your music. It's engineering, there is no one perfect answer, but there are many good solutions.

BTW the K&N filter I would avoid is their air filter. That is the important filter on a car, as it keeps the dirt out. Here you don't want a high flow filter on a street car. It's OK for race teams that rebuild an engine at the end of a race. But I like a little more dirt protection for my daily drive. (And before you ask: OEM or Ryco)

No I don't own stock in Ryco, just the filter selection here is limited and sometimes on the cheap & nasty side, or the imported & over priced side. Again I like the Ryco balance point of being a quality but affordable local product.
 
Oil filter restriction and flow is only realized if the oil pump is in pressure relief - otherwise, when the pump in not in relief all oil leaving the pump will go through the filter & engine. If you plan on racing and revving to near red line a lot, then get a free flowing oil filter. Most anything with full synthetic media will flow better than a cellulose or blend media. Most full synthetic filters also are very efficient, so you don't have to sacrifice flow for filtration because you can achieve both with the right oil filter.
 
Thanks ZeeOSix, you're good at filters.

I agree how a good synthetic filter can give you both flow and filter efficiency. You just have to spend a bit more and pay for it.
 
Thanks SR5 ... I always like to show this graph of delta-p vs flow. This is for a medium sized PureOne which actually flow very well, mostly due to a lot of media area - test was actually done by Purolator in their lab. A full synthetic filter will flow just as good or better. This was with 5W-30 oil at 200 deg F.

Most engines will not flow more than 10~12 GPM at pump relief ... so a good flowing oil filter will only have a max of 4~5 PSI of delta-p across it when the oil is at full operating temperature. This is for a new filter, and of course as it loads up the delta-p curve will shift upwards.

PureOneflowdata.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Wreckage
Hey guys,

A lot of this was mentioned... however i need some clarity.

Again as a reminder... I am running a 1JZ-GTE engine (2.5L turbo) in a toyota crown athlete.

Already in terms of oil i got the 0w 40 Castrol Edge A3/B4 group 4 POA.

I was asking the guys in store about a genuine toyota filter for my car... or as someone here mentioned Ryco Syntec.

The guy here said the K&N HP 1002 part is a high flow filter and will work better than either the ryco or the genuine toyota filter.

My question was which one will filter better without being clogged up.

I mean... if filter holds back the rubbish n after it clogs up goes through the bypass valve (like a genuine filter) then isnt that essentially meaning its not filtering anymore since its bypassing it which means all the metal particles etc will all go back in to the engine through the bypass?

K&n HP 1002 is high flow, but that sounds like 'we dont filter much, most stuff goes through hence it can flow higher'.

So some stuff to me just doesnt make sense....

I spent the time to buy a top oil... i didnt wanna screw the car up by putting some rubbish filter on that either restricts oil flow too much or doesnt filter at all.

I bought the K&N but i can always take it back if im better off with either a ryco or genuine one.

Also what petrol filter would be good for this engine?





Why is every sentence separated and double-spaced? Makes it so difficult to read.
Castrol Edge oil and K&N filters are top-tier products. No reason to overthink it, if money is not the deciding factor.
 
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Thanks for that.

When I went store and asked for Syntec...

All I got was "Ryco 418" or something rather... Z148, Z481, (dont even remember i think there was 4 numbers and 4 1 and 8 were in it, not sure which order).

That would be the one that is the factory OEM equivalent as is the K&N HP 1002.

Syntec in that?

In regards to air filters... I thought K&N made the best for that... I mean all the muscle car guys etc run that round Red one on their show cars... ? Unless those are different to whats on these newer cars.
 
I also remembered one other thing...

Someone in autobarn told me a friend of his who races uses some drift whatever oil filter that has magnets inside to keep the oil clean and that guy wont use anything else ever again, says its the best thing hes ever put on his car... ?

(I double posted so if you missed the last post on last page go there)
 
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Racing is about winning the race first and protecting the car second. That's real racing, with a team, sponsorship, and prize money. The mechanic will rebuild the car after each race. I remember the old Ducati 900 SS back in the day only had some wire mesh over the air intake to stop small rocks getting in and that was it. You would be lucky to last a year riding around the streets like that, but you had good air flow and therefore could make a bit more power.

Yes K&N air filters are used by racers, and they are much more protective than a bit of wire mesh. But they are still high flow and low filter efficiency filters. Good if that is what you want. They are also used on street show cars because racers use then and they look cool. It's more of a fashion choice, than an engineering decision.

I've heard of drift oil filters with the magnet, sounds way over priced to me. Some people here put magnets on the outside of their filter, cheaper and you are not throwing a magnet in the bin every filter change. Throwing a magnet in the bin every oil change is bad for the environment, especially rare earth magnets.

The motor car fashion industry want to sell you all these bits and bobs, because they want your money.

I would stick to Castrol Edge oil, Valvoline coolant, and Ryco or OEM filters. Job done.

I will check my Ryco catalogue to see if they make a SynTec filter for you, otherwise the standard Ryco will be fine, just change it every 10,000KM instead of every 15,000KM.
 
Originally Posted By: Wreckage
In regards to air filters... I thought K&N made the best for that... I mean all the muscle car guys etc run that round Red one on their show cars... ? Unless those are different to whats on these newer cars.


K&N air filters are less efficient than most paper air filters. Guys run K&N air filters because it might give them a couple of more HP at full throttle. IMO, not worth giving up filtering efficiency. I stopped using K&N type air filters a long time ago.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Wreckage
In regards to air filters... I thought K&N made the best for that... I mean all the muscle car guys etc run that round Red one on their show cars... ? Unless those are different to whats on these newer cars.


K&N air filters are less efficient than most paper air filters. Guys run K&N air filters because it might give them a couple of more HP at full throttle. IMO, not worth giving up filtering efficiency. I stopped using K&N type air filters a long time ago.


Most modern vehicles have a very sensitive MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor and they have a very nasty habit of failing (Tends to result in limp home mode and a CEL warning) when the elements get coated in K&N filter oil,
as even tiny traces of oil will attract dirt.
That sensor can sometimes be cleaned with a special MAF or intake cleaner spray (CRC make a cheap one). If you don't have one then a good contact cleaner spray will do. Don't use a cheap contact cleaner, as they are often contaminated with a type of varnish that will also make the sensor elements sticky.

If you buy OEM oil filters, one advantage is that if your engine is damage by a faulty unit, you might well be able to get some kind of compensation, but if you buy cheap aftermarket filters and one fails, it's just going to be bad luck.
 
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Are K&N Still made by Champion?

I think I read somewhere searching on google after 2014 they also are no longer made in the USA... ?

If that is the case... what can we get down here that still is made there (if anything)?
 
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